Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


Status
Not open for further replies.
Snowman said:
The varnish hardened into a...well...a hard layer. Or something else?

Whatever it was, I would bet it was caused by something you added...or something that was already a part of both paints. It can't be just a coincidence that both failed at the same time.

I know there is a cure for this problem too. Acetone? Paint thinner? Turpentine? Alcohol? Ammonia?............Dish Soap? It's going to one of those, or another one I can't think of at the moment.

I think you will have to take the brush apart, and soak the parts to prep them for a good cleaning.

At which point I could stand on my soap box and say "let this be a lesson to you." Except that I'm a), not entitled to and; b) don't have any more a clue as to which of these...glues...actually effed up your airbrush. If YOU do, then more power to you.
Click to expand...
Snowman, soap boxes are acceptable here, no problem. I agree it’s to big a coincidence to not be related to using the matte varnish in the airbrushes. But why did it take so long and at the start of a project to rear up?

I thoroughly cleaned both brushes, I just cannot get the trigger assembly correct at this time. I will look at additional You Tube videos to figure it out. If the worst occurs Badger has lifetime service on the brushes and I can return it for a decent fee and they will fix it. I have the one brush and that really is my number one. I also have a couple other brand new in the drawer. Badger before Covid had owner sales for when his birthday popped up you would pay for certain brushes his age. The Renagade Chrome cost low 50’s.
 
troyphoto said:
I've been debating on picking up an ultrasonic cleaning bath for when I get more serious about airbrushing. I spend a chunk of change on a Grex system. Love it, but I know there will come a time when I have to go deeper than just pulling the needle and the front assembly to clean it.
Click to expand...
Until yesterday I have had not issues with my airbrushes. I was running 70% Isopropyl Alcohol as the thinning mix for maybe 10 years until last Fall when I found Boomer Diorama. He uses the 99% IPA, so I switched over.

I have heard pros and cons on the UltraSonic cleaner being used on the airbrush. If you are a heavy airbrush user, I’d go for it.

Back in the 1970’s I shared a UltraSonic cleaner, it was owned by the LHS and he loaned it out, no charge. We all were painting brass steam engines back then.
 
CambriaArea51 said:
Weathered the BNSF 5831 today with before and after pics. I'm going to have to figure out this new phone. It's weathered a bit darker than it shows.View attachment 153897View attachment 153898View attachment 153899
Click to expand...
I am not a photographer and even the day after I sleep at the Holiday Inn Express it doesn’t improve my skills. I have now a IPhone 11 something and just point and shoot. I do not use photo shop and the only editing I do is fix occasionally the orientation of the photo. From me you get what I shoot.
 


Client loved the pictures of the wheel sets and trucks. Then decided and IMO rightly so since these are not rustbuckets the trucks needed less rust.

So went from
52A8B4FC-8296-421B-AE1F-097CFB2CDCEF.jpeg

to these
A142EF82-13AE-4146-BB1E-1BA256CD06FD.jpeg
96841322-564E-459B-BC44-ADE3E8ED9CED.jpeg
ED3E3F7A-2736-48CE-B7DD-1DEEC1F9BF84.jpeg
B3DEE15B-8DFC-40F1-9746-A7EC7E9C986F.jpeg

I did clean up the threads but no pictures
 
TLOC said:
Very nice Tom. No clear coat between the spray paint and weathering powders? What type of powders? Very happy to see your process.
Click to expand...
Thanks, no clear coat, the surface is rough enough with the wash and airbrush for the powders to stick and blend. Dull coat will be done on the whole car when finished to seal.
Monroe (Aim) powers. Delta dirt, Medium Earth, and Ash Gray to blend. This gives the progression from a dirty gray to a dark dirt/rust look.
 


Ok, the 70% to 99% IPA line just triggered a new thought: One goal among the 3D resin printing crowd is to save money when possible (duh), and one of the ways that can be done is to reuse/recycle IPA, which is used as a dip to remove uncured resin from the printed parts. I have the idea IPA is the most widely used rinse among the resin printing crowd, but at least one guy (and now a few more), have experimented with alternatives.

It's been a year or more, and I'm not sure where or who authored the video where I first saw it, but it could be this one:

Jessy thinks pretty well of "MeanGreen." It's available at Lowes here in the US.


Might or might be good for cleaning airbrushes. If you try it, let us know.

