Ericsauto
Well-Known Member
No that is an Indiana and Ohio .Looks good! Not my favourite part of the hobby.
Is that a Farmrail loco I see?
PS: quit pushing those ground throws down so far!
No that is an Indiana and Ohio .Looks good! Not my favourite part of the hobby.
Is that a Farmrail loco I see?
PS: quit pushing those ground throws down so far!
Looks good! Not my favourite part of the hobby.
Is that a Farmrail loco I see?
PS: quit pushing those ground throws down so far!
Yes, I remember you. Your layout is looking great, there is a lot of switching. If you notice I still have one double crossover that works fine. The other one just gave me fits and enough was enough. I hated to throw a $100 piece of track in the garbage but it is what it is. Everything is working pretty well now.I once had 4 Shinohara double crossovers I was going to try and located on my new layout,...decided to see them off and do that track work with two sets of single crossovers with Peko turnouts. (don't know if you remember me, but at one time I had a Central Midland layout like yourself)
.....my new double deck layout
Interesting track plan, Tupper Lake & Faust Junction
I think I will be satisfied with normal thin mirrors. Can mirror surfaces be painted,....irregular sky color across the tops?........alternative to cutting irregular curves in mirrors??modelrailroadforums.com
I realized that I mounted these wrong and just haven't fixed them yet. Next time read the instructions!PS: quit pushing those ground throws down so far!
Every layout needs a donut shop! I have more details on the large do-nut to do and then work on the area around the shop.View attachment 179372View attachment 179373View attachment 179374
So did you keep the pancake motor, or did you re-engineer it to hold a can and worm gear. Or ... did you scrap the whole frame and use one of the Bowser conversion frames? I've seen all three methods done.Something I would like to share. I bought this Lionel Ho Southern Pacific Daylight when I was 14 years old in 1976. I thought about selling this numerous times. But I thought “This was the first locomotive steam engine I bought”.Then I decided to convert it to DCC sound.
This conversion was not easy due to the split frame and pancake motor. George from Soundtraxx has been a great help.
This is the original pain in the rear pancake motor without getting into a long story. I worked on this for almost 2 weeks wondering why the thing was running so slow ( about half-throttle). I had purchased another one for parts off of eBay for next to nothing. It was missing a few little parts. After getting frustrated and talking with George from Soundtraxx numerous times, I tried the other one I bought for parts. It turned out I had a motor issue with my original chassis. Ok, I know it is not 100% my original one but it is still with the shell and tender. Motors go bad. I may try to rebuild that motor when I get a chance.So did you keep the pancake motor, or did you re-engineer it to hold a can and worm gear. Or ... did you scrap the whole frame and use one of the Bowser conversion frames? I've seen all three methods done.
I had gotten that impression, but had to ask.This is the original pain in the rear pancake motor without getting into a long story.
Been there too, and came up with the same rule that you did. My first rule of converting to command control. Step #1. Make certain the locomotive is running well on DC. That way one knows when there is a problem that it IS the DCC and not something else.I worked on this for almost 2 weeks wondering why the thing was running so slow ... It turned out I had a motor issue with my original chassis. ... Test it on DC before you convert it. It would have saved me a ton of time, but the learning experience was invaluable.
That will be easy peezy after that GS-4. My first conversion to command control in 1983 (PNP-112 not DCC but same principle), was one of the Atlas SD25s of that same design. I scraped the factory "board" flat and put the a decoder on top. Today they make many drop in decoders that replace the factory strip directly. If you go with sound that will be the hardest part. I obviously didn't at the time, as the sound systems of the day were not DCC compatible.I am going to do my 1977 Atlas GP40, the first real engine I bought myself.
I am putting sound in it. On GP's like this, I use an Apple iPhone 5 speaker. Works and sounds great. I will post pictures of this hopefully next week.That will be easy peezy after that GS-4. My first conversion to command control in 1983 (PNP-112 not DCC but same principle), was one of the Atlas SD25s of that same design. I scraped the factory "board" flat and put the a decoder on top. Today they make many drop in decoders that replace the factory strip directly. If you go with sound that will be the hardest part. I obviously didn't at the time, as the sound systems of the day were not DCC compatible.
Unfortunately I can't find a photo.
Agree, but try using more than 1 speaker! I've got an RS-3 with 4 speakers (iPhone 4 with port plugged) and it sounds richer.I am putting sound in it. On GP's like this, I use an Apple iPhone 5 speaker. Works and sounds great. I will post pictures of this hopefully next week.
Not sure if I understand what you mean by port plugged.? You have any pictures?Agree, but try using more than 1 speaker! I've got an RS-3 with 4 speakers (iPhone 4 with port plugged) and it sounds richer.