Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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CPR Zee said:
Hi



Hi Tom, thanks for commenting.
I just find starting the base coat beginning with the roof first works for me.
I always start a car roof with a wash, and work my way down. I will come back to the roof later as I switch to different mediums like oils and powders to add grime and rust effects such as surface rusting with a sponge or a grime wash over the rust work or to add rust or grime streaking from the roof edges down the sides and ends of the car. There are times I also finish up with the roof last as you and others do.
I guess I kind of tackle a project a little differently each time.. lol. Maybe is just how I feal at that particular time.
Also just the selection of effects I may use on a car or loco may also have a bearing on the order of events.

Also one take away for me so far was using the Vallejo Acrylic Varnish for the first time, I am sort of regretting using it. Typically I would spray the car or loco with Testors Dulcote in between mediums which is enamel based this will seal and protect the the finish from any IPA work I might engage in later. What I mean by that is.... I would sometimes use some alcohol to remove mediums as a part of the weathering process or just to clean up some area that did not turn out as I expected. With the acrylic clear coat the alcohol will just eat right through that and disturb any work prior to the last clear application.
I think Boomer made a great statement once way back saying that, ( maybe you can correct me if I'm mistaken ), but weathering sometimes, is more about how much you remove rather add.

Z
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Interesting about the Vallejo Varnishes. I recently purchased some to try!
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I have read and been told the Matt finish is second to none. I will break out the practice bodies, thanks.

My go to lately has been Tamiya xf86 flat clear
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ONLY because IMO it does not seem to attack the Pan Pastels I use.

The difference between model weatherers and the pro artist is supposedly the way a pro can recover from a mistake.

I believe you are correct on the Boomer comment!
 
The roof is definitely a work in process
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Lots of room for more colors but it gives me a good base to move on from, it will be in the dehydrator till 3 Saturday (24 hours) afternoon. Then I will hit it with Tamiya xf86 flat clear. Ignore the side panels as I worked on them after these pictures. Broke a Stirup!

Added side panel pictures
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Apply the colors and then remove it!
 
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TLOC said:
The roof is definitely a work in process
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Lots of room for more colors but it gives me a good base to move on from, it will be in the dehydrator till 3 Saturday (24 hours) afternoon. Then I will hit it with Tamiya xf86 flat clear. Ignore the side panels as I worked on them after these pictures. Broke a Stirup!

Added side panel pictures
View attachment 185105View attachment 185106Apply the colors and then remove it!
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The video in post 1,779 shows how roofs weather differently. Give it a look, may help you with doing these cars.
 
CPR Zee said:
Very Nice, I have some hopper


Nice! I have a bunch of hoppers that have been wanting some attention!

Z
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Thank you. I have a thread Grain train build page 5 in the Painting, Detailing, and Weathering. Plus there are some other pics in this thread that folks have added to give you an idea of how they were done.
 
Hey Tom,
Question re your oil paint drying time?
I am using Blue label Turpenoid as the thinning agent for my oils, washes, pin washes etc…what are you using?
Usually I can work on the car within an hour of the oil application.
Eg. Spray XF-86 over the oil work etc…the Turpenoid I believe acts as a drying agent..it evaporates very quickly
Dave
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I am avoiding the weathering bench so far today. There has been no desire to do anything in the modeling category yesterday and so far today.

I use an odorless mineral spirit ( brand not remembered) but I will venture to the bench and get some pictures of the can I have.

If I use the dehydrator (on medium speed) the oils are usually dry in 3 hours, if I don’t use the dehydrator maybe 12 to 18 hours . I am using Abteilung502 oils and I put a dab on a piece of uncoated cardboard to leach out the oil for about 30 minutes. I then create a wash. Put some of the oil paint into a cup and add the odorless mineral spirits.
 


