Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
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Somewhere, some currency defacement Nazi is sizing you up for federal charges…
Deny everything!!!
I actually did think of it and let’em come
My take is it’s similar to burying money in a coffee can in the back yard. It will always be there.
It‘s the cheapest method I know of that works
I was going to cut up some credit cards but I didn’t have enough…
Car is looking great!
That is nice work on the PC 86’ boxcar
I find it interesting you started on the roof of this car. Is that your normal beginning? If so why?
I do roofs last as if there is any streaking from the roof it’s easy FOR ME to blend it into the car sides. Differences, it makes the world go round
Sounds good Mike, I will carry on this way. Enticing people into weathering is great, all it is.... is an experiment!
Thanks for commenting.
Z
Nice... I did one of those cars not long ago too! I did not fancy the roof color so I gave it a coat of more of a metallic silverish color to simulate more of a zinc galvanized type roof panel, which I weathered over anyways.
Have fun man!
Z
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santafewillie
Same Ol' Buzzard
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thanks Willie for sharing the info on that video.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pictures! Any chance you can give us a run down on the materials used to create itWanted to do this on one of my tank cars for quite some time now.
View attachment 184629
View attachment 184630
View attachment 184631
TLOC
Well-Known Member
For those following along you realize I am very disappointed in the weight of the 3 car articulated well car set from Atlas. There is nowhere IMO to add weight to the empty car without interrupting the good looks and nice details of the cars.
So 3 ounces of weight added to the floor of a container in the form of USA pennies. The cars now track wonderfully forward and back. Not the ideal solution but a practical one. While I would like to run these empty in the empty unit train it is not unusual to see containers in cars of a mostly empty stack train. I have done this same solution to the 5 Evemodel well cars I have
So 3 ounces of weight added to the floor of a container in the form of USA pennies. The cars now track wonderfully forward and back. Not the ideal solution but a practical one. While I would like to run these empty in the empty unit train it is not unusual to see containers in cars of a mostly empty stack train. I have done this same solution to the 5 Evemodel well cars I have
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C&OMtnMan
Well-Known Member
Somewhere, some currency defacement Nazi is sizing you up for federal charges…
Deny everything!!!
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I figured someone would say something like that. LOL…
I actually did think of it and let’em come
My take is it’s similar to burying money in a coffee can in the back yard. It will always be there.
It‘s the cheapest method I know of that works
I was going to cut up some credit cards but I didn’t have enough…
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Well my morning has turned! UPS and USPS tracking didn’t show anything being delivered this morning. But the ringing door bell got me to the front door. My best weathering client who lives about 30 miles away was there with 2 big boxes.
He is a BIG BIG intermodal stack train, container and auto rack guy. Another 21 well cars and 5 Autoracks he dropped off asking IF he could pick them up Easter Sunday morning? I jokingly said what no containers and his reply, “I didn’t want to bring them in until you said yes”! 45 containers he went back out to bring in
Containers are easy, well cars are ok IF I’m in the mood but Autoracks and me just don’t hit it off. He came downstairs and looked at the well cars on the layout I’ve been doing for myself and a friend. He suggested a trade and I said no. There’s a big difference in weight between Atlas well cars and the Walthers and Kato car sets. I have 2 sets of the Kato 3 car 53’ sets for myself and 3 sets for a great friend and client. I had 3 sets of the 40’ Walthers 5 car units also on the layout. There were also 2 sets of Atlas 3 car 53’ well cars. Each car had 2 weathered containers in them, 72 total. I did not sell those!
So, after texting my friend about selling his 3 Kato sets and 1 of the Walthers sets he texted back without asking about pricing, yes! So, 36 well cars finished this week for myself and a friend are out the door. I don’t have to worry about trying to get more well cars done by next Sunday, he’s fine with my 6/week lead time for those now that he has another train. 5 Autoracks though I will start sometime today.
Awhile back Mara asked if was easy for me to sell my stuff? I said then and I write it again today! I hold no sentimental attachment to my toys UNLESS, they are a gift from family. This decision was made easier as 1 the money was great and 2 I have 3 more Kato sets coming Monday plus I have 2 sets on the shelves waiting for the next 3 sets!
