Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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Static grass comes in many Forms, mixing and matching adds extra textures and colours and overlays
 

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The garden is a great source of plant life that works at h0 and 00 scale

a dying tree provided a home to this small lichen
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I dried it, I did not even bother dipping in in glycerin as is often advised,and it is going strong

pampas grass I took the seed heads and broke them down making my own grasses
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straw colour is default but you can dye them brown green whatever

moss dries green or browned both work
being a real plant the structure perfectly imitates larger plants
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birch tree seeds which can be soaked and died work excellently they look like little leaves or large leaves just depends on your scales, and you can collect free this time of year
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small branches are similar to the large trees they derive from
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Branches, painted
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and many of us use them as tree trunks on our wagon loads


you can even weather your trees.
paint the inners black for shadows, then add wood chip painted turf for a nice finish on cheap bought trees, I find cheap hairspray is fine

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I like interior of wagons too, you can plastic coal, often a bit shiny, needs dulling, but you can use real coal, smack it and makes it small enough to use, and even weather with
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black paint can weather but so can coal and water
exteriors interiors
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Imo nothing beats real coal, a bbq briquette might be an alternative
s little varnish and you have the impression it’s a tad wet
 
Wagon, I used a pink mixed with black to dirty the wagon, then the black and black powder to weather it down further
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the company paints the moving parts white that control the wagon
dumping a train in front helps :D
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terrible connectors but easily hidden
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Upgrading a cheap class 08
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As bought
thinned transparent brown, red buffer ends
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roughly painted by hand yellow strip at the top
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plastic start building the glass in the windows, dulled the bogie
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layer by layer filling the window, makes that round bubble

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black the grill, dirtied near the chimney, rough and ready
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Now close up it’s a tad rough and ready
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Photography at enough of a difference, the buffers are there
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but they are no screaming model
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but better if not too obvioud
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The plastic windows are not great but still an improvement imo
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better when not 2 to compare and the buffer better hidden
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the better the other details the more convincing it gets
 


One of my FB friends I sent the pictures to said another spray of clear mat will get rid of the crack effect. I think it’s gone from the brushing but he says no. I have to clear coat anyway before I add the tags shown on the prototype.

Go ahead and suggest solutions please. It will stay this way overnight
Instead of the Tamiya Flat Base, I would start the black weathering process with Tamiya TS-80 Clear Flat Spray Can…and go from there… it’s a lighter coat that gets the weathering ball rolling

I have seen a lot of Tamiya Flat Base weathering results and they look pretty good but perhaps in this case the underlying paint reacted with the application

I would airbrush some FUTURE over the TTX crackle and reweather it…should be recoverable…failing that mix some faded yellow and pinpoint airbrush the offending spots

I had some lettering crack on one car with a Rustoleum Clear Flat application…another application and weathering minimized the issue

I saw this blog using TS-80 as the starting point for a black tank car:

 
CSX 65’Mill gondola that per the markings is in Pipe service!
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Photo credits on the picture from RailcarPhotos.com

The real car and same numbering series of the build in 8/1969 with the above picture taken on 4/18/2015.

Sprayed to fade with 20% white to 80% Isopropyl Alcohol with 2 drops of x-21 Tamiya base. Dried 2 hours in the dehydrator. No picture, duh!
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Let out to dry as the dehydrator has passed on to the great electronics dumping grounds. Smoke from the fan/motor and a rubber smell just before it hissed at me to say goodbye. 3 years at least in service to me and maybe 10 before that drying herbs for Terry. It’s service has been appreciated in the past and will be truly missed over the next few days. The replacement for Terry has been ordered and her current unit will be joining my painting apparatus after it gets here. Her’s currently is employed drying some herb I was told but don’t remember the name of.

I am going to do that white patching job and I think with a brush. The prototype is sloppy enough I should have little issue with that. I had to clean off the recently ( this morning) applied safety stripes. Also the prototype pictures shows relatively clean car numbers. The tide marks will disappear as the next clear coat of Matt varnish will be applied. I will switch to a more detailed airbrush as I add a black gray mix to break up the rust. While I am not trying to exactly copy the original car, being close would be nice.

The pipe loads for this car are here somewhere and I will show them if found
 
Now close up it’s a tad rough and ready
View attachment 156088Photography at enough of a difference, the buffers are there
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but they are no screaming model
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but better if not too obvioud
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The plastic windows are not great but still an improvement imo
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better when not 2 to compare and the buffer better hidden
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the better the other details the more convincing it gets
Jaz, next time you do some weathering could you take some step by step photo's as Tom does, it's great to see the finished scene, and the inspiration for it, but no way of knowing how you got there, just for us morons (namely me) who don't have your or Tom's talent.
 
Instead of the Tamiya Flat Base, I would start the black weathering process with Tamiya TS-80 Clear Flat Spray Can…and go from there… it’s a lighter coat that gets the weathering ball rolling

I have seen a lot of Tamiya Flat Base weathering results and they look pretty good but perhaps in this case the underlying paint reacted with the application

I would airbrush some FUTURE over the TTX crackle and reweather it…should be recoverable…failing that mix some faded yellow and pinpoint airbrush the offending spots

I had some lettering crack on one car with a Rustoleum Clear Flat application…another application and weathering minimized the issue

I saw this blog using TS-80 as the starting point for a black tank car:

Airbrush#5 is there a smell to TS80?

excellent. Thank you. I have had a few tell me to use TS80 instead of x-21 base. This however is the 1st examples of someone using it. As I wait for drying the LHS is 4 miles north away and the gaming shop is 4 miles east of the house. Both I am thinking of an in-person trip…

The current CSX car I am working on is black. I did a mix of white 20% with 80% Isopropyl Alcohol with 2 drops of the X-21 base which the military modelers I have read say is the way it should be used. IMO it faded nicely. Much different then yesterday’s learning experience.

thanks again
 
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