Jerome's Switcher Roster


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Jerome, when adding detail parts, is it just glue or do i need to drill holes? Im not going over the top, just looking to add some pilot plows to Athearn BB locomotives, maybe MU hoses as well.

Some great looking engines in this thread, your a true master craftsman when it comes to creating these things. Theyre certainly impressive.
 
failure model, although a lot of parts)))

wheeler1963 hello!
and yet Hello!

I have this model SW1500 Athearn. Very good detail ... but the hands do not take it! ;-)
Plastic handles are broken!!! ;-(

I need help! I've heard - there are metal railings for this model.
Tell me who they are doing?

wheeler1963 Or sell my body!)))
 
Rustam,

What your looking for is Smokey Valley brass handrail set.

Kit #23 SW1500 & SW1000 Handrails & sit on Deck Stanchions.
Fits Cary SW1500, Athearn SW1500 & Athearn SW1000. $15.95

You'll have to shop hobby stores to find them or ebay.
 
kbkchooch said:
A&P 1207 has hit a little delay. The decoder and speaker are in place, and early testing is excruciatingly promising.:D However, being the perfectionist that I can be, I wanted more. So I am waiting new wheelsets (nickle silver) and a new A-Line can motor to totally silence the normal Athearn growl. Not that there was an abnormal amount of noise to start with, just me being me!;)
So stay tuned, my LHS says he will have parts by Wednesday, maybe by the weekend pics and video?
In either case, it will probably be done before we see any A&P cabooses!!:rolleyes:
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A&P 1207 has experienced the grinder and the torch, and is resting comfortably is recovery after surgery to replace the sintered steels wheels with nickel-silver and motor replacement. Currently curing is the silicone that is holding a new Mashima motor with flywheels .. I'll warn you, dont try this without a carbide cutter in a Dremel, eye protection and compressed air. You gotta remove a lot of metal to get a good fit, but it should be worth it!!

Meanwhile, the body shell is completed, and the decoder and speaker installed. Just 4 more wires to hook up after the silicone cures........:D
 
Wouldn't it have been easier to buy the Mashima motor that Athearn used, and maybe a pair of power trucks as well? Athearn's RTR SW1500 drive is the same as the blue box except it has nickel-silver wheels, hex shafts, and a mashima motor. The motor mounts the same way as well, so there's no milling involved. The shell also mounts the same way to the frame.

I have a RTR SW1500 shell on a BB drive. I haven't figured out what I want to do with it yet though (It's in the SOU River Street Rambler scheme)
 
diburning said:
Wouldn't it have been easier to buy the Mashima motor that Athearn used, and maybe a pair of power trucks as well? Athearn's RTR SW1500 drive is the same as the blue box except it has nickel-silver wheels, hex shafts, and a mashima motor. The motor mounts the same way as well, so there's no milling involved. The shell also mounts the same way to the frame.

I have a RTR SW1500 shell on a BB drive. I haven't figured out what I want to do with it yet though (It's in the SOU River Street Rambler scheme)
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Maybe, if I had known about it, I might have tried it, but when SW1500 repower was fed to the computer, the A-Line kit was the 1st to pop up. However, in retrospect, it was worth it. I now have a larger motor, with bigger flywheels, lower in the fame. More power plus more room for the sound system makes me happy!!
 
I love my new Calf Cow set they are so awesome. I know its a little late in posting but Jerome these are AWESOME!!!!!
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Ok gang! 1207 lives again!!:D
Life has been getting in the way lately, and the much promised video is coming, but in the meantime, some in process build pics !!
Honestly, milling out the frame and putting in the can motor and replacing the wheels required more work than the decoder install. but since this is a test bed type engine, a 4 point plug was added to facilitate shell removal and future lighting upgrades!!
Enjoy!
1207c.JPG

1207b.JPG

1207a.JPG
 
Karl, I like what you did by using the 4 point plug. I hate all the wires attached to motor and shell from the dcc chips. Can you use any 4 point plug or does it need to have certain spec. ? plz keep in mind im not total savvy in elecronics/electrical:)
thanks G
 
For awhile it seems something has been missing in my life. Now I realize I've been living without switchers :eek::rolleyes:. Thanks for this thread and helping me find my way once again! Time to go shopping....or trading maybe. :)
 
diburning said:
You can use any plug that fits. Just be careful not to plug it in backwards.
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Looks like the two outer wires go to the pickups and the two inside wires go to the motor so plugging it in backwards won’t matter as it would only go in the opposite direction. I would be more worried with the wires rubbing on the flywheels and eventually causing a short when the insulation rubs off. Also on Athearn Blue Box models you have to make sure to isolate any metal coupler from the metal frame as the frame has power going through it. Couple two units back to back with metal couplers and stock slips and you will definitely cause a short.
 
railfan said:
For awhile it seems something has been missing in my life. Now I realize I've been living without switchers :eek::rolleyes:. Thanks for this thread and helping me find my way once again! Time to go shopping....or trading maybe. :)
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Gotta have switchers! I have about 15(no where close to jerome) from S-12, SW7, SW1500, SW1000, SW1200, 3GS21 I love them:D.
 
fire28 said:
Gotta have switchers! I have about 15(no where close to jerome) from S-12, SW7, SW1500, SW1000, SW1200, 3GS21 I love them:D.
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I live in mount vernon, ohio and the only train that comes here anymore is an emd switcher from newark 25 miles south of here. It pulls around a few boxcars and grain hoppers a couple days a week. But I'll take it...what the heck it's pretty neat after seeing no trains for awhile. Now up northwest in downtown marion ohio they have 100 trains a day sometimes.....busy busy :eek:.
 
MGWSY said:
Also on Athearn Blue Box models you have to make sure to isolate any metal coupler from the metal frame as the frame has power going through it. Couple two units back to back with metal couplers and stock slips and you will definitely cause a short.
Click to expand...

Mark, that switcher has the Kaydee plastic coupler boxes installed on it. That'll work right?? :eek:
 
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