Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

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Why yes, thanks for asking. I do have the next cars and a picture
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the white stuff is the Tamiya x-21 base that I use for fading cars.

Once dried it forms a chalk and needs to be brushed off. All 4 remaining cars are in this process. This afternoon I will just brush them off and picjk the next one
 
What really got me though is the chute weathering on these cars. They are all over the map. I have around 12 of my own grain cars and 12 phosphate cars to do eventually and while the top views are extremely helpful the chutes have changed my thinking. Both regarding how much weathering and the coloring.
Ask and you'll receive. This video is a good look at the underside.
 
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Ask and you'll receive. This video is a good look at the underside.
Ask and you'll receive. This video is a good look at the underside.
Tom

The first video would have been perfect for the undersides in better light but still it will be very helpful. Lots of graffiti on that train.

The second video is definitely helpful especially when I can slow it down.

Thanks for sharing those

if I can get into the train room today it will be much later
 


Good evening. SMUDGE617 started a thread about cleaning airbrushes, check it out and contribute if possible. Lots of different ways to clean an AirBrush

airbrush warning, I do use the airbrush when I weather. I use it mainly to give a base coat of grime to the underside of the car. For coloring, that’s it, just the underside. I also use the airbrush for applying either matte clear or for gloss clear coatings. That happens often during the process when there is a color change

Meanwhile back at the bench! The 4 remaining Centerbeams are heavily faded (Tamiya x-21 base) When I hit the bench this morning it was to plot out the weathering for one of the yellow TTZX and the BCIT green cars. The other 2 cars I already had a good idea and have the sample pictures to go off of.

So I sent a bunch of pictures of medium type weathered cars off the Railcarphotos.com website to the client. He replied let’s do this yellow car similar to the blue one he approved Friday. Medium it will be. Ok!

Then on the green BCIT car he now wants it destroyed enough that it needs to go to the shop for a rebuild and new paint. I was not expecting that and Centerbeams generally don’t get that bad and still be used. Basically, he wants a car similar to some Pulp cars I have done for him. Pulp cars get really banged up and still are used. So…

Next
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the car on the holder is a yellow TTZX that will be medium weathered but with rust starting.

The color is Panzer Aces #301 by Vallejo Light Rust. By first brushing on with lots of clear water and then dabbing on a wash of the 301 thinned again with water it will flow to the edges of just about everything. I will do this a few times, let dry and apply more until I feel good about it.

The bottom car below the holder is the green BCIT car. Using the same #301 light rust wash as above. I dabbed the wash on, then dipped the damp brush into a pot of light rust pigments by AV but there is no label to give a number or the actual name. When dried there will be adhered thin layer of rust.

Both cars are in the dehydrator for the night.

Next up for both cars will be using Vallejo Air burnt umber as the heavy rust spot coloring

enjoy the night
 
James thanks. I have briefly thought of using Alkem’s chains. I figure if his chain link fence is as great as it is I should try the chains. Thing is I don’t need the chain just the hooks and turnbuckles that I see look like separate pieces.

More food for thought

I was unaware of SpringMillsdepot even though I have looked at the website.

Bernie at Alkem‘s hooks and turn buckles with Ken’s (d&j railroad) method of the wire for cabling should work.
I found these some time ago when someone else (I forget who, maybe D&J? ) wanted to make a flat load using a loco.

 
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I use the Isopropyl Alcohol for thinning the Tamia Arcylic paints I use besides cleaning the airbrush. I have read about the MeanGreen. Not ready to start experimenting again. To me the IPS was a great solution to having too much stuff around for painting.

Re-gripping golf clubs. One of my duties as the Bag Room guy at the Country Club I worked through high school and college was re-gripping clubs. Double stick tape wrapped to the specs from the Golf Pros, put a tee in the hole in the grip, add some gasoline, swish it around and push the grip over the grip. Pull the tee out and avoiding being in the way of the spray.

TomO
That's exactly the way I gripped clubs too for more than thirty years. Gasoline, golf tee in the grip hole.... It's been only in the last two years that I've even tried actual "gripping solution," and they DO have the advantage of not being (so) flammable. Or smelly. Or oily.

Disadvantage to using the actual approved solution, which I only just discovered the hard way, is that the working time with gasoline is a LOT longer. For someone like me who tweaks alignments looking down the shaft to the head, back up to the grip, over and over again....the longer working time gasoline offers is a definite plus.

On the other hand, gasoline as a grip tape glue solvent DOES leave the smell, and even a week later, it can still be annoying. Even a month later.
Heck...I can smell it on some grips a full year later. To avoid or reduce that, I washed the grips thoroughly using a heavy application of Dawn dishsoap, after a full day first of letting them sit in the sun, so that I wouldn't twist or ruin the alignment simply by cleaning them of the gasoline.
It's also true that...wait for it...wait......wait....