He was eyeing up the 20 reefers I have been working on and I told him, those are commission work and not sellable! All are the sound cars that STX currently is sold out of. I truly dislike the sound cars but he loved when I put 5 on the layout and fired them up. The racket ( and they roll terribly) to me is unneeded but he was enthralled. I did tell him about the pre-orders ST is doing right now for the next run…
I envision some different cars in the future from him
He is a BIG BIG intermodal stack train, container and auto rack guy. Another 21 well cars and 5 Autoracks he dropped off asking IF he could pick them up Easter Sunday morning? I jokingly said what no containers and his reply, “I didn’t want to bring them in until you said yes”! 45 containers he went back out to bring in
Containers are easy, well cars are ok IF I’m in the mood but Autoracks and me just don’t hit it off. He came downstairs and looked at the well cars on the layout I’ve been doing for myself and a friend. He suggested a trade and I said no. There’s a big difference in weight between Atlas well cars and the Walthers and Kato car sets. I have 2 sets of the Kato 3 car 53’ sets for myself and 3 sets for a great friend and client. I had 3 sets of the 40’ Walthers 5 car units also on the layout. There were also 2 sets of Atlas 3 car 53’ well cars. Each car had 2 weathered containers in them, 72 total. I did not sell those!
So, after texting my friend about selling his 3 Kato sets and 1 of the Walthers sets he texted back without asking about pricing, yes! So, 36 well cars finished this week for myself and a friend are out the door. I don’t have to worry about trying to get more well cars done by next Sunday, he’s fine with my 6/week lead time for those now that he has another train. 5 Autoracks though I will start sometime today.
Awhile back Mara asked if was easy for me to sell my stuff? I said then and I write it again today! I hold no sentimental attachment to my toys UNLESS, they are a gift from family. This decision was made easier as 1 the money was great and 2 I have 3 more Kato sets coming Monday plus I have 2 sets on the shelves waiting for the next 3 sets!
He was eyeing up the 20 reefers I have been working on and I told him, those are commission work and not sellable! All are the sound cars that STX currently is sold out of. I truly dislike the sound cars but he loved when I put 5 on the layout and fired them up. The racket ( and they roll terribly) to me is unneeded but he was enthralled. I did tell him about the pre-orders ST is doing right now for the next run…
I envision some different cars in the future from him
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Well hello!
Starting a custom graffiti piece for one of my own but if it turns out ok it will head to EBay
Scaletrains 82’ reefer. I usually do custom graffiti by hand with a brush
This background was done with the air brush after I masked off the space. After a couple of hours drying I removed the masking
I need to let this dry before I add a mask for another color. I’m hoping for later Monday afternoon if not maybe Tuesday but for sure Wednesday
Starting a custom graffiti piece for one of my own but if it turns out ok it will head to EBay
Scaletrains 82’ reefer. I usually do custom graffiti by hand with a brush
This background was done with the air brush after I masked off the space. After a couple of hours drying I removed the masking
I need to let this dry before I add a mask for another color. I’m hoping for later Monday afternoon if not maybe Tuesday but for sure Wednesday
TLOC
Well-Known Member
3 box cars for a change from White reefer cars with graffiti, tags and some dirt. No tags and no graffiti but there will be streaking rust and lots of grime!
The cars were inspected, trucks and wheels removed, cleaned and then all were sprayed with Tamiya xf86 flat clear thinned 20% with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. Then I faded each car with Tamiya X2 white thinned 20% to 80% Isopropyl Alcohol with a few drops of xf21 flat clear base added. For each car I added 10% of the car color to the fade mix, so for the Railbox car I added XF-3 yellow. The BNSF I added Xf52 flat Earth and for the ECC I added XF3 yellow mixed with XF65 Field Gray. Then I hit each with another spray of thinned XF86 flat clear
The wheels and trucks were painted using 100% Vallejo Model Color burnt umber #70.941, then #70.872 Chocolate Brown applied in a dabbing motion with a brush while the Burnt Umber was still damp. The trucks were done with #302 Vallejo Panzer Ace Dark rust also applied in a dabbing motion
Next up after dinner tonight is a weathering base for each car, it will be a Vallejo color of grime. I am playing mixologist while I type this up. The forum is still taking a while to load but I know Bob says he’s working on that!
