Appalachian Weathering and Modelworks Car #4-A Railbox from start to finish.
- Thread starter uspscsx
- Start date
I know, I know...
This has turned dead, I know. I cannot post anything more until I receive my shipment from Walthers. I have decided to detail it a bit, with air hoses and coupler cut bars. And, of course, metal wheelsets. Quick question: Any other detailing I'm lacking? Athearn RTR's already have wire grabs.
This has turned dead, I know. I cannot post anything more until I receive my shipment from Walthers. I have decided to detail it a bit, with air hoses and coupler cut bars. And, of course, metal wheelsets. Quick question: Any other detailing I'm lacking? Athearn RTR's already have wire grabs.
RCH
Been Nothin' Since Frisco
You could always dress up the tack boards. That's a detail most people seem to leave "factory painted" when in reality, they don't stay that way long, if they were ever painted that way. Usually they are little rectangles of unpainted, untreated plywood that weather very quickly and get replaced every so often. Also, the remnants of bad order tags could be "tacked" onto them. I know, it's a microscopic detail, but the presence of those little microscopic details often implies detail elsewhere.
Brake lines could be added, but if you can't see them from the vantage point of an HO scale person standing trackside (i.e., the side sill blocks their view), then I wouldn't bother with them.
I would also recommend you study door tracks up close and personal, if you have the opportunity. They aren't as "solid" as they look on the models. And, when you're dealing with plug doors, if the vertical locking bars aren't molded separately, try shadow painting them. It really makes a difference. In fact, that's really the difference between a MM car and most of the others - take a closer look and see. And it points to the true goal of what weatherers are after in our craft: creating the illusion of the weathered prototype. Use "tricks" to create the illusion of detail and you might be surprised how many blanks your imagination can fill in.
Brake lines could be added, but if you can't see them from the vantage point of an HO scale person standing trackside (i.e., the side sill blocks their view), then I wouldn't bother with them.
I would also recommend you study door tracks up close and personal, if you have the opportunity. They aren't as "solid" as they look on the models. And, when you're dealing with plug doors, if the vertical locking bars aren't molded separately, try shadow painting them. It really makes a difference. In fact, that's really the difference between a MM car and most of the others - take a closer look and see. And it points to the true goal of what weatherers are after in our craft: creating the illusion of the weathered prototype. Use "tricks" to create the illusion of detail and you might be surprised how many blanks your imagination can fill in.
STEP 5: Get dirty in nooks and crannys(ies?); Rust areas desired.
This is the last shot I got before self-destruction of the stirrups. I will get a better shot in the A.M.
It was mentioned that grime collected in cracks and crevices first. I hadn't thought about that, so I took my brush, dipped it in brown chalk, and worked it around the cracks. I then took an artist crayon and highlighted around every nook and cranny. That got the dirty brown outta the way...
Next was the rust. All I did was around the edges and random dings here and there. This was done by taking my cosmetic sponge, dipping it in hairspray(Pump type), into the chalk, and going around the edges. The dings were achieved by taking the edge of the cosmetic sponge and dabbing it where it was wanted.
As I say, there is usually a right way, a wrong way, and my way. Mine's usually in the middle
.
I also did the roof, but I'll get those shots and a description tomorrow.
I apologize about the photos. It makes it look too dark in some areas and too light in others.
This is the last shot I got before self-destruction of the stirrups. I will get a better shot in the A.M.
It was mentioned that grime collected in cracks and crevices first. I hadn't thought about that, so I took my brush, dipped it in brown chalk, and worked it around the cracks. I then took an artist crayon and highlighted around every nook and cranny. That got the dirty brown outta the way...
Next was the rust. All I did was around the edges and random dings here and there. This was done by taking my cosmetic sponge, dipping it in hairspray(Pump type), into the chalk, and going around the edges. The dings were achieved by taking the edge of the cosmetic sponge and dabbing it where it was wanted.
As I say, there is usually a right way, a wrong way, and my way. Mine's usually in the middle
.I also did the roof, but I'll get those shots and a description tomorrow.
I apologize about the photos. It makes it look too dark in some areas and too light in others.
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STEP 6: Roof-roof!
Yes indeed folks, progress is picking up. A late cancellation of a project a customer was wanting me to do has allowed me extra time. This thing should be done in a jiffy! I just need to get that darn order in with Walthers. Will do tonight.
The roof...I kinda, sorta, maybe...copied Mellow-Mike a litttttttle bit. I took my cosmetic sponge(wet with hairspray, then dipped in brown chalk) and dabbed it along the point on the roof. I then simulated where rust had formed from running water down the side. Then, extensive rust was added on the edges. Dullcote finished it off. THAT'S IT! It was simple, and only required a steady hand.
The roof in my opinion turned out exceptionally well. I took several FILM photos in Nashville from the balcony(and my room) of The Union Station Hotel in Nashville. A lot of roofs look similar to this one. Compare it to Mellow-Mike's:
http://www.mellowmike.com/FR8_Cars/RBOX_white1.html
His...(I cannot get it to become a photo??? )
Mine.
My rust is more extensive, but hey, it is after all, a RAILBOX!!!
Enjoy.
Yes indeed folks, progress is picking up. A late cancellation of a project a customer was wanting me to do has allowed me extra time. This thing should be done in a jiffy! I just need to get that darn order in with Walthers. Will do tonight.
The roof...I kinda, sorta, maybe...copied Mellow-Mike a litttttttle bit. I took my cosmetic sponge(wet with hairspray, then dipped in brown chalk) and dabbed it along the point on the roof. I then simulated where rust had formed from running water down the side. Then, extensive rust was added on the edges. Dullcote finished it off. THAT'S IT! It was simple, and only required a steady hand.
The roof in my opinion turned out exceptionally well. I took several FILM photos in Nashville from the balcony(and my room) of The Union Station Hotel in Nashville. A lot of roofs look similar to this one. Compare it to Mellow-Mike's:
http://www.mellowmike.com/FR8_Cars/RBOX_white1.html
His...(I cannot get it to become a photo???
)Mine.
My rust is more extensive, but hey, it is after all, a RAILBOX!!!
Enjoy.
Well...I got to searching...
...My prototype photos, and I...I...I ended up redoing the roof. I noticed a lot of the roofs in photos in my collection were rustier than the original version of mine...So, I re-rusted it, so to speak. I used the same methods, etc. It turned out like this:
...My prototype photos, and I...I...I ended up redoing the roof. I noticed a lot of the roofs in photos in my collection were rustier than the original version of mine...So, I re-rusted it, so to speak. I used the same methods, etc. It turned out like this:
