It's an older Atlas mechanism. I have an Atlas C424 with that mechanism and it's smoother than a newer Kato SD38-2. DCC install is similar to an Athearn in that you need to solder the connections on but it's not terribly difficult. Keep in mind you'll have to source handrails for the geeps...
The track is doubtful. I think it all comes from either China or Germany. As to the turnouts, just remember that less is sometimes more. That plan you liked to looks a little cluttered, so perhaps some paring down could be useful, depending on hwat you want. You can also build sections at a time...
glue is kinda mandatory for foam, unless you use long pins. You don't have any sharp curves for the cork to deal with so temporary tacking should be fine, but when you have decided on alignment and such, you should glue it down. Glue doesn't have to be messy though.
Well, it's simple. A railroad has a purpose. Point to point could mean narrow-gauge mine traction hauling ore jennies from the mine to a smelter or loading bins at a standard gauge RR. It could mean an industrial/shortline taking cars from an interchange to industries along/at the end of the...
8"R is...is this some sort of narrow-gauge railroad? If so then it may be doable, but that's tight for Lionel toys.
At 16', you could build a gumstump style railroad and have a very interesting setup.
http://carendt.us/scrapbook/page38a/index.html
I think the thundering rails was my first train set. Must have been...1995 I think. One of the Christmases I remember best. I *knew* what was in the box before I unwrapped it. It was just the right size. :D And of course being 6, when time came to put away the track every singe one of those rail...
Raise it. Put 1/2" or 3/4" of foam under it and glue the track down to the foam without roadbed. Having the mine slightly elevated relative to the rest of the track will look better.
As to the handrail, most handrails are molded out of self-lubricating plastic, usually acetal. What this means...
Well cars don't look quite right on 18"R curves but they work as long as they have metal wheels (and kadees). The articulated 5-unit sets may look better due to slightly shorter chassis. I wouldn't recommend shortening them simply because they won't be of much use later on.
That said...
While you have it clamped together, drill some holes for snug-fit dowel pins for alignment. Another two holes for the anchoring bolts. when you lay track, drive some nails into the wood just deep enough to make contact with the undersides of the rails. (this is with the sections bolted...
The idea though is to be able to leave that industry alone. In the vein of being realistic, if there was enough cause to build a switchback, there would be a dedicated drill track unless there was no possible way.
Yes, it's normal for the rail to stick out. It's basic geometry. The inner rail is a smaller radius than the outside rail. A given length applied to a smaller radius will create a greater arc length than the larger radius. This is why cars have differentials.
The proper method for joining...
Yeah, track is expensive :D It looks better, but I'd still flip the crossover just to the left of the joint so that the yard drill can set out an outbound train for pickup on the second track. If you flip it in place, instead of flipping it and moving it right so straddle the joint, it enables...