The wheels and trucks were painted using 100% Vallejo Model Color burnt umber #70.941, then #70.872 Chocolate Brown applied in a dabbing motion with a brush while the Burnt Umber was still damp. The trucks were done with #302 Vallejo Panzer Ace Dark rust also applied in a dabbing motion
Next up after dinner tonight is a weathering base for each car, it will be a Vallejo color of grime. I am playing mixologist while I type this up. The forum is still taking a while to load but I know Bob says he’s working on that!
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
It’s not a mistake but an experience gone wrong. IPA is a wonderful tool!
CPR Zee
Active Member
New project, not sure on how detailed members get here but I will provide details.
If it gets to be to detailed, let me know... I can cut it back.
I seen a post about a couple weeks ago on someone did a fine job of some weathering on a 86' boxcar, and that really inspired me to do one of my own.
It's a Tangent PC Quad door car.
I typically always start with the roof of a car.
Here I just did 2 round s of the Vallejo Model Air "Burnt Umber" and water mix.
I highlighted some spots with Vallejo Model Air "Wood"
I let the car dry for a day in between coats.
Next was doing a fade on all walls of the car.
I used some basic "Titanium White" acrylic paint and shot it with the airbrush at 20psi, I'd say about 1/3 paint to 2/3 of 50% IPA.
I got a little spatter but not a problem, most likely will disappear with the clear coat and additional weathering.
Next was a coat of Vallejo Matt Varnish out of an aerosol can .
One coat did the job.
Next I masked off the vertical rivet lines on the sides of the car prior to shooting it with the airbrush at 20psi again, 25% "Burnt Umber" to 75% of 50% IPA.
I then did the 4 sets of doors with a wash of the Vallejo "Burnt Umber" and water again.
A few things, I got a little bleed through on the tape lines, a little bit of paint pull off by the barcode board and I kind of regret cleaning of some of the fade from that barcode bar and roof walk warning decals, I should have just left those alone. But I can fix all that.
I have to tackle the other side of the car next.
I would like to add a bit of light sponge and oil effects for rust patches followed by some rust streaking this weekend and see how that turns out.
I will follow up, enjoy the weekend!
Z
If it gets to be to detailed, let me know... I can cut it back.
I seen a post about a couple weeks ago on someone did a fine job of some weathering on a 86' boxcar, and that really inspired me to do one of my own.
It's a Tangent PC Quad door car.
I typically always start with the roof of a car.
Here I just did 2 round s of the Vallejo Model Air "Burnt Umber" and water mix.
I highlighted some spots with Vallejo Model Air "Wood"
I let the car dry for a day in between coats.
Next was doing a fade on all walls of the car.
I used some basic "Titanium White" acrylic paint and shot it with the airbrush at 20psi, I'd say about 1/3 paint to 2/3 of 50% IPA.
I got a little spatter but not a problem, most likely will disappear with the clear coat and additional weathering.
Next was a coat of Vallejo Matt Varnish out of an aerosol can .
One coat did the job.
Next I masked off the vertical rivet lines on the sides of the car prior to shooting it with the airbrush at 20psi again, 25% "Burnt Umber" to 75% of 50% IPA.
I then did the 4 sets of doors with a wash of the Vallejo "Burnt Umber" and water again.
A few things, I got a little bleed through on the tape lines, a little bit of paint pull off by the barcode board and I kind of regret cleaning of some of the fade from that barcode bar and roof walk warning decals, I should have just left those alone. But I can fix all that.
I have to tackle the other side of the car next.
I would like to add a bit of light sponge and oil effects for rust patches followed by some rust streaking this weekend and see how that turns out.
I will follow up, enjoy the weekend!
Z
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migalyto
Well-Known Member
You can never add too many details in this thread! This is what draws us weathering new-comers into trying something like this.
Car is looking great!
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Z, as Mike has written, there is no such thing as too much detail in this thread. Paint formulas are great the way you noted them. I usually use percentages for paint mixing but will also note to the world sometimes it’s just by feel. Pictures are superb and the more the merrier when the speed returns to the forums
That is nice work on the PC 86’ boxcar
I find it interesting you started on the roof of this car. Is that your normal beginning? If so why?
I do roofs last as if there is any streaking from the roof it’s easy FOR ME to blend it into the car sides. Differences, it makes the world go round
CPR Zee
Active Member
Sounds good Mike, I will carry on this way. Enticing people into weathering is great, all it is.... is an experiment!
