Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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So I mostly finished up on side "A".... I didn't go full bore on the car being totally beat up as these cars can suffer some pretty severe road wear and tear. I took it to a comfortable level.

I did the rust streaking using powders this time. I typically use oils for streaking but I watched one of Dansrailroad2011 videos on rust streaking a while back with powders and water. It turned out ok, I found that the powder after drying can be later worked up and altered as Dan mentioned, but on a painted car such as this ( the fade coat of paint ) and also that this is a light colored car also, that this does stain and is very difficult to remove. For his demonstration he had used a car that was like a deep C&O Blue if I can recall and was being applied to a factory painted car which the paint is much more robust and might not be prone to staining as this was. All that being said, I just had to be careful on where and how much of the powder/water I was laying down.

I also added a very light, light Vallejo Model Air wash of Burnt Umber, just to tone down the fade a smidge.

I then added oils to the roof and top edges (door tracks) along both sides of the car with a sponge... just stippling it along the edges and the top of the roof panels with burnt umber and sienna.
With some Burnt Umber again, I stippled some light surface rust on the side panel on the PC logo and ends of the car.
Also followed up with some pastel weathering along the lower door rails, doors and the bottom edge of the sidewall.
I also added some rust patches on the side wall of the car with some Vallejo Model Air paint full strength, and did the streaking with some powders.
This is the first time I have attempted free handing some graffiti with some ultra fine "Sharpie" oil paint markers... so take it easy on me!

Cheers.
Z
 


CPR Zee said:
View attachment 185344

So I mostly finished up on side "A".... I didn't go full bore on the car being totally beat up as these cars can suffer some pretty severe road wear and tear. I took it to a comfortable level.

I did the rust streaking using powders this time. I typically use oils for streaking but I watched one of Dansrailroad2011 videos on rust streaking a while back with powders and water. It turned out ok, I found that the powder after drying can be later worked up and altered as Dan mentioned, but on a painted car such as this ( the fade coat of paint ) and also that this is a light colored car also, that this does stain and is very difficult to remove. For his demonstration he had used a car that was like a deep C&O Blue if I can recall and was being applied to a factory painted car which the paint is much more robust and might not be prone to staining as this was. All that being said, I just had to be careful on where and how much of the powder/water I was laying down.

I also added a very light, light Vallejo Model Air wash of Burnt Umber, just to tone down the fade a smidge.

I then added oils to the roof and top edges (door tracks) along both sides of the car with a sponge... just stippling it along the edges and the top of the roof panels with burnt umber and sienna.
With some Burnt Umber again, I stippled some light surface rust on the side panel on the PC logo and ends of the car.
Also followed up with some pastel weathering along the lower door rails, doors and the bottom edge of the sidewall.
I also added some rust patches on the side wall of the car with some Vallejo Model Air paint full strength, and did the streaking with some powders.
This is the first time I have attempted free handing some graffiti with some ultra fine "Sharpie" oil paint markers... so take it easy on me!

Cheers.
Z
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The car looks great. Thanks for explaining your process.
 
AirbrushNo5 said:
Tom,
I used to use mineral spirits.. still have some…use MS when the Turpenoid runs out
An armour modeller recommended the blue label Turpenoid..
I used to pre-dab the oils on cardboard to soak up the oil…
I forgot to do it somewhere along the line, and to be honest now I can’t tell the difference..or if makes a difference…
If I give a boxcar an oil wash or panel line work I can seal the oils with a clear coat in about an hour no probs
Dave

View attachment 185273
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Great looking gondola! Nice job, I need one of those in the CPR road name too, is that a Rapido Tom?
 
CPR Zee said:
Lookin good... the washes are great eh. Nice job so far!
Tom have you tried the sponge and oils for added surface rust effects, works wonders, great tool!
I'm really digging the scenery btw, trees look great!

Z
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Thanks Z. 95% of my trees on the layout are wire armature based custom trees. I started making my own trees as I couldn’t find decent looking trees that towered above the rail cars. I followed YouTube content provider Luke Towan’s method of wire tree making.

I have used the sponge and oil method for rust effects and honestly I’ve never done it well. I prefer using pigments to create surface rust

enjoy the day
 




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I am satisfied with 4 of the 9 53’ Walthers well cars. A couple touch ups for the weathering and then a clear gloss coat will sprayed, hopefully Sunday. Then tags and graffiti. Yes there is a duplicated number in this batch of 4. One of DTTX 620643 has been traded to a friend who will be over within the hour.

I think you can figure which car will have the touch up work done
 
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