Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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I got creative on getting wheelsets and trucks painted, I pushed the assembly line method a little here:

mass production r.jpg


I used the rust auto primer color, I could work them over some more but think this is fine for now...

a few wheelsets r.jpg


Worked over these three freight cars today

ready to assemble r.jpg


Here are a couple on the track

completed projects.jpg


I somehow got a smudge on the tank car, it will have to stay.

I have about 40 left to do, I wonder if I should tweak the wheelset color? I think it could be a bit darker, however the light here is a bit harsh.

Thanks for looking and the comments -- Dave LASM
 


CambriaArea51 said:
The rust is a good base color. Adding grimy black, earth, and dark rust in light coats to have a layered effect. You don't coat each layer, just as a highlight effect. Airbrush or powders can be used. Dull coat after powders. View attachment 190400View attachment 190401View attachment 190402
Click to expand...
Those look great. My trucks do not show very prominently, however.

I will not be adding the airbrush to my train room that is a bridge too far.

Thanks for commenting !

Dave LASM
 
AemJaY1 said:
All my Liquid Pigments are from AK

And my Airbrush is from Harder and Steenbeck.
Iam using a 0.4 needle if i remember correct, and my presure power is on 2 psi?
---

or are liquid pigments added just with a brush?
Click to expand...
I have some Rust and Streaking effects from AK that are enamels that I apply per instructions with a brush. Thinned enough with Mineral spirits they probably could be air brushed.

The only AK pigments i have are a powder that I could turn liquid with enough mineral spirits. I’m not sure I could thin them enough to air brush.

But I’m not sure we are talking about the same thing, sorry Jay!
 
ak-stuff.jpg

@TLOC this is my stuff. well not everything but i know the pigments in the boxes are dry. but i alsso have some liquid pigments. but maybe i have to get some acrylic colors to use with the airbrush to do the weathering. i mean the colors you are using on your freights for the lower part of the car are just thin acrylic colors? right?

or maybe iam totally confused and mixing up stuff haha.

layout_003.jpg

if you zoom in on this picture u can see all the liquid pigments.

sry to overtake this thread for this :)

cheers
jay
 
logandsawman said:
I got creative on getting wheelsets and trucks painted, I pushed the assembly line method a little here:

View attachment 190382

I used the rust auto primer color, I could work them over some more but think this is fine for now...

View attachment 190383

Worked over these three freight cars today

View attachment 190384

Here are a couple on the track

View attachment 190385

I somehow got a smudge on the tank car, it will have to stay.

I have about 40 left to do, I wonder if I should tweak the wheelset color? I think it could be a bit darker, however the light here is a bit harsh.

Thanks for looking and the comments -- Dave LASM
Click to expand...
Dave, I agree with Tom. A very good start but take another step. I would take a dark umber or a brownish rust color and do a dry brush technique on the wheel sets and truck frames. Tom says powders and that will work also. Probably not even a minute more work on a set. Then a matte clear finish to seal.

The wheels and the board they are on? Just a slit in the wood to hold the axle while you weather the wheel faces? That is very efficient…
 
AemJaY1 said:
View attachment 190500

@TLOC this is my stuff. well not everything but i know the pigments in the boxes are dry. but i alsso have some liquid pigments. but maybe i have to get some acrylic colors to use with the airbrush to do the weathering. i mean the colors you are using on your freights for the lower part of the car are just thin acrylic colors? right?

or maybe iam totally confused and mixing up stuff haha.

View attachment 190501

if you zoom in on this picture u can see all the liquid pigments.

sry to overtake this thread for this :)

cheers
jay
Click to expand...
Jay, Absolutely nothing to be sorry about. We are all here to learn and enjoy the weathering works of others. If you don’t ask the questions how we will we learn?

If you want to try to air brush them make sure they are thinned enough with a mineral spirit or the AK thinner. I’d be interested how or if they spray (they should). MAKE SURE though you know how to do a complete cleaning of your air brush

Great shop space

Let us know your results and we love pictures here!
 
logandsawman said:
Those look great. My trucks do not show very prominently, however.

I will not be adding the airbrush to my train room that is a bridge too far.

Thanks for commenting !

Dave LASM
Click to expand...
A bridge too far!

I totally understand that. You have definitely demonstrated you can yield a paint brush and lots of my weathering is applied as washes with a brush. There are lots of YouTube videos that show different hand brushing techniques with dry brushing being a big one

We all have our own methods and none are more right than another. Just remember if your not having fun, you are doing it wrong…
 


@TLOC ok will try this out. and yes i know how to take my airbrush a part to clean it the complete way. the first time i did that it was a challenge to get it back together ahahaha. but i always clean my airbrush after painting, complete.

but i still think i have to buy some more acrylics, like burnt umber and stuff.

maybe i ask ALL here, what are your 5 go to colors for weathering?
 
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As usual I wanted a picture of the stripped down KYLE covered hopper and didn’t take it.