FWIW, I think the "orange-or-other-citric-acid" stuff is not dissimilar to products sold for other purposes. Some are sold as "goo" label stickum removers--GOO GONE is one:

Duck brand Adhesive remover is another:

or as gripping activator solution, which is applied to the double-stick tape over which club grips are then slid into position:
www.golfworks.com

The Golfworks Grip Solvent

This economical solvent activates all solvent-activated tapes.
www.golfworks.com www.golfworks.com

There are other solutions which might work too, and Golfworks also sells one of those (Naptha, rather than citrus based):

The GolfWorks Pro-Blend Grip Solvents | The GolfWorks

The GolfWorks Pro-Blend Grip Solvents
www.golfworks.com www.golfworks.com

-----

The triggered thought has now run it's course, and so "we return control of your television set (or computer) to you. Until the next time we take you to...

...The...Outer...Limits...".
 
Yeah... IPA was in short supply, as was Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA's big brother) during the pandemic's early days. So, 3D Resin Printing was scrambling for a subsitute.

I decided against the sonic cleaner. A simple wash station (vat with cleaner - I use 91% IPA) with a mixing motor in the bottom and a "french fry basket" are good enough for cleaning prints. BUT, I do a two stage. First stage is a dip in IPA via a pickle jug... basically a basket in a tupperwear style quart jug. Get the worst of the ipa off. Then into the 2nd bath with the spinning fan in the bottom.
 
Snowman said:
Ok, the 70% to 99% IPA line just triggered a new thought: One goal among the 3D resin printing crowd is to save money when possible (duh), and one of the ways that can be done is to reuse/recycle IPA, which is used as a dip to remove uncured resin from the printed parts. I have the idea IPA is the most widely used rinse among the resin printing crowd, but at least one guy (and now a few more), have experimented with alternatives.

It's been a year or more, and I'm not sure where or who authored the video where I first saw it, but it could be this one:

Jessy thinks pretty well of "MeanGreen." It's available at Lowes here in the US.


Might or might be good for cleaning airbrushes. If you try it, let us know.

FWIW, I think the "orange-or-other-citric-acid" stuff is not dissimilar to products sold for other purposes. Some are sold as "goo" label stickum removers--GOO GONE is one:

Duck brand Adhesive remover is another:

or as gripping activator solution, which is applied to the double-stick tape over which club grips are then slid into position:
www.golfworks.com

The Golfworks Grip Solvent

This economical solvent activates all solvent-activated tapes.
www.golfworks.com www.golfworks.com

There are other solutions which might work too, and Golfworks also sells one of those (Naptha, rather than citrus based):

The GolfWorks Pro-Blend Grip Solvents | The GolfWorks

The GolfWorks Pro-Blend Grip Solvents
www.golfworks.com www.golfworks.com

-----

The triggered thought has now run it's course, and so "we return control of your television set (or computer) to you. Until the next time we take you to...

...The...Outer...Limits...".
Click to expand...
I use the Isopropyl Alcohol for thinning the Tamia Arcylic paints I use besides cleaning the airbrush. I have read about the MeanGreen. Not ready to start experimenting again. To me the IPS was a great solution to having too much stuff around for painting.

Re-gripping golf clubs. One of my duties as the Bag Room guy at the Country Club I worked through high school and college was re-gripping clubs. Double stick tape wrapped to the specs from the Golf Pros, put a tee in the hole in the grip, add some gasoline, swish it around and push the grip over the grip. Pull the tee out and avoiding being in the way of the spray.

TomO
 
troyphoto said:
Yeah... IPA was in short supply, as was Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA's big brother) during the pandemic's early days. So, 3D Resin Printing was scrambling for a subsitute.

I decided against the sonic cleaner. A simple wash station (vat with cleaner - I use 91% IPA) with a mixing motor in the bottom and a "french fry basket" are good enough for cleaning prints. BUT, I do a two stage. First stage is a dip in IPA via a pickle jug... basically a basket in a tupperwear style quart jug. Get the worst of the ipa off. Then into the 2nd bath with the spinning fan in the bottom.
Click to expand...
I have a buddy who owns a decal company but also does 3D printing. I remember a couple months into the pandemic he was asking for Isopropyl Alcohol either 91 or 99%. Seems folks were making it into hand sanitizer. He came and got 6 bottles of 91% from me, he didn’t want the 70%. That is when I moved to using 99% when I could get it. I was using the 91% for stripping paint or removing decals. The 99% works better and quicker but I have to use more care for those reasons.
 


The sides were dusted with medium earth (closest to surface rust I can duplicate) The oils were not quite dry and this happen before, but gives a nice effect with the wide soft brush I use to blend the powders. The rust spot is done with raw umber for the dark look and the raw sienna for the lighter rust outside the spot.
IMG_5623.jpg
IMG_5622.jpg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top