Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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Just packaged this guy up. I have another couple to do, same car, same number.

Bachman car from a hobby show in September. Went for $38 plus shipping, maybe the less expensive cars will sell this season. I had to change the Bachman couplers to Kadee whisker #148 metal, my choice. Left the wheels though. A light car that rolls well
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TLOC said:
Chris, that looks good. I took care of the pooling. I usually paint with the object flat but yesterday I painted the car with The body on an angle facing me.
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Thanks, I'm going to use your method for the floor and then switch so (theoretically anyway,) it should give me some nice vertical rust streaks on the inside as well.
 
TLOC said:
Just packaged this guy up. I have another couple to do, same car, same number.

Bachman car from a hobby show in September. Went for $38 plus shipping, maybe the less expensive cars will sell this season. I had to change the Bachman couplers to Kadee whisker #148 metal, my choice. Left the wheels though. A light car that rolls wellView attachment 155918View attachment 155919View attachment 155920View attachment 155922View attachment 155923View attachment 155924
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That, to me, is perfect, it's shows it's age with it's wear and tear, without looking like it's been scrapped, I'm sorry you've actually sold this one, as this is the car that made me want to start weathering. :(

I'm surprised you didn't persuade the owner to let you change the road numbers.
 


Both sides are faded with acceptable coloring. Especially when you compare how black it was! There are a couple issues. When I added the mat clear varnish some of the panels have a crackering effect. I have to think on this one as it has never happened to me before this.

before picture
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after
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Now the closeups, the first 2 picture show that crackly effect to the left and above the main lettering. Just on the one side. Zoom in, it isn’t noticeable on the layout or bench. Any ideas?
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I need to cut that tree down and fix the trunk bark color.

I need to go back inside the gondola and add a more consistent rust effect on the side walls. Better blend the outside side walls.

Even though this car will stay on the layout, this is why I take lots of pictures. Suggestions if you have any. I am going to shoot both sides with another spray of clear coat. The ends have not yet been touched.

This car would never be sent to a client. The outside feels sloppy looking
 
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TLOC said:
Both sides are faded with acceptable coloring. Especially when you compare how black it was! There are a couple issues. When I added the mat clear varnish some of the panels have a crackering effect. I have to think on this one as it has never happened to me before this.

before picture
View attachment 155929
after
View attachment 155936
View attachment 155930Now the closeups, the first 2 picture show that crackly effect to the left and above the main lettering. Just on the one side. Zoom in, it isn’t noticeable on the layout or bench. Any ideas?
View attachment 155931View attachment 155932View attachment 155933View attachment 155934View attachment 155935
I need to cut that tree down and fix the trunk bark color.

I need to go back inside the gondola and add a more consistent rust effect on the side walls. Better blend the outside side walls.

Even though this car will stay on the layout, this is why I take lots of pictures. Suggestions if you have any. I am going to shoot both sides with another spray of clear coat. The ends have not yet been touched.

This car would never be sent to a client. The outside feels sloppy looking
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You could possibly overlay grime and rust on those affected panels, I think you'd have to try it on the worst affected panel first, see if it takes, or paint them a different colour, like primer, make them replaced/damaged panels perhaps, but that is quite a few panels to have like that on one car, but add lots of rust, replaced panels in primer, not been painted in RR colours perhaps, other than that I've nothing, sorry. :(
 
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Smudge617 said:
You could possibly overlay grime and rust on those affected panels, I think you'd have to try it on the worst affected panel first, see if it takes, or paint them a different colour, like primer, make them replaced/damaged panels perhaps, but that is quite a few panels to have like that on one car, but add lots of rust, replaced panels in primer, not been painted in RR colours perhaps, other than that I've nothing, sorry. :(
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Don’t be sorry. I took a angled stiff brush and brushed hard. If this doesn’t work I will move the PSI on the compressor to 70-80, load the airbrush with 99% Isopropy Alcohol and pressure was the one side of the car
 
TLOC said:
Don’t be sorry. I took a angled stiff brush and brushed hard. If this doesn’t work I will move the PSI on the compressor to 70-80, load the airbrush with 99% Isopropy Alcohol and pressure was the one side of the car
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Hope the stiff brush works then, you saw what happened on my gondola's decals, and that was using a paint brush and a cotton swab. 99% IPA at +70 wont be much left I would think
 


One of my FB friends I sent the pictures to said another spray of clear mat will get rid of the crack effect. I think it’s gone from the brushing but he says no. I have to clear coat anyway before I add the tags shown on the prototype.

Go ahead and suggest solutions please. It will stay this way overnight
 
CambriaArea51 said:
Tom-Ever try dull coat to fade, or acrylic white or lite gray wash to fade. Dan does an interesting fade on this boxcar. I've used a lite gray wash on this Conrail hopper to dull and fade.View attachment 155954
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Thanks Tom for the video. I am one of Dan’s many subscribers, he is very good but can he talk or what?

Yes, I have used Testors Dull Cote to fade on cars other then black and it worked fine. I had to start looking for another clear as even with the paint booth blower running I could not longer tolerate the smell. Plus, the spray can was hard to find at reasonable pricing. I now use the VMS Matt clear varnish and have used it also to fade on cars that are not black. I still prefer the brush on Tamiya X-21 for fading other then black.

This black gondola from Exactrail has got me bambozzled and I don‘t understand the cracking effect on one side of the gondola but not the other. I believe I have played with it enough and it looks better for now.

Thankfully it is not a car from a client but if it was, it would have been pressure washed already and the process started over.

You know, this is frustrating but at the same time I am enjoying the process. Now to understand the cracking. One of the MMR modelers I know, mentioned it’s possible it’s the color in the car body.

I put this gondola aside this afternoon and finished up a few other projects and worked on the paper mill.

thank you
 
ctclibby said:
Can't really see the hoppers as I wasn't thinking about weathering when I took these. Everything is pretty much white with off yellow.

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And where they 'served'.....
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Later
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Todd, most of my personal pictures at one time were of locomotives. That’s why Guy in the diner to me posts such awesome pictures.

Do you remember the location of this plant?

thanks for checking in, appreciate it
 
This picture was taken for a friend, but these are the cars I worked on today. I have the SKNX covered hopper already listed on FB. When it sells I will list the WC hopper and then the BCIT Centerbeam. If it doesn’t sell I will remove the listing .
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ctclibby said:
Ya, I40 x329 in TN. West of Knoxville. Have mo pix if you are interested.
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Thank you. I am looking for structures for the new part of the layout hopefully to start in 2023. The framework has been up for almost a year. I can grab pictures off of Google Earth but I might ask for your pictures later. I appreciate the help

Edit.
Now I know why the name was familiar from the locomotive picture. That’s the place where part of the mine collapsed a few years ago. Crab Orchard Mine in 2021
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