It’s almost done! I did strip both sides. One side is much lighter than the other as I wanted to give the client a choice. He chose both as is. The logo sign was always meant to be fairly clean as it is the way Intermountain Model Rail did it as the logo is already really faded. The client over night asked me to grime up the logo as the green stands out too much. I will work on that over the next few days

The car was inspected, cleaned and faded. Tamiya xf2 white and Isopropyl Alcohol with 2 drops of a light green added (no notes which green I used) in an air brush. Sealed with a VMS gloss varnish as I then used Abteilung502 oils ( burnt umber) as both a wash thinned with mineral spirits and straight for spots. Then sealed with AK Interactive’s matte varnish. The roof hatches are supposedly fiberglass and while the hinges and locks will rust (dark umber) the hatch covers will not. I took 2 drops of Vallejo Air sky gray thinned 50/50 with wet water (water with drops of dawn soap) dabbed it on and while still wet dabbed lightly a paper towel to soak up the wetness. Then another spray of AK Interactive’s matte varnish.

Dark rust pigment from Vallejo was brushed across the entire top of the car, scrubbed in and seal coated. There are a couple spots on the heavier side I want to touch up.
 
TLOC said:
Dave, I agree with Tom. A very good start but take another step. I would take a dark umber or a brownish rust color and do a dry brush technique on the wheel sets and truck frames. Tom says powders and that will work also. Probably not even a minute more work on a set. Then a matte clear finish to seal.

The wheels and the board they are on? Just a slit in the wood to hold the axle while you weather the wheel faces? That is very efficient…
Click to expand...
Tom, I just used a piece of lath. I took out the jig saw and cut slits the correct diameter and deep enough to hold the wheels or trucks. Easy peasy.

Took about 5 minutes to make the board. I just leave the extras on there and will be installing them as need be.

I found this prototype photo on the internet, for Bettendorf. Lots of mine are arch bar type. Same idea as far as color goes, I think:

wheelsets.png


Looks like a pretty good match to me.

Thanks for commenting - Dave LASM
 
AemJaY1 said:
@TLOC ok will try this out. and yes i know how to take my airbrush a part to clean it the complete way. the first time i did that it was a challenge to get it back together ahahaha. but i always clean my airbrush after painting, complete.

but i still think i have to buy some more acrylics, like burnt umber and stuff.

maybe i ask ALL here, what are your 5 go to colors for weathering?
Click to expand...
Good question. I have had discussions with myself what colors I would buy if I had to start over. I am heading to the bench and I will look at what I would do…

As to air brush cleaning! I pull the needles once or twice a week and clean it with Isopropyl Alcohol. Full disassembly is maybe once a month to 6 weeks
 
logandsawman said:
Tom, I just used a piece of lath. I took out the jig saw and cut slits the correct diameter and deep enough to hold the wheels or trucks. Easy peasy.

Took about 5 minutes to make the board. I just leave the extras on there and will be installing them as need be.

I found this prototype photo on the internet, for Bettendorf. Lots of mine are arch bar type. Same idea as far as color goes, I think:

View attachment 190524

Looks like a pretty good match to me.

Thanks for commenting - Dave LASM
Click to expand...
There is a prototype for everything, well done

Thanks for the answer about your lath board
 
TLOC said:
Good question. I have had discussions with myself what colors I would buy if I had to start over. I am heading to the bench and I will look at what I would do…

As to air brush cleaning! I pull the needles once or twice a week and clean it with Isopropyl Alcohol. Full disassembly is maybe once a month to 6 weeks
Click to expand...
oh really?
Well i airbrush maybe 1-2 a month or less. depends on the time and stuff iam doing. but it looks like iam cleaning my airbrush "way too much" :D
 
Hi, I have often thought about if I had to start over what paints and colors would I buy again.

Tamiya Acrylic that I use the must of:
IMG_5817.jpeg

Pigments:
IMG_5818.jpeg

Vallejo
IMG_5819.jpeg
Varnishes/clear finishes:
IMG_5821.jpeg


But, if I could only have 5 colors it would be the Vallejo ones

71.040 burnt umber
#302 dark rust
71.001 white
71.056 panzer dark Gray
71.290 US earth brown

Your thoughts please and your choices

IMG_5819.jpeg
 
AemJaY1 said:
oh really?
Well i airbrush maybe 1-2 a month or less. depends on the time and stuff iam doing. but it looks like iam cleaning my airbrush "way too much" :D
Click to expand...
Not necessarily true. I usually air brush Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol and heavily thinned, so it’s like self cleaning the airbrush.

Remember, I spray something almost every day that I am home so with the brushes in constant use it’s just part of the routine and as I mentioned above Tamiya seems to self clean when I thin with the Isopropyl Alcohol

While I have moved away from air brushing with the Vallejo brands, Air, Model Color and Panzer Aces, I still do occasionally spray them. They are thinned mainly with water or the #71.161 air brush thinner from Vallejo. After using them I will ALWAYS pull and clean the needles.

I have an assortment of air brushes but have become close friends with 3 of them:
IMG_5822.jpeg

Paasche VL0922
Badger Xtreme Patriot 105
Badger Krome Renegade

The Badger Krome no matter what I spray gets a more thorough cleaning after every use. It’s a tie between the Paasche and the Patriot as to which is easier to clean
 


AemJaY1 said:
maybe i ask ALL here, what are your 5 go to colors for weathering
Click to expand...
That's a subjective question, what colour is the car ? lighter cars need darker colours, and darker cars need less and more toned colours, are you heading for a rust bucket, is the car wood or metal, what type of car is it, flat, gondola, spine, box etc.? how "old" is it supposed to look, whats the general environment the car would usually travel through, and then there's fading. There's a whole range of things to consider when you weather something, 5 colours simply isn't enough

I counted TomO's collection that he posted, 20 in total.
 
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