Techniques for Painting/weathering Wooden Loading Dock


G

GuilfordRailman

Well-Known Member
I assembled a wooden loading dock a while back and I’ve begun to do research on painting and weathering it.

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One technique I’ve found is to spray paint the dock black and then use various brown and gray powders to weather it. Has anybody tried this technique before? Any other methods you recommend?
 
I did this wood deck with airbrush paint and powders. I started with a light coat of Vallejo earth. Then medium earth powder. Last was delta dirt powder with a coat of dull coat airbrushed to seal. Wood weathers in different ways. Dirt gets ground in from equipment going up and down the ramp. There is no wrong way, dark browns, light browns, grimy black, and gray are some colors to consider.
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CambriaArea51 said:
I did this wood deck with airbrush paint and powders. I started with a light coat of Vallejo earth. Then medium earth powder. Last was delta dirt powder with a coat of dull coat airbrushed to seal. Wood weathers in different ways. Dirt gets ground in from equipment going up and down the ramp. There is no wrong way, dark browns, light browns, grimy black, and gray are some colors to consider.View attachment 186258View attachment 186259
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Looks great! Thanks for the info!
 
I use powdered chalk, usually black or brown, mixed with alcohol. Apply it with a small
brush taking care not to apply it consistently. Some areas with more, some areas with
less or none at all. Makes for a varied look, representative of the real world.
 
Use a file card or fine Zona saw blade, with the grain, to put some age on it. Even gouge some of the boards along the loading/unloading side.

Hit it with washes of dark earth, neutral gray, and mud, then a thin black wash over everything to blend it. A hair dryer will speed up the process.
 
shortwrench said:
I use powdered chalk, usually black or brown, mixed with alcohol. Apply it with a small
brush taking care not to apply it consistently. Some areas with more, some areas with
less or none at all. Makes for a varied look, representative of the real world.
Click to expand...
I found this photo online, has some interesting coloration on it.

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Thanks for the information, very helpful!
 
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Marlin39 said:
Use a file card or fine Zona saw blade, with the grain, to put some age on it. Even gouge some of the boards along the loading/unloading side.

Hit it with washes of dark earth, neutral gray, and mud, then a thin black wash over everything to blend it. A hair dryer will speed up the process.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks for the information!
 
Vallejo paints has diferent kits for weathering wood and such. in the kit is a detailed explanation on how to use those paints and pigments to achieve very realistic weathering effects. they go to the point of explaining how the layering of the paints and pigments achieve the look. well worth buying them just for the instructional value.
 
I’ve worked with wood for decades, for home furnishings, and for model ships:

Wood is an absorptive medium, and your first coat or two of weathering agents will behave likie wood stain, dictate the color of the wood. The first will have the greatest effect, then the second. Subsequent coats will not soak in as much, and behave more like paints.

Different species of wood differ in how absorbtive they are, some hobby woods absorb too much, and have a blotchy look, as well.

The smoother a wood surface is sanded, the less it will absorb.

The surface of your dock looks like it is grooved to simulate planks. If those grooves are deep enough to contain a wash, I recommend staining to define the base color of your surfaces first, then apply the wash for defining the plank lines after.

(On my model ships, I would make a deck out of individual planks; I would stain the plank edges before assembly, then a light sanding after the deck was laid, to ensure the lines were clean, then oil the deck for the final look.)
 
C&OMtnMan said:
I’ve worked with wood for decades, for home furnishings, and for model ships:

Wood is an absorptive medium, and your first coat or two of weathering agents will behave likie wood stain, dictate the color of the wood. The first will have the greatest effect, then the second. Subsequent coats will not soak in as much, and behave more like paints.

Different species of wood differ in how absorbtive they are, some hobby woods absorb too much, and have a blotchy look, as well.

The smoother a wood surface is sanded, the less it will absorb.

The surface of your dock looks like it is grooved to simulate planks. If those grooves are deep enough to contain a wash, I recommend staining to define the base color of your surfaces first, then apply the wash for defining the plank lines after.

(On my model ships, I would make a deck out of individual planks; I would stain the plank edges before assembly, then a light sanding after the deck was laid, to ensure the lines were clean, then oil the deck for the final look.)
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Really great information, thanks!

I’m not sure it would make sense for me to purchase wood stain since I would need very little, but I assume the effect would look relatively the same if I created a wash using brown paint and water? I could then apply either weathering powders or a lighter wash on top?
 
GuilfordRailman said:
Really great information, thanks!

I’m not sure it would make sense for me to purchase wood stain since I would need very little, but I assume the effect would look relatively the same if I created a wash using brown paint and water? I could then apply either weathering powders or a lighter wash on top?
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I’m using “stain” as reference to the general process - however, an acrylic paint or wash is pretty close to a water-based stain, artist’s oils use linseed oil, the same oil as oul-based stains. The difference between paints and stains is in the ratio of pigments. And inthe binders, too.
 
C&OMtnMan said:
I’m using “stain” as reference to the general process - however, an acrylic paint or wash is pretty close to a water-based stain, artist’s oils use linseed oil, the same oil as oul-based stains. The difference between paints and stains is in the ratio of pigments. And inthe binders, too.
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Ahh okay. That makes more sense! I will give it a go then with a water-based stain. Thanks!
 
Mixed Freight said:
I've used old, dirty, enamel paint thinner as a stain before. Such as small bottles of Testors and Pactra enamel paint thinner, dirty from cleaning paint brushes of blacks, grays, browns, red oxides, whites, and any other flat, earthy colors. Shake, the bottle up, apply the "stain", and enjoy.
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I’ve got some of that! Interesting idea, might have to give it a go, thanks!
 
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