TLOC
Well-Known Member
Do you apply the dark umber 1st for the rust spot or the raw sienna first?
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
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In practicing with the oils I am finding the streak effects are easier then with Arcyli paints.
The car looks great
As for the streaking effects I use powders.
For your bare metal effect use like a gray or flat aluminum. They will dull when you weather and dull coat.
The only issue I might have based on the method you used building your cables is the hooks, how to I make a hook and a ratchet?
For my Centerbeams, I used Tamiya Arcylic paints. Hull red 7 drops and 3 drops basic black and mixed. Then I added 40 drops (give or take a few) and mixed. I sprayed with an airbrush from about 12” away at 35psi as I wanted a light covering.
I would think a mix of any deep red color (not bright) and black mixed with your thinner of choice would come up the same or close. TomO
CambriaArea51 Tom, I am sure will chime in with his formula.
GUYS, if you have a video you think will help us in our weathering endeavors for rolling stock, (not locomotives) go ahead and post them.
Here are some great options. I have Alkem chains. They need to be painted though.
alkemscalemodels.biz
More food for thought
I was unaware of SpringMillsdepot even though I have looked at the website.
Bernie at Alkem‘s hooks and turn buckles with Ken’s (d&j railroad) method of the wire for cabling should work.
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CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Dark umber first.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I have tried it both ways with the Arcylics and not real happy with either method. I am closer to breaking out the oils for real not the practicing I have been doing with the oils so far.
In practicing with the oils I am finding the streak effects are easier then with Arcyli paints.
The car looks great
TLOC
Well-Known Member
To my weathering bench!
I tried using a leaded pencil on 4 ribs on the CB floor to simulate bare metal. Looked good IMO.
then using the clear Krylon last night washed them away. I am experimenting right now on a practice car if the VMS matte clear washes them away. If not since the client liked the picture before I coated it I may need an alternative
streaking next
I tried using a leaded pencil on 4 ribs on the CB floor to simulate bare metal. Looked good IMO.
then using the clear Krylon last night washed them away. I am experimenting right now on a practice car if the VMS matte clear washes them away. If not since the client liked the picture before I coated it I may need an alternative
streaking next
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Are you using water mixable oils like I posted above. It's much thicker than acrylics.
As for the streaking effects I use powders.
For your bare metal effect use like a gray or flat aluminum. They will dull when you weather and dull coat.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Tom
I have been practicing with Abeitlung 502 Oils. I have been practicing the dot rusting effect. I have gotten some great practice results creating oil washes. I will after these 5 cars do a couple reefers with the oils.
I will try the gray for the bare metal as I do not have a flat aluminum. I have an aluminum from Model Master I will check that out. I use it for machinery cylinder arms as it’s very shiny
This customer does not want powders or in my case Pan Pastels.
Thank you
I have been practicing with Abeitlung 502 Oils. I have been practicing the dot rusting effect. I have gotten some great practice results creating oil washes. I will after these 5 cars do a couple reefers with the oils.
I will try the gray for the bare metal as I do not have a flat aluminum. I have an aluminum from Model Master I will check that out. I use it for machinery cylinder arms as it’s very shiny
This customer does not want powders or in my case Pan Pastels.
Thank you
PRR Modeler
Well-Known Member
Beautiful job on the griminess.
D&J RailRoad
Professor of HO
Where are the tie down cables TomO?
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thank you Curt
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
Ken, I have been thinking about the cables for ME! Not enough money for me to makeup the cables for this client.
The only issue I might have based on the method you used building your cables is the hooks, how to I make a hook and a ratchet?
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BigGRacing
Aka. Gary Russell
Both car jobs look awesome, any tips on doing the patina roof in my thread using basic paints ?
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Tom those lumber cars came out nice.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Gary,
For my Centerbeams, I used Tamiya Arcylic paints. Hull red 7 drops and 3 drops basic black and mixed. Then I added 40 drops (give or take a few) and mixed. I sprayed with an airbrush from about 12” away at 35psi as I wanted a light covering.