While the mojo for weathering seems to be on vacation I still need to get some stuff done

Today I have 21 well cars I can start on. Inspect, remove the truck sets, clean and spray the first matte clear coat





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4 Kato 3 car sets and 9 individual Walthers well cars
 
Tom,
I used to use mineral spirits.. still have some…use MS when the Turpenoid runs out
An armour modeller recommended the blue label Turpenoid..
I used to pre-dab the oils on cardboard to soak up the oil…
I forgot to do it somewhere along the line, and to be honest now I can’t tell the difference..or if makes a difference…
If I give a boxcar an oil wash or panel line work I can seal the oils with a clear coat in about an hour no probs
Dave

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I have decided to go steam punk
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I am advised by the well known modeller April Loof that it is all the rage
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And she promised a full straight spread in her magazine jacket
She got her words mixed up and said she would get me in her straight jacket but I know what she meant
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She mentioned a mask like the figures too…..cool or what
 

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AirbrushNo5 said:
Tom,
I used to use mineral spirits.. still have some…use MS when the Turpenoid runs out
An armour modeller recommended the blue label Turpenoid..
I used to pre-dab the oils on cardboard to soak up the oil…
I forgot to do it somewhere along the line, and to be honest now I can’t tell the difference..or if makes a difference…
If I give a boxcar an oil wash or panel line work I can seal the oils with a clear coat in about an hour no probs
Dave

View attachment 185273
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A few questions, if I may:

1. Do you (either of you) spray oils? I’m looking at doing certain fades or color tweaks with oils. Or do you wash the car body down with mineral spirits/turpenoid, and do a “dot fade”, counting on mineral spirits’ tendency to spread all over creation?

2. I’ve read that dot fades are done over clear flat (promotes spread of mineral spirits) and do pin washes/line washes over gloss (apparently to reduce “capillary” action and thereby keep the wash localized). Do you guys approach it this way?

3. What is turpenoid, that mineral spirits are not?
 
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C&OMtnMan said:
A few questions, if I may:

1. Do you (either of you) spray oils? I’m looking at doing certain fades or color tweaks with oils. Or do you wash the car body down with mineral spirits/turpenoid, and do a “dot fade”, counting on mineral spirits’ tendency to spread all over creation?

2. I’ve read that dot fades are done over clear flat (promotes spread of mineral spirits) and do pin washes/line washes over gloss (apparently to reduce “capillary” action and thereby keep the wash localized). Do you guys approach it this way?

3. What is turpenoid, that mineral spirits are not?
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1. I have not sprayed oils

2a. I have done oil dot fades with both gloss and matte finishes 1st applied. Honestly, I didn’t notice if there was any difference. I am not a big user of the dot fade but I only use oils on my own equipment

2b. for panel lining I gloss coat 1st then panel line then a matte clear

2c. I clean models a couple different ways but have never used mineral spirits for cleaning.

I use Isopropyl Alcohol in either the 70% or 91% concentration. 99% is too hard for me to purchase locally so when I do I hoard it for stripping use…

About 25% of the time and with ALL tankers I will clean with dawn dish soap and hot water. Rinsing with hot water.

I clean truck frames and wheel faces with Isopropyl Alcohol and a tooth brush

3. I have never purchased or even seen odorless turpenoid that I am aware of, so I can’t answer you on this one
 
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I have inspected, cleaned and added a clear finish to the 21 well cars I posted above.

The 9 single well cars are going to be graffitied and tagged. Those I sprayed with a VMS gloss varnish as I will be using decals for the graffiti.

I will custom tag the cars after they are weathered and a matte clear finish is added. After the tagging I will spray another matte clear finish

The other 12 cars were sprayed with Tamiya xf86 flat clear
 
I don’t spray oils…
I fade using Tamiya Flat White…thinned to the max
My oils 99% of the time are going over the flat fade coat…sometimes directly applied from the tube or in varying dilution with blue lable Turpenoid
Turpenoid is sold in art supply stores…
Mineral Spirit is sold in hardware stores..
(Sorry I can’t go into the chemistry of each product … just I find one easier to work with)

PS. Once I had mineral spirits attack/melt the plastic under the paint on a Dragon tank kit… never had Turpenoid react this way

💥 Forgot to add an IMPORTANT difference:
946 ml of Home Depot Solvable Brand Mineral Spirits is $9.97 🇨🇦
946 ml of De Serre Turpenoid is $31.99 🇨🇦
$7.34 🇺🇸 vs $23.57 🇺🇸
 
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Jaz avalley said:
I have decided to go steam punk
View attachment 185274View attachment 185275View attachment 185276
I am advised by the well known modeller April Loof that it is all the rage
View attachment 185277View attachment 185277
View attachment 185278And she promised a full straight spread in her magazine jacket
She got her words mixed up and said she would get me in her straight jacket but I know what she meant
View attachment 185279
She mentioned a mask like the figures too…..cool or what
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Jaz
Love the colors, the mix, heck everything about this
 
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