I hope this isn't to stupid a ?, but I have my new layout set up and tried to run a train but the engine/cars come off the track at the Atlas turn outs. If you look at the picture below, you can see where the regular rail ends (on the left) and there is a notch or step where the movable part of the turn out moves to when it is in the straight through mode. The wheel of the engine hits this notch and it's knocked off the track. All the engines and cars I have are 15-20 years old, has something changed in the wheel design that eliminates this problem?
Another newbie Atlas turnout ?
- Thread starter Duke94
- Start date
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Yes, but they are cheap crap!
Actually, I've found the Customline switches to be improving in quality over the past year. The code 83 switches rarely need much work and are quite reliable. I've had both Peco and Shinohara switches at more than twice the price that also had manufacturing flaws that needed to be fixed, although much fewer times than Atlas switches. If I had an unlimited budget, I'd go with one of the two above named brands. Since I don't, I'm willing to spend 10 minutes work to get an Atlas switch working perfectly.
I agree. Cars with metal wheels seem to track alot better.
Yes, they all have plastic wheels. I will buy a couple new ones with metal wheels and give it another try. I appreciate all the guidance.
Yes, all the Atlas switches were new. All 7 of them! I have filed and tweaked on them so much that there is no way I can send them back now.
There was mentioned in one post about inserting a toothpick between the fixed rail and moveable rail so it doesn’t travel so far. How do you hold the toothpick in place? Any photos you can share of a reworked Atlas switch?
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hamltnblue
Active Member
I assume that the engine derails when turning. If so you could try to place a couple of pieces of paper between where the black plastic block is across from the joint. The block is what stops the rail from moving too far. By placing a spacer in there teh rail will not cyle all of the way and make the gap smaller
Two things to do, both involve fine flat file. First, file down that fixed track section a bit so there's a bevel that leads to the point (the moveable part at the top of the picture). Second, get a toothpick and place it between the point and the fixed rail. File the point down until it's almost razor sharp. It's too blunt now, which is causing the flange to to move the point and the car to derail. It's called "picking the point". This a common problem with all Atlas switches so you should plan on this kind of tune-up for all your switches. This should fix your problem.
Aarons72s
HOOSIER IN OKLAHOMA
Yes atlas code 100 switches arent the greatest. They are in need of a major retooling as they are a fairly old design. There code 83 ones arent to bad. The only thing bad about the code 83 ones are the sheet metal points and sometimes some electrical issues. As for the ones by peco, as suggested above, they look better but I have never used them as they are alot more than the atlas. We realy need decent turnouts for no more than $9.00 retail. But I don't think that will ever happen.
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Yes, but they are cheap crap!
Actually, I've found the Customline switches to be improving in quality over the past year. The code 83 switches rarely need much work and are quite reliable. I've had both Peco and Shinohara switches at more than twice the price that also had manufacturing flaws that needed to be fixed, although much fewer times than Atlas switches. If I had an unlimited budget, I'd go with one of the two above named brands. Since I don't, I'm willing to spend 10 minutes work to get an Atlas switch working perfectly.
After filing and tweaking on these switches for the past couple hours all I’ve done is get myself frustrated. The cars seem to still want to come off the track. The cars are just cheap ones that have been around for 20 years, should I buy a couple of new ones and see if they work any better? There seems to be a difference in track width between cars, some fit the rail spacing better than others. What would be a good brand to buy?
Alcomotive
Grandson of an ALCO Builder
Do the cars have plastic wheels? or metal? If they are plastic ....chunk them! and change them out to metal.
Aarons72s
HOOSIER IN OKLAHOMA
I agree. Cars with metal wheels seem to track alot better.
If they are the cheap AHM variety cars, they also have large size flanges, which tend to pick switches more often than the smaller, NMRA standard flanges. The wheels may also be out of gauge. They may also be too light weight, which will also derail cars through a switch, especially when backing. I would go out and buy a few Bachmann Silver series cars and see how they do. They aren't terribly expensive and I would expect to see a major improvement in how well thet track through the switch.
Yes, they all have plastic wheels. I will buy a couple new ones with metal wheels and give it another try. I appreciate all the guidance.
Well, I replaced 4 of the Atlas switches with the 20 year old Life-like units and what a difference. The cars go through the switch in both directions with no issue. I am ready to pitch the Atlas ones. Does Life-like still make these switches? I found a few of NOS ones on eBay but it looks like their latest design is just the snap together type with the roadbed attached.
No, Life-Like no longer makes sectional track or switches. They, or I should say Walthers, since they own the Life-Like name, make the Power-Loc track and roadbed combinations you've seen.
The old Life-Like switches were almost universally hated for their sloppy quality control and poor tracking ability. If you've got them and they work better than the Atlas switches, I can't help but think you got a bad batch. Did you buy them new? If so, can you exchange them? Even with the occasional Atlas problems, there's no way that old Life-Like switches should be out performing new Atlas switches.
The old Life-Like switches were almost universally hated for their sloppy quality control and poor tracking ability. If you've got them and they work better than the Atlas switches, I can't help but think you got a bad batch. Did you buy them new? If so, can you exchange them? Even with the occasional Atlas problems, there's no way that old Life-Like switches should be out performing new Atlas switches.
Yes, all the Atlas switches were new. All 7 of them! I have filed and tweaked on them so much that there is no way I can send them back now.
There was mentioned in one post about inserting a toothpick between the fixed rail and moveable rail so it doesn’t travel so far. How do you hold the toothpick in place? Any photos you can share of a reworked Atlas switch?
The Devils advocate!
Well Well, all my turnouts are Atlas (mostly Customline #6) and a few #4's.
Derailments, yes a few picked points but the problem most always turned out to be wheels out of gauge. But to be honest there is one #6 that is a piece of crap, had to take it out as the points would never close properly when activated with a switch machine. Sitting on a table by it self, yep it would work ever time but add a piece of track in front of the points yup fail every time. Some day when I have nothing to do, and if I'm still alive I'll find out what's wrong with it.
Cheers
Willis
Well Well, all my turnouts are Atlas (mostly Customline #6) and a few #4's.
Derailments, yes a few picked points but the problem most always turned out to be wheels out of gauge. But to be honest there is one #6 that is a piece of crap, had to take it out as the points would never close properly when activated with a switch machine. Sitting on a table by it self, yep it would work ever time but add a piece of track in front of the points yup fail every time. Some day when I have nothing to do, and if I'm still alive I'll find out what's wrong with it.
Cheers
Willis
MLW
Active Member
Atlas switches are crap!
Your problem? Altas swicthes.
I've found, that altas switches are piece of crap.
I have replaced almost all of them. That is the best
thing I ever did on my layout.
The best? PECO no contest
Steer clear of Walther Hoshimara (or something like that)
That's another piece of crap.
My $1.55 Euro.
Your problem? Altas swicthes.
I've found, that altas switches are piece of crap.
I have replaced almost all of them. That is the best
thing I ever did on my layout.
The best? PECO no contest
Steer clear of Walther Hoshimara (or something like that)
That's another piece of crap.
My $1.55 Euro.
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