Best brand track and a couple other questions

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Necrosaro420

Member
Hey All, I used to build (horribly I might add) a table when I was younger for my trains. Im getting back into it and going to build on a 4x6 layout with HO scale. I know its a small layout but I dont have alot of room, and I can find HO stuff alot easier around here locally than N. I have a couple of questions.

What is the best brand of track to use and track connectors?

Could you point me in the direction for information on how you can control multiple engines on the same track at different speeds/times etc?

A good resource on building mountain and water scenes?

And finally, is there any good sites out there have nice track layout designs that would work on a 4 x 6 table?
Thanks!
 
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Atlas has a good book on track plans for small to larger sized layouts. If anything though, they tend to try and use almost every available inch to lay track. Understandable as they sell track and switches and everything else to go with it. You could find one you like and simplify it with a bit less track if you want. At the very least each plan gives out a list of what switches and track is needed. Their track and turnouts are good in both code 100 rail and code 83 rail. http://www.atlasrr.com/

On my railroad I used both Atlas and Peco for both flex track and turnouts. The track was mostly laid down around 30 years ago. For the last year or more I've had to replace every piece of Peco flex track on curves due to the plastic tie strips splitting or the rail holding molded plastic "spikes" breaking. Radius in these areas is 30" or greater. In all fairness to Peco the turnouts have held up well with no problems. The Atlas flex track of the same age is still in perfect condition so the replacements for the Peco sections I have relaid with Atlas. Radius on the Atlas flex track is as tight as 22" in some places with no problems as I said.

Hope this is of some help for you.
 
atlas track, peco switches in code 83 is what I would run if i could do it over again, currently all atlas code 100
 
Code 83 is closer to scale rail height. Code 100 was the original HO scale track which was created for the older equipment with deep flanges.

If the Code 100 rail is life sized, it would be about a foot tall.
 
Code 83 track is the direction that most of HO has gone towards. You will find a greater variety of track pieces amongst the various companies far easier than Code 100. Code 83 also appears more realistically sized and detailed than regular Code 100. If you have old equipment with plastic wheelsets, you may want to start upgrading them to metal wheelsets (I like Intermountain's wheelsets).

As for running multiple engines at once, you're talking about DCC. The starter system I use is the Digitrax Zephyr. Do some more reading around here to get an idea, and a list of questions together.
 
Gotcha, so I assume 83 is the way to go!

What im wanting to do is build up the tracks and have sort of a canyon in the middle with a town etc. To build this up, I assume use some sort of styrofoam? Or I was at Home Depot today, and they have 4x8 sheets of foam insulation....does that stuff work as well?
 
I haven't yet but I plan to us styrofoam for rolling hills.
I'll use it for the basic design then go from there to get the details.
 


The insulation is very good, that is what I recommend. Doing my first layout also, but have been doing war-gaming/modeling for years, and insulation foam is always what is recommended, very easy to work with, and minimal mess.
 
Foam can make great scenery but make sure though that you have a solid foundation to lay the track on. I tried to lay track directly on styrofoam on my last attempt at a layout, the result being that I just finished tearing everything out to start over. Use some 1/4" or thicker plywood cut out to your track plan, then build up around it with the foam. (Also if you're going to be working with a lot of foam, get a hot-wire type foam cutter, it'll save you a lot of sawing and foam dust.)

I used Elmers, which worked pretty well, but took forever to dry.
 
The code designation for track refers to the height of the rail in thousandths of an inch. Code 83 is .083", or 83/1000th's of an inch, code 100 is .100", code 70 is .070", and so on.
 
I read alot about "2 degree grade" "3 degree grade" etc for hills/track. How do you measure this to determine with degree grade it is? Is there an instrument you can get?
 
Necrosaro420 said:
I read alot about "2 degree grade" "3 degree grade" etc for hills/track. How do you measure this to determine with degree grade it is? Is there an instrument you can get?
Click to expand...

Yes, a tape measure and a calculator.

If you are in the US, you are probably referring to a 2 per cent grade or a 3 per cent grade. Per cent grade is s simple formula: rise divided by run. In other words, if you have a 100" distance between two points and the track rises 2 inches in that 100", it's a 2% grade.

[In soem countries, folks to refer to grades as degrees, that's a different calculation]

Most folks find 2.5% grades or less work well. You can go higher, but it begins to significantly impact performance of the trains. You also need a couple of feet at each end of the grade at the point where the grade changes to allow for a smooth transition from level to grade or between different grade.

Many newcomers create grades that are too steep and then must rebuild or make other modifications.

You have so many basic questions that you would probably be well-advised to get a book that introduces newcomers to the hobby, such as Kalmbach's Basic Model Railroading: Getting Started in the Hobby (HO oriented) or N Scale Railroading: Getting Started in the Hobby, Second Edition

For a 4X6 area in HO, interesting track plans are found on the Gateway NMRA's layout pages.

Best of luck
 
Depending on the cars you intend to run, I would use Code 100 if there was any chance of running older, pre-RP25, cars and engines, or even cars with Talgo trucks. The pizza cutter flanges do not track well on Code 83, nor do they pass through the frogs on the switches. Code 83, Code 70, and Code 55 are for those that tend to focus on more realism. Personally, I want my trains to run flawlessly around the layout. With the smaller profiles of rail problems can arise. Not that they always do, or are prominent, but they can happen. Talgo trucks have the coupler mounted to the truck and can be pulled over the rail easily.

So many state that they use such and such a rail, they do not consider the future or probabilities of what may be run on a layout in times ahead. If you want almost bullet-proof operation, Code 100(also cheaper). If you are somewhat of a rivet counter, use the smaller profiles. As I said, I don't care what the rail looks like as far as realism. A good ballast job and a bit of scenic attention can make even Code 100 look different. I want my trains, some engines and cars well over 50 years old, to run and not have problems.

Peco switches are fine and a good quality switch, but I prefer Shinohara or Walthers/Shinohara. Actually better quality than Peco. The Walthers /Shinohara are a tad easier on the pocketbook.

Atlas switches have come a long way, in quality, since their problems a few years ago. Still, some frogs need to be deepened and widened at times. But, they are MUCH better than 7-10 years ago when they had Quality Control issues. But, the damage was done. And their reputation tarnished. And now many, except the budget minded, shy away from them. I used them for one of our Christmas layouts. They are working fine with no modification or repair. So, if you are on a budget, I wouldn't hesitate using them. And if they are causing a problem, it's an easy fix. use a flat file to deepen or widen the problem area.

For my scenic projects, I use foam board, ceiling tile, and plaster over a matrix of cardboard and plaster cloth. My layout is modular and most modules are no longer than 48" long and, at most, 96" long. Most are 24" deep with some being as much as 36" to facilitate structures and scenery.

Bob
 
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