2 x 6ft HO scale yard layout - Advice?


I drew up this layout on AnyRail and Photoshop, and I want to know people's opinion on this. Any suggestions or advice that would enhance this layout even more? I'd like to make sure I build this layout perfectly because this layout will require me to purchase 10 no. 4 turnouts which are a bit pricey. Thanks!

HO scale shelf layout v7 image with colors.jpg
 
Wow that’s a lot of switch backs! That gets old pretty quick, even for the switch loving crowd.
It looks like the runaround can handle one car but I’d try to make it a tad longer somehow.
Angling some of the track can add length and interest if you can do it.
Best advice is to try this setup on SCARM or a similar program that lets you run on it to see how it works for you.
I’m revamping parts of my HO layout and going thru the same thing myself.
 
It is just me, and you've asked for my opinion: it's too short, maybe by three-five feet. I would not want to have a switcher and only two or three cars....which is what you'll be faced with above.
 
Can anyone please tell me which layout configuration would keep me from getting bored?

4x6ft oval HO scale layout with a few turnouts

OR

2x6ft oval N scale layout with a few turnouts

OR

2x6ft HO scale switching yard layout?
 
Can anyone please tell me which layout configuration would keep me from getting bored?

4x6ft oval HO scale layout with a few turnouts

OR

2x6ft oval N scale layout with a few turnouts

OR

2x6ft HO scale switching yard layout?
It all comes down to what you like.

Do you like to watch and run trains on a loop?

Do you like operations?

Are you into scenery, structure building, and detailing more than running trains?

It comes down to what YOU like/want to do.

I tear mine down and rebuild something different every couple of years. I like building stuff more than running trains.

Dave Frary has been modeling since I first read some of his MRC articles in the 1970's. It will help you get motivated.



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Can anyone please tell me which layout configuration would keep me from getting bored?

4x6ft oval HO scale layout with a few turnouts

OR

2x6ft oval N scale layout with a few turnouts

OR

2x6ft HO scale switching yard layout?
One can get bored with anything. I think it depends how actively one can engage one's imagination. Do you play role games like Dungeons & Dragons? or do you find them tedious?

Any layout, switching or loop, can be set up as some sort of challenge. Make scenarios where one times or counts number of moves to complete it. Another possibility is to make a schedule and see if one can keep it.

In my layout career I've had everything in HO and N, from HO 4x4 to an N-scale 2x8 as my primary layouts. Never got bored with any of them.

I believe this is 2'x3.5' before I added the elevation for the bridge.
Middle is a small HO I put together with "left over" stuff from other projects. Proved to be a really fun design.
Third is the smallest HO I've ever built. 15" radius loop that travels over the river and through the woods. Even had a place ON the layout for the power supply.
IMG_0219 - Copy.JPG
swichman.JPG
tinyloop.JPG
 
Can anyone please tell me which layout configuration would keep me from getting bored?
4x6ft oval HO scale layout with a few turnouts
OR
2x6ft oval N scale layout with a few turnouts
OR
2x6ft HO scale switching yard layout?

I don't think there has ever been track laid down on a flat sheet of plywood that hasn't got boring in short order. Once you get past that stage and start adding some structures and scenery, the boredom factor should disappear real fast, since you have now given your railroad a verifiable purpose for existence.

One of your best bets, in my opinion, might be to do a google search for "hollow core door layouts". Probably the bulk of which are built in N-scale, if the truth is known. Larger scales can be used too, but they tend to be strictly switching layouts. Regardless, see what others have built to get some ideas for an appealing track plan. Hollow core doors come in a variety of standard sizes, albeit slightly larger than your desired size, depending on the door.

The most common sizes of interior door sizes should be available in widths of 28", 30", 32", and 36", with a height of 80" (6'-8"). Slightly smaller yet might be closet doors with a height of 78" (6'-6"). Widths can get pretty narrow, like maybe down to 12" or so, when used for bi-fold closet doors.

N-scale on a hollow core door can give you several advantages. An oval of track with generous-sized curves, plus plenty of room in the middle for tons of switching and scenery opportunities. A sheet of 1" thick pink or blue foam glued on would be a good base for scenery, so you can dig out below track level for rivers, ditches, ponds, seasides, etc. Add more foam on top for hills, mountains, and tunnels if desired. The entire layout is pretty light weight, and can easily be stored upright, leaned against a wall for space-savings when not in use.

You don't necessarily need a lot of switches either, to keep from being bored. I've seen some pretty nice and interesting layouts built with a minimal amount of switches. I also recommend going with the largest switch you can for best and most reliable operating characteristics, and in N-scale on a hollow core door you should easily be able to work in #6 or #7 or "Large" switches in a lot of circumstances.

Give that some thought and see what you think.
 
Can anyone please tell me which layout configuration would keep me from getting bored?

4x6ft oval HO scale layout with a few turnouts

OR

2x6ft oval N scale layout with a few turnouts

OR

2x6ft HO scale switching yard layout?
A lot depends on what you want the layout to do: to paraphrase an old line, it's not the size of your layout, it's what you do with it! It's easy to fill a sheet of plywood with tracks, on the assumption that more tracks=more fun, but that's not always the case. A good layout starts with an idea, based on what sort of railroading you want to model. This is the case whether you're designing a mini layout that fits on a coffee table or a building-sized club layout.