I would think a mix of any deep red color (not bright) and black mixed with your thinner of choice would come up the same or close. TomO
CambriaArea51 Tom, I am sure will chime in with his formula.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thank you, the client though wants a bit less grime on the Centerbeam blue walls for this car. So this morning is clean it up with odorless thinner time. Easy if I can keep the brush strokes steady and straight. Wants more dirt on the underside.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
While I watched this yesterday, this morning I watched it again but with intent. Tom thanks for sharing. I am in a no man’s land for So. Central Wisconsin has few trains and fewer spots you can see the tops of the cars. I moved this video into my saved folder. What really got me though is the chute weathering on these cars. They are all over the map. I have around 12 of my own grain cars and 12 phosphate cars to do eventually and while the top views are extremely helpful the chutes have changed my thinking. Both regarding how much weathering and the coloring.
GUYS, if you have a video you think will help us in our weathering endeavors for rolling stock, (not locomotives) go ahead and post them.
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
Nothing done after my shut it down posting yesterday afternoon. Had a dinner date and a musical to attend last night.
Based on the feed back from the client overnight, today I will clean up the blue car. He thought the grime on the blue center beam partition was too much and not streaky enough. I will take a flat brush loaded with orderless spirits and brush it on. I will let it sit 20 seconds or so and with another flat brush and slightly damp I will pull the grime color down to the floor.
The 2 TTZX yellow cars shown only in 1 picture, ( I added it again here) he doesn’t feel there is enough grime on either underside frame.
What I will do here is on each rib where the yellow shows on the floor I will overcoat with a blacker mix of my hull red/black that I used. On previous cars I have done for him he loved the effect above but that’s why I send the clients pictures.
Hopefully by lunch today these corrections will be done and posted to the client.
See the tree just to the right of the picture? I couldn’t help myself while things were drying yesterday!
Based on the feed back from the client overnight, today I will clean up the blue car. He thought the grime on the blue center beam partition was too much and not streaky enough. I will take a flat brush loaded with orderless spirits and brush it on. I will let it sit 20 seconds or so and with another flat brush and slightly damp I will pull the grime color down to the floor.
The 2 TTZX yellow cars shown only in 1 picture, ( I added it again here) he doesn’t feel there is enough grime on either underside frame.
What I will do here is on each rib where the yellow shows on the floor I will overcoat with a blacker mix of my hull red/black that I used. On previous cars I have done for him he loved the effect above but that’s why I send the clients pictures.
Hopefully by lunch today these corrections will be done and posted to the client.
See the tree just to the right of the picture? I couldn’t help myself while things were drying yesterday!
Alcomotive
Grandson of an ALCO Builder
Here are some great options. I have Alkem chains. They need to be painted though.
Heavy Duty Chain Tie Downs — Alkem Scale Models
HO scale detail part for heavy duty ratchet style chain tie-downs with compression units used on military and heavy-duty civilian loads.
alkemscalemodels.biz
SPRING MILLS DEPOT - DODX Heavy Duty Flat Car - Tie Down Chains
Model Train Storage Boxes. Custom Cars.
www.springmillsdepot.com
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TLOC
Well-Known Member
James thanks. I have briefly thought of using Alkem’s chains. I figure if his chain link fence is as great as it is I should try the chains. Thing is I don’t need the chain just the hooks and turnbuckles that I see look like separate pieces.Here are some great options. I have Alkem chains. They need to be painted though.
Heavy Duty Chain Tie Downs — Alkem Scale Models
HO scale detail part for heavy duty ratchet style chain tie-downs with compression units used on military and heavy-duty civilian loads.
SPRING MILLS DEPOT - DODX Heavy Duty Flat Car - Tie Down Chains
Model Train Storage Boxes. Custom Cars.www.springmillsdepot.com
More food for thought
I was unaware of SpringMillsdepot even though I have looked at the website.
Bernie at Alkem‘s hooks and turn buckles with Ken’s (d&j railroad) method of the wire for cabling should work.
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