Appalachian Weathering and Modelworks Car #4-A Railbox from start to finish.

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uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
-STEP 1: Take "before" shots of car and post the thread.
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Following MrKluke's example on The Railwire, I have decided to start my own "From Start to Finish" thread. The subject of interest is an HO Scale Athearn Ready-To-Roll PS 5277 Box Car in Railbox paint. Road number 42516. Here is a "before" shot of the side and roof.

PA131267.png


PA131268.png
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
Step 2

STEP 2: Scrape away lettering with an Xacto. Also, break two stirrups and then have to glue them back. Oh wait, that's not part of the plan!:mad:
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Yes indeed. I broke two of the stirrups, and then glued them back. It doesn't look half-bad if you ask me. But nobody's asking me, so I'll be quiet.:p

This step took me about an hour for one side. I scraped away most of the lettering with my trusty Xacto. It gives it the look of faded paint. Also, if you don't believe that, I saw a Railbox on Friday that looks very similar to this. Unfortunately, Mr. Camera's batteries were dead. I also saw a Railbox on Fallen Flags that had lettering very, very close to this as well. Anyway, I scraped the lettering away. Then, using my trusty, stiff 79 cent Loew-Cornell brush, I used my trusty Loew-Cornell Chalks (Red and Blue) and gave the Railbox Arrows an even more faded look. Streaking, that's what they call it!:rolleyes: The areas that aren't scraped away (I.E. Data, etc.) are going to be "patched." The photo is below...sorry about the size, but 50% from it's original just doesn't show the detail.

PA131270.png

[Yeah, I used CD cases to hold it up to prevent further breakage of the stirrups:rolleyes:]

That's all for the night. More to come!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
D

dthurman

Guest
Would a sanding stick work as opposed to an Xacto knife? Remember I do N, so a scratch in N is like a gorge (sp) in a valley. I just bought those new sanding sticks that have a belt that wraps around a tool. Hmm you are giving me ideas here.
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
dthurman said:
Would a sanding stick work as opposed to an Xacto knife? Remember I do N, so a scratch in N is like a gorge (sp) in a valley. I just bought those new sanding sticks that have a belt that wraps around a tool. Hmm you are giving me ideas here.
Hmm..Good idea...I've always used an Xacto to "fade" lettering. Except on early Athearns, there I use an eraser.
 

CBCNSfan

Registered Member
Staff member
OK! quit stalling :D I'm with you this far. The lettering is looking real enough to me. A couple of newbie questions. When using the x-acto blade, are you using the point or the cutting edge of the blade, or a combination of both?
The sanding stick sounds pretty good however when I try sandpaper (emery cloth) on lettering it seems like it takes forever to remove any of it. To me it seemed labour intensive. do you have a method you use with the sandpaper? Maybe the grade of grit I use is too light? Erasers didn't work very good for me, maybe one of those hard grey colored ones might, I can't recall trying one. Now I just strip paint lettering and all, effective but not the best. Now I haven't weathered any cars so they still have their shiny new paint, most I've done is a coat of Dull Coat. Well I'l wait for the next posts. Good thread thanks
Willis
 
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dthurman

Guest
CBCNSfan said:
OK! quit stalling :D I'm with you this far. The lettering is looking real enough to me. A couple of newbie questions. When using the x-acto blade, are you using the point or the cutting edge of the blade, or a combination of both?
The sanding stick sounds pretty good however when I try sandpaper (emery cloth) on lettering it seems like it takes forever to remove any of it. To me it seemed labour intensive. do you have a method you use with the sandpaper? Maybe the grade of grit I use is too light? Erasers didn't work very good for me, maybe one of those hard grey colored ones might, I can't recall trying one. Now I just strip paint lettering and all, effective but not the best. Now I haven't weathered any cars so they still have their shiny new paint, most I've done is a coat of Dull Coat. Well I'l wait for the next posts. Good thread thanks
Willis
Willis

I haven't tried it yet, I bought some of these the other day and think they may have a value, the guys at modeltrainsweathered.com recommened I use sandpaper to make fixes and changes, figured it would work for fading or paint loss on letters.

Here is what I bought, they come in different grits.




Here is their site: Excel Hobby Blades
 

CBCNSfan

Registered Member
Staff member
OH! K! I can't recall seeing one of those anywhere, maybe just maybe, I can buckshey one of those it looks promising. I was just using folded sandpaper and pressure with my finger. That tool and it's leverage puts a whole new perspective into view. Thanks for the photo, I'll try something, soon as it quietens down around here. :D

Willis
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
Sorry guys, haven't gotten anything done today. I will do plenty tomorrow, though. I had to finish up my Wisconsin Central hopper for eBay.

More tomorrow.
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
CBCNSfan said:
OK! quit stalling :D I'm with you this far. The lettering is looking real enough to me. A couple of newbie questions. When using the x-acto blade, are you using the point or the cutting edge of the blade, or a combination of both?
The sanding stick sounds pretty good however when I try sandpaper (emery cloth) on lettering it seems like it takes forever to remove any of it. To me it seemed labour intensive. do you have a method you use with the sandpaper? Maybe the grade of grit I use is too light? Erasers didn't work very good for me, maybe one of those hard grey colored ones might, I can't recall trying one. Now I just strip paint lettering and all, effective but not the best. Now I haven't weathered any cars so they still have their shiny new paint, most I've done is a coat of Dull Coat. Well I'l wait for the next posts. Good thread thanks
Willis
I use the point. I scrape lightly up and down, then in circles.
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
STEP 3: Apply dull yellow chalk to side A of Railbox. Seal with Dullcote afterwards.

This step required to talent whatsoever. Mellow-Mike says my teaching credentials are revoked...but who says he has to know about this...:cool:;)

All I did was scrape, with an Xacto, my pastel chalk onto a paper towel. I spread it all over the side, except the door. I then added a layer of Dullcote. Compare the color now with the color of it "before." Sure beats the heck out of a shiny, neon yellow!

(I'll buff out those scratches, cap'n!;))

Matt
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
Well, the dulled yellow of the Railbox was virtually useless. The Railbox is now a variation of either a golden brown or a shade of dull yellow showing through. Looks great in my opinion...of course I AM the weatherer;). I'll upload a picture tomorrow.
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
Oh, and the scratches from "fading" the logo...seem to have disappeared. Of course, that's a good thing! :)
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
STEP 4: Brush on brown chalk to give the Railbox a golden-brown appearance.

This step involved taking my stiff brush, dipping it into my brown chalk container, and brushing in an up-down motion on the side of the Railbox. That's basically it. I sealed with Dullcote afterwards.

PA201313.jpg


The golden-brown color is common to Railboxes. Railboxes such as the below are examples.
http://rr-fallenflags.org/rbox/rbox43733amg.jpg
http://rr-fallenflags.org/rbox/rbox43887atz.jpg
http://rr-fallenflags.org/rbox/rbox42852amg.jpg

NEXT UP: Rust around the edges.
 
D

dthurman

Guest
Not to shabby Matt. I hereby reinstate your weathering license. In fact it is non-revokable from this day forward ;)
 

uspscsx

The Name's Really Matt...
dthurman said:
Not to shabby Matt. I hereby reinstate your weathering license. In fact it is non-revokable from this day forward ;)
:D Hehe. Thanks for the laugh and the comment.
 




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