If you are more of a train-watcher, who enjoys sitting back and watching trains run, then an oval will almost always be more satisfying than a switching layout. But there are also modelers who enjoy switching--I'm in that camp myself. And there are also plenty of ways to add switching and operation to a 4x6 HO layout or 2x6 N layout, which is why a lot of model railroaders start out with a loop and add switches to increase complexity and operating potential. The trouble happens when they keep adding more switches, again with the "more track=more fun" idea in mind. But sometimes less is more--again, based on what you want to do with your trains. A switching layout is intended to simulate jobs a real railroad does--namely, moving cars from a yard (where mainline trains have left cars to be delivered to that part of the railroad) to local industries, and then moving cars at those industries back to the yard. There are other types, like switching layouts that are just yards, or just complex industries, or even just engine service facilities, but each part of the layout has a function.

Here's my solution to a similar problem:
20231214_145154.jpg

This is a 3'x6' HO scale switching layout. It is L-shaped, so in square feet it's slightly smaller than your 2'x6' switching layout plan. It's intended to model Sacramento Northern Railway's switching operations on the northern end of the city of Sacramento. It consists of three main parts. On the right is a small yard, which can hold up to 8 cars or locomotives. On the left are 4 industries, 2 of which are on one siding with a capacity of 1 car each, 1 has its own siding and a 2 car capacity, and 1 has its own siding and a 3 car capacity, so the customers here can accept up to 7 cars. In between is a runaround track, which can handle 2-3 cars at once, with room for a loco and a car or two on each end. You start with a locomotive and a few cars in the yard. By whatever means sound like the most fun (waybills and car cards, wheel reports, switch lists, roll of the dice or just random whim), decide which cars need to go to which industries, and use the switcher to move the cars to the industries by a series of moves involving the runaround track and main line. To add a bit more complexity, start with a couple of cars already spotted at the industries; these become the "inbound" cars that you will remove from the spurs and bring back to the yard, presumably to be picked up by the next train going northbound or southbound. Operation is a whole separate discussion, but that's what turns this from a static diorama or animated display into a strategy game.

Other fun to be had: I left enough room on the layout for the industries, scenery, and some decorative elements just for scenery, like the homes and businesses near the runaround track, and the non-functional railroad berm on the left that run over the tunnel. As someone who enjoys the artistry of doing scenery and building buildings, that's a big part of the fun for me. I built this mini layout first, after experimenting with a 3'x6' HO scale layout (with very sharp curves) and discovering that I was not a round-and-round fan. Speaking of which, the curve onto the peninsula on my plan is very sharp (12" radius) which might not be suitable for everyone, but someone adapting this plan to their own use could easily substitute 15" or 18" curve and still get similar capacity, but with a smaller industry building. Switches are basically equivalent to #4.

But here's a second potential solution, if you're more of a yardmaster type:
20231214_145221.jpg

This is a pair of sections that I added to the L-shaped mini layout above (you can see the tunnel on the right which is in the far left of the photo above), representing a prototype division-point yard. It consists of 2 sections attached end to end, 1 6' long and 1 4' long (which used to be 6' long but I had to cut 2 feet off after relocating the layout), which as you can see makes up a 4-track yard, with spurs on either end for cabooses and Maintenance of Way equipment. From bottom to top, the tracks are the main line, northbound, southbound, and interchange (the prototype interchanges with its parent railroad Western Pacific.) But for someone who likes making and breaking trains, it's operable as a mini layout all by itself.

And just for fun, here's a third, even simpler option:
20231214_145409.jpg

This is a 4' by 1' section of layout, attached to the right-hand side of the first picture I posted. It has just 1 large industry (a cannery) with 2 spurs with a capacity of 2 cars each, and the main track on the bottom, with room for 1 car and a switcher to the left. It's similar to a common "mini layout" switching-puzzle plan called an Inglenook. I added this to the layout separately, but with the deliberate idea that it could function as its own mini layout, by starting out with several cars and a loco on the main, and shuffling cars between there and the two spurs. It sounds like you're already thinking in terms of future shelf-layout expansion, which is also what I did; today the layout runs around 3 walls of a roughly 23'x10' space, with room for a branch line and plans for a loop running around the fourth wall. Not each section is as deliberately designed for independent operation, but it has allowed me to grow from a mini layout to a garage empire (admittedly over the course of nearly two decades) with each section being completed and operable in turn, instead of the traditional approach of building all the benchwork, then all the trackwork, then all the scenery, and not being able to run trains through finished layout for many years. It also has other advantages, like portability (I have moved this layout twice, which is no fun but less agony than demolishing a permanent layout and starting from new.) I have more sections, but this post has already gone on long enough and I hope my points are clear without being too pedantic.
 
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There is a very thin line between boring and frustratingly complicated. If you want a layout to have legs, then it should be just a hair frustrating, and not fall on the easy side. Or, make something that interests you at first, and then turn your energy toward improvements to the scenery and structure kits, or weathering, and then take up photography. You can learn how to stack several images with different focus depths, and take the whole thing outdoors and image the scenery, again with stacking, in natural light. There is nothing like an image down at track level in natural lighting to teach you two things: how to look at your creation critically, and also what you've messed up or missed.
 



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