Thanks for commenting.
Z
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Sitting here at the bench!
This is the next car up. Looking at the plan of attack and thinking Z starts on the roof. Gee, I can start there too! I can carry over the rust streaking along the car sides instead of blending it in after
If it doesn’t work for me, I hav lots of 91% IPA!
Thanks Z for making me think… I
think
If it doesn’t work for me, I hav lots of 91% IPA!
Thanks Z for making me think… I
think
CPR Zee
Active Member
Hi
Hi Tom, thanks for commenting.
I just find starting the base coat beginning with the roof first works for me.
I always start a car roof with a wash, and work my way down. I will come back to the roof later as I switch to different mediums like oils and powders to add grime and rust effects such as surface rusting with a sponge or a grime wash over the rust work or to add rust or grime streaking from the roof edges down the sides and ends of the car. There are times I also finish up with the roof last as you and others do.
I guess I kind of tackle a project a little differently each time.. lol. Maybe is just how I feal at that particular time.
Also just the selection of effects I may use on a car or loco may also have a bearing on the order of events.
Also one take away for me so far was using the Vallejo Acrylic Varnish for the first time, I am sort of regretting using it. Typically I would spray the car or loco with Testors Dulcote in between mediums which is enamel based this will seal and protect the the finish from any IPA work I might engage in later. What I mean by that is.... I would sometimes use some alcohol to remove mediums as a part of the weathering process or just to clean up some area that did not turn out as I expected. With the acrylic clear coat the alcohol will just eat right through that and disturb any work prior to the last clear application.
I think Boomer made a great statement once way back saying that, ( maybe you can correct me if I'm mistaken ), but weathering sometimes, is more about how much you remove rather add.
Z
Hi Tom, thanks for commenting.
I just find starting the base coat beginning with the roof first works for me.
I always start a car roof with a wash, and work my way down. I will come back to the roof later as I switch to different mediums like oils and powders to add grime and rust effects such as surface rusting with a sponge or a grime wash over the rust work or to add rust or grime streaking from the roof edges down the sides and ends of the car. There are times I also finish up with the roof last as you and others do.
I guess I kind of tackle a project a little differently each time.. lol. Maybe is just how I feal at that particular time.
Also just the selection of effects I may use on a car or loco may also have a bearing on the order of events.
Also one take away for me so far was using the Vallejo Acrylic Varnish for the first time, I am sort of regretting using it. Typically I would spray the car or loco with Testors Dulcote in between mediums which is enamel based this will seal and protect the the finish from any IPA work I might engage in later. What I mean by that is.... I would sometimes use some alcohol to remove mediums as a part of the weathering process or just to clean up some area that did not turn out as I expected. With the acrylic clear coat the alcohol will just eat right through that and disturb any work prior to the last clear application.
I think Boomer made a great statement once way back saying that, ( maybe you can correct me if I'm mistaken ), but weathering sometimes, is more about how much you remove rather add.
Z
CPR Zee
Active Member
Sitting here at the bench! View attachment 185065This is the next car up. Looking at the plan of attack and thinking Z starts on the roof. Gee, I can start there too! I can carry over the rust streaking along the car sides instead of blending it in after
If it doesn’t work for me, I hav lots of 91% IPA!
Thanks Z for making me think… I
Nice... I did one of those cars not long ago too! I did not fancy the roof color so I gave it a coat of more of a metallic silverish color to simulate more of a zinc galvanized type roof panel, which I weathered over anyways.
Have fun man!
Z
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Well I figured if I was going to do the roof 1st let’s change it up some more. These are Abteilung502 modeling oil colors instead of my normal Tamiya and Vallejo Arcylics. I use Abteilung on my own stuff but rarely for commission work only because of the oil drying times
Started
out using #abt006 BurntUmber across the roof and a few spots on the side walls! The car is in the dehydrator drying and should still be workable this afternoon. This will not be a complete drying but hoping for 50% dry. The oils take awhile to fully dry even with a dehydrator. I will be dipping a flat brush
in some orderless mineral spirits and dragging the roof color down over the side of the car. This should give a grime/rust background to work with
Started
in some orderless mineral spirits and dragging the roof color down over the side of the car. This should give a grime/rust background to work with
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