..............even in THIS economy, the "gasoline gripping solution" is still a lot cheaper. Probably cheaper even if you grip your clubs with 100LL (aka AVGAS).

----------------

None of which really pertains to cleaning airbrushes...(oh Flo....more...decaf...please). But at the same time, gasoline to clean airbrushes is a solvent I hadn't considered at all.

And, all that said, if there is a cleanout problem which can (seemingly) be narrowed down to the needle area, it's also possible there is a mechanical problem which appears to be a cleanout problem, but isn't. Something might be bent, and might be snagging or rubbing on a nearby part. It might break loose, but then snag up again...which can mimic a paint/varnish buildup, but which actually isn't.

A magnifying glass might be a big help there.

Just a thought.
 
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I follow this guy's YouTube videos and he does impressive and meticulous work. He is a private airline pilot by trade. He doesn't post often but when he does it's awesome.

:D When you said he's an airline pilot, I automatically assumed you were referring to Luke Towan.*

[*YouTube, if you--or anyone else--haven't seen his work]
 
I follow this guy's YouTube videos and he does impressive and meticulous work. He is a private airline pilot by trade. He doesn't post often but when he does it's awesome.

Thanks for sharing. I agree very nice work. I have a few of the same cars he is weathering in the video from BLMA. They are extremely fragile.

He is excellent with the decals. I have been playing around with decals of graffiti from circuscitydecal.com and they are very nice and easy to work with.
 


Thanks for sharing. I agree very nice work. I have a few of the same cars he is weathering in the video from BLMA. They are extremely fragile.

He is excellent with the decals. I have been playing around with decals of graffiti from circuscitydecal.com and they are very nice and easy to work with.


He really has a lot of talent. Watching all of his videos is worth the time. Very humble and modest. Good guy.
 
That's exactly the way I gripped clubs too for more than thirty years. Gasoline, golf tee in the grip hole.... It's been only in the last two years that I've even tried actual "gripping solution," and they DO have the advantage of not being (so) flammable. Or smelly. Or oily.

Disadvantage to using the actual approved solution, which I only just discovered the hard way, is that the working time with gasoline is a LOT longer. For someone like me who tweaks alignments looking down the shaft to the head, back up to the grip, over and over again....the longer working time gasoline offers is a definite plus.

On the other hand, gasoline as a grip tape glue solvent DOES leave the smell, and even a week later, it can still be annoying. Even a month later.
Heck...I can smell it on some grips a full year later. To avoid or reduce that, I washed the grips thoroughly using a heavy application of Dawn dishsoap, after a full day first of letting them sit in the sun, so that I wouldn't twist or ruin the alignment simply by cleaning them of the gasoline.
It's also true that...wait for it...wait......wait....

..............even in THIS economy, the "gasoline gripping solution" is still a lot cheaper. Probably cheaper even if you grip your clubs with 100LL (aka AVGAS).

----------------

None of which really pertains to cleaning airbrushes...(oh Flo....more...decaf...please). But at the same time, gasoline to clean airbrushes is a solvent I hadn't considered at all.

And, all that said, if there is a cleanout problem which can (seemingly) be narrowed down to the needle area, it's also possible there is a mechanical problem which appears to be a cleanout problem, but isn't. Something might be bent, and might be snagging or rubbing on a nearby part. It might break loose, but then snag up again...which can mimic a paint/varnish buildup, but which actually isn't.

A magnifying glass might be a big help there.

Just a thought.

Snowman, my boss always said to let the grips dry 24 hours and then soak in dish soap. Too long ago and I don’t remember the name.

I have been airbrushing since the mid 70’s. Personally I have never had a bent needle. I have seen them at the LHS when someone brings one in but that’s it.
 
Well accidents happen.

This car body was done minus trucks and couplers. Client loved it. I was wrapping it on the bench to mail it out and see the spot? It doesn’t buff out so …
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There’s the spot. He does not want a patch so I will strip this side and start over
 
One of two Grain express car I started yesterday. The seams in the car body catch dirt as they run down the track. To do this I take a micro brush ultra fine and use Delta dirt powder and go down the seem. Then with a soft brush I go top to bottom a couple of times, then the length of the car with a little pressure. This also dulls the car down.
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One of two Grain express car I started yesterday. The seams in the car body catch dirt as they run down the track. To do this I take a micro brush ultra fine and use Delta dirt powder and go down the seem. Then with a soft brush I go top to bottom a couple of times, then the length of the car with a little pressure. This also dulls the car down.View attachment 154384View attachment 154385View attachment 154386
Looks great. Nicely done and thanks for telling us how you accomplished it
 


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