What brand makes the best turnouts?

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.




Turn-out's effective radius

Hello there,


I was wanting to start a new thread asking this question, but I thought why clutter the place when there is a thread currently going on about turn-outs.

The question is somewhat of-topic, but its about turn-outs anyway. Some turn-outs come with a number, i e, #4,#6,#8 etc etc. While I know what the number means, I have been told that #4 should be regarded as 18" radius ans #6 as 22" so on and so forth. At the same time I've heard that turn out #4 switch has an 'effective' radius of 24":confused:.

Can someone enlighten me in this regard?

Thanks in advance!


Diesel-Electric.
 
Diesel-Electric said:
Hello there,


I was wanting to start a new thread asking this question, but I thought why clutter the place when there is a thread currently going on about turn-outs.

The question is somewhat of-topic, but its about turn-outs anyway. Some turn-outs come with a number, i e, #4,#6,#8 etc etc. While I know what the number means, I have been told that #4 should be regarded as 18" radius ans #6 as 22" so on and so forth. At the same time I've heard that turn out #4 switch has an 'effective' radius of 24":confused:.

Can someone enlighten me in this regard?

Thanks in advance!


Diesel-Electric.
Click to expand...

That is a very good question, I was wondering the same thing!
 
The turnout number refers to the size. The smaller the turnout number, the sharper the turnout. On a #4 turnout, the diverging route moves away one inch for every four inches on the straight side; a #6 turnout has a one in six inch ratio, which means it is not as sharp but does take up more space since it is longer.

For sectional track. you can consider the #4 turnout to be like an 18" radius curve and the #6 turnout to be like a 22" radius curve.

Best regards,
Brian
 
BRS Hobbies said:
The turnout number refers to the size. The smaller the turnout number, the sharper the turnout. On a #4 turnout, the diverging route moves away one inch for every four inches on the straight side; a #6 turnout has a one in six inch ratio, which means it is not as sharp but does take up more space since it is longer.

For sectional track. you can consider the #4 turnout to be like an 18" radius curve and the #6 turnout to be like a 22" radius curve.

Best regards,
Brian
Click to expand...

So a #8 turnout would be like a 24" radius curve?
 
Thank You BRS Hobbies.

I am aware that the number represents the distance it moves forward per inch of divergence.

I've also heard about #4 been the equivalent of a 18" radius. But I've also being told that #4 turnout has an 'effective' radius of 24".

I have noticed this on the RTS layout planner. It does seem to have a larger radius (the #4 turn-out) than 24".

What I like to know, is this 'effective' radius thing!


Thanks again!


Diesel-Electric
 


FYI
According to the NMRA's website on standards and recommended practices of turnouts, the movable part of the turn out, the "switch" IOW has a radius of 43" for the #4, 5, & 6! However the closure radius, (the curve between the movable "switch", and the frog) is 15" for the #4, 26" for the #5, and 43" for the #6.

Nevermind that each of these radii should be of certain lengths throughout each turnout. I find it easier to just to layout each turnout that I hand lay by the frog angles and then "bend in" with what is close to a proper radius through the entire turnout up to the frog. Past the frogs, all rails should be straight.

Now are yall even more confused?:);)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Most nicer turnouts have a straight diverging leg. Meaning that it does not start the curve for you, it's merely an angle off the straight. I believe Atlas snap switches have a curved diverging leg that is the start of an 18 inch radius. Those and Peco code 100 turnouts are the ones with a curved diverging legs. Obviously I have limited knowledge on this subject. Hopefully someone else has a better way of explaining it!
 
A couple of years ago the NMRA ran tests on several commercial brands of turnouts to see how close they came within NMRA standards. The best were Micro-Engineering, and Fast Traks. They were dead-on. The others were from close to completely outside the standards.

They did however note that most of the divergent turnouts were compromises made to improve the ability of the turnouts to handle the majority of the different wheel and flange standards that are still out there.

They also noted that with some tuning up of the turnouts that they could all be turned into very reliable functioning turnouts.
 
I have been modelling since 1972 and have used Shinaro, Atlas, Lima but without doubt Peco is by far the best! I have Peco turnouts that have been in service for 25 years on three or four layouts and are still perfect. I am now in the process of changing from code 100 to code 83 on the mainline and code 75 in the yards. One of the big advantage with Peco is that the have a spring on the throw bar which allows them to be used straight out of the box without any additional throws. Always Peco!!
 
Cjcrescent said:
A couple of years ago the NMRA ran tests on several commercial brands of turnouts to see how close they came within NMRA standards. The best were Micro-Engineering, and Fast Traks. They were dead-on. The others were from close to completely outside the standards.

They did however note that most of the divergent turnouts were compromises made to improve the ability of the turnouts to handle the majority of the different wheel and flange standards that are still out there.

They also noted that with some tuning up of the turnouts that they could all be turned into very reliable functioning turnouts.
Click to expand...
I love the ME turnouts on my N scale layout - code 55 all the way. The ones I use are the older non-DCC friendly ones.

On HO I use the more expensive Atlas code 83 turnouts. They do need some tuning to make them operate consistently. Tuning of where the points meet the stock rails, tightening up of the rivets used as hinges, and powering of the frogs. I've not had problems (yet) with the frogs being too high. One thing I do is hard-solder the point rails to a new throwbar - not nuts with the way they flop around on the stock bar.
 
Tortoise switch machines work great with Peco.

That's what we use. Code 100 Peco switches, code 100 Atlas flex track, and Tortoise switch machines.

You need to remove the Peco spring and use the Tortoise to keep the points lined up. I also use a little stronger wire instead of the wire that comes with the Tortoise. Keeps the points held tighter. Stronger wire like this (Piano Wire)


Did the original poster ever mention what code track he is using? Big difference. Peco makes both code 100 and 83, but hopefully the original poster knows about different rail codes.
 


Thanks for the info. I'll be using code 83. I plan on using atlas code 83 flextrack. Any issues with compatibility between the two or with peco code 83 in general? I was going to upgrade to the piano wire on the tortoises. I also am going to be using a walthers code 83 double crossover and I've heard that if I butt a peco turnout up to that there may be some shimming issues. At those points (if that is the case) I may use a couple walthers turnouts to make it easier. (They will crossover to a 3rd and 4th track).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top