Appalachian Weathering and Modelworks Car #4-A Railbox from start to finish.

[uspscsx]

-STEP 1: Take "before" shots of car and post the thread.
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Following MrKluke's example on The Railwire, I have decided to start my own "From Start to Finish" thread. The subject of interest is an HO Scale Athearn Ready-To-Roll PS 5277 Box Car in Railbox paint. Road number 42516. Here is a "before" shot of the side and roof.

 

[uspscsx]

Step 2

STEP 2: Scrape away lettering with an Xacto. Also, break two stirrups and then have to glue them back. Oh wait, that's not part of the plan!
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Yes indeed. I broke two of the stirrups, and then glued them back. It doesn't look half-bad if you ask me. But nobody's asking me, so I'll be quiet.

This step took me about an hour for one side. I scraped away most of the lettering with my trusty Xacto. It gives it the look of faded paint. Also, if you don't believe that, I saw a Railbox on Friday that looks very similar to this. Unfortunately, Mr. Camera's batteries were dead. I also saw a Railbox on Fallen Flags that had lettering very, very close to this as well. Anyway, I scraped the lettering away. Then, using my trusty, stiff 79 cent Loew-Cornell brush, I used my trusty Loew-Cornell Chalks (Red and Blue) and gave the Railbox Arrows an even more faded look. Streaking, that's what they call it! The areas that aren't scraped away (I.E. Data, etc.) are going to be "patched." The photo is below...sorry about the size, but 50% from it's original just doesn't show the detail.

[Yeah, I used CD cases to hold it up to prevent further breakage of the stirrups]

That's all for the night. More to come!

 

[uspscsx]

Darn it, the lighting is bad. Well, in my next step, you'll see it in better light.

 

[dthurman]

Would a sanding stick work as opposed to an Xacto knife? Remember I do N, so a scratch in N is like a gorge (sp) in a valley. I just bought those new sanding sticks that have a belt that wraps around a tool. Hmm you are giving me ideas here.

 

[uspscsx]

Would a sanding stick work as opposed to an Xacto knife? Remember I do N, so a scratch in N is like a gorge (sp) in a valley. I just bought those new sanding sticks that have a belt that wraps around a tool. Hmm you are giving me ideas here.

Hmm..Good idea...I've always used an Xacto to "fade" lettering. Except on early Athearns, there I use an eraser.

 

[CBCNSfan]

OK! quit stalling I'm with you this far. The lettering is looking real enough to me. A couple of newbie questions. When using the x-acto blade, are you using the point or the cutting edge of the blade, or a combination of both?
The sanding stick sounds pretty good however when I try sandpaper (emery cloth) on lettering it seems like it takes forever to remove any of it. To me it seemed labour intensive. do you have a method you use with the sandpaper? Maybe the grade of grit I use is too light? Erasers didn't work very good for me, maybe one of those hard grey colored ones might, I can't recall trying one. Now I just strip paint lettering and all, effective but not the best. Now I haven't weathered any cars so they still have their shiny new paint, most I've done is a coat of Dull Coat. Well I'l wait for the next posts. Good thread thanks

Willis

 

[dthurman]

OK! quit stalling I'm with you this far. The lettering is looking real enough to me. A couple of newbie questions. When using the x-acto blade, are you using the point or the cutting edge of the blade, or a combination of both?
The sanding stick sounds pretty good however when I try sandpaper (emery cloth) on lettering it seems like it takes forever to remove any of it. To me it seemed labour intensive. do you have a method you use with the sandpaper? Maybe the grade of grit I use is too light? Erasers didn't work very good for me, maybe one of those hard grey colored ones might, I can't recall trying one. Now I just strip paint lettering and all, effective but not the best. Now I haven't weathered any cars so they still have their shiny new paint, most I've done is a coat of Dull Coat. Well I'l wait for the next posts. Good thread thanks

Willis

Willis

I haven't tried it yet, I bought some of these the other day and think they may have a value, the guys at modeltrainsweathered.com recommened I use sandpaper to make fixes and changes, figured it would work for fading or paint loss on letters.

Here is what I bought, they come in different grits.

Here is their site: Excel Hobby Blades

 

[CBCNSfan]

OH! K! I can't recall seeing one of those anywhere, maybe just maybe, I can buckshey one of those it looks promising. I was just using folded sandpaper and pressure with my finger. That tool and it's leverage puts a whole new perspective into view. Thanks for the photo, I'll try something, soon as it quietens down around here.

Willis

 

[uspscsx]

Sorry guys, haven't gotten anything done today. I will do plenty tomorrow, though. I had to finish up my Wisconsin Central hopper for eBay.

More tomorrow.

 

[uspscsx]

OK! quit stalling I'm with you this far. The lettering is looking real enough to me. A couple of newbie questions. When using the x-acto blade, are you using the point or the cutting edge of the blade, or a combination of both?
The sanding stick sounds pretty good however when I try sandpaper (emery cloth) on lettering it seems like it takes forever to remove any of it. To me it seemed labour intensive. do you have a method you use with the sandpaper? Maybe the grade of grit I use is too light? Erasers didn't work very good for me, maybe one of those hard grey colored ones might, I can't recall trying one. Now I just strip paint lettering and all, effective but not the best. Now I haven't weathered any cars so they still have their shiny new paint, most I've done is a coat of Dull Coat. Well I'l wait for the next posts. Good thread thanks

Willis

I use the point. I scrape lightly up and down, then in circles.

 

[uspscsx]

I got some finished last night. I will describe it and add pictures later.

 

[uspscsx]

STEP 3: Apply dull yellow chalk to side A of Railbox. Seal with Dullcote afterwards.

This step required to talent whatsoever. Mellow-Mike says my teaching credentials are revoked...but who says he has to know about this...

All I did was scrape, with an Xacto, my pastel chalk onto a paper towel. I spread it all over the side, except the door. I then added a layer of Dullcote. Compare the color now with the color of it "before." Sure beats the heck out of a shiny, neon yellow!

(I'll buff out those scratches, cap'n!)

Matt

 

[uspscsx]

Well, the dulled yellow of the Railbox was virtually useless. The Railbox is now a variation of either a golden brown or a shade of dull yellow showing through. Looks great in my opinion...of course I AM the weatherer. I'll upload a picture tomorrow.

 

[uspscsx]

Oh, and the scratches from "fading" the logo...seem to have disappeared. Of course, that's a good thing!

 

[uspscsx]

Dullcote is being applied. Pictures later.

 

[ssw9662]

That car looks awesome!

Can't wait to see more photos!

 

[uspscsx]

STEP 4: Brush on brown chalk to give the Railbox a golden-brown appearance.

This step involved taking my stiff brush, dipping it into my brown chalk container, and brushing in an up-down motion on the side of the Railbox. That's basically it. I sealed with Dullcote afterwards.

The golden-brown color is common to Railboxes. Railboxes such as the below are examples.
http://rr-fallenflags.org/rbox/rbox43733amg.jpg
http://rr-fallenflags.org/rbox/rbox43887atz.jpg
http://rr-fallenflags.org/rbox/rbox42852amg.jpg

NEXT UP: Rust around the edges.

 

[dthurman]

Not to shabby Matt. I hereby reinstate your weathering license. In fact it is non-revokable from this day forward

 

[uspscsx]

Not to shabby Matt. I hereby reinstate your weathering license. In fact it is non-revokable from this day forward

Hehe. Thanks for the laugh and the comment.

 

[ssw9662]

Wow, that looks even better now. Sure beats the cheesy fresh out of the shop yellow look.