TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thanks Tony, good advice and I agree about gravity fed. Here is the Iwata page along with a good quiz
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
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www.midwestairbrush.com
I have 7 but use only 3. The other 4 were gifts and never have been hooked up to an air hose.
A single action brush that I only use for spraying the clear finishes. This brush along with the VMC clear varnishes I use works best at 35 PSI for me. Your environmental conditions might be different. The manufacturer says 30PSI is best for these clear varnishes.
The Patriot Extreme 105 is my go to air brush. It feels the most comfortable in my hand and it is very easy to clean. It disassembles and goes back together seamlessly. This I use for general spraying both painting and weathering. For structures and cars.
My Renagade Krome I would guess I use 30% or less of the time. FOR ME, this is the brush I use for more detail spraying. Cleans up easily but is a real PITA to reassemble.
I used to use a 3 way manifold but decided switching the hose between the brushes is no big deal.
These are what I use. CambriaArea51, Smudge617, wombat457 and EspeeFan have talked about theirs. It’s what you are comfortable with that matters. Like Alan (espeeFan) wrote, try to handle one before buying. While not possible online, as you get more familar you will get more comfy with whatever you buy. But make an effort to handle one.
Have fun
enjoy
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wombat457
I'm the one
@TLOC
Tom, you beat me to it - I was about to put up the Iwata website
This is the Airbrush I have:
www.iwata-airbrush.com
It is probably too good for my abilities but is brilliant for painting rolling stock etc.
Tom, you beat me to it - I was about to put up the Iwata website
This is the Airbrush I have:
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS Gravity Feed Dual Action Airbrush
Check out the deal on Iwata Eclipse HP-CS Gravity Feed Dual Action Airbrush at Iwata-Medea
It is probably too good for my abilities but is brilliant for painting rolling stock etc.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
As TomO suggested, I've recently went through the whole saga of getting a new airbrush and compressor after the cheap one I had ($35 all in one airbrush and compressor deal from fleBay) packed in after about 15hrs of use. I'd always had trouble with the airbrush with clogging, splattering and often not spraying at all.
I asked on the forum about getting a new compressor and airbrush and had lot's of very helpful and useful advice from our weathering Guru's here regarding both items.
Following their advice I bought a Royal Max TC compressor with a 3ltr tank, as I needed a small compressor, and a Harder&Steenbeck Ultra 2 in 1 airbrush. I know I've a good qualty airbrush as Harder & Steenbeck are owned by Iwata, but at half the price.
I'm still using the cheap airbrush although it doesn't have the control for fine weathering, but mainly to practice with, I've found that now I have a proper compressor it works quite well, assuming I intend to paint a barn door that is.
I asked on the forum about getting a new compressor and airbrush and had lot's of very helpful and useful advice from our weathering Guru's here regarding both items.
Following their advice I bought a Royal Max TC compressor with a 3ltr tank, as I needed a small compressor, and a Harder&Steenbeck Ultra 2 in 1 airbrush. I know I've a good qualty airbrush as Harder & Steenbeck are owned by Iwata, but at half the price.
I'm still using the cheap airbrush although it doesn't have the control for fine weathering, but mainly to practice with, I've found that now I have a proper compressor it works quite well, assuming I intend to paint a barn door that is.
On airbrush selection, I agree with Tom. Buy a good one. Just like any tool. Buy a good one once or a cheapie 5 times. Same dollars! I've used Badger. I learned on a single action 200, went to the 150, and have a Patriot. Used Paasche. I have an old H but I use that mostly for instruction. My go-to Paasche was the Millenium. Thayer Chandler (since absorbed by Badger) I was introduced to Iwatas over a decade ago and stuck with them. Their machining is far superior to either Badger or Paasche, and their actions are smoother. Their materials for needles and nozzles are surgical stainless steel as opposed to brass in the Badger and Paasche, so I don't go through parts like I did when I was using Badger exclusively. Unfortunately, all of this shows up in their price! 
You get what you pay for, as with anything. You can get an Iwata Revolution for around $100.00, which is a good price range for a dependable airbrush. I have one in my stable and it's a good airbrush! There's also Grex, which is a good brand, and comparably priced. If you can, go to a store, one where you can pick them up and hold them. Regardless of brand, the airbrush should feel good in your hand, and be well balanced.
Tony chose well. The Iwata HP-CS was my number one seller when I was doing an Iwata booth at train shows. It's very versatile. I have many airbrushes but 9 out of 10 times, I'll pick this one up if I have painting to do. He's also right about gravity feeders. They are superior for weathering. You can put just a few drops in the bowl and use all of it, and they don't spit when the cup empties out like siphon feeders do. They will spray at lower pressures, and they're easier to clean!
As for starting out, old blue box freight cars, or Tyco stuff are a great place to start. You'll make mistakes, but everyone does. I've been doing it a long time and I still make mistakes. That's part of the learning process. Don't let fear hold you back. Relax, it's just paint! You can still get this set from Iwata: https://www.iwata-airbrush.com/real-deal-weathering-kit.html
It's watercolors, and if you goof, run to the kitchen sink and rinse it off! I taught many people to weather with these back in the day. The price looks a little steep, but discounts can be had if you use their local shopping option.
You get what you pay for, as with anything. You can get an Iwata Revolution for around $100.00, which is a good price range for a dependable airbrush. I have one in my stable and it's a good airbrush! There's also Grex, which is a good brand, and comparably priced. If you can, go to a store, one where you can pick them up and hold them. Regardless of brand, the airbrush should feel good in your hand, and be well balanced. Tony chose well. The Iwata HP-CS was my number one seller when I was doing an Iwata booth at train shows. It's very versatile. I have many airbrushes but 9 out of 10 times, I'll pick this one up if I have painting to do. He's also right about gravity feeders. They are superior for weathering. You can put just a few drops in the bowl and use all of it, and they don't spit when the cup empties out like siphon feeders do. They will spray at lower pressures, and they're easier to clean!
As for starting out, old blue box freight cars, or Tyco stuff are a great place to start. You'll make mistakes, but everyone does. I've been doing it a long time and I still make mistakes. That's part of the learning process. Don't let fear hold you back. Relax, it's just paint! You can still get this set from Iwata: https://www.iwata-airbrush.com/real-deal-weathering-kit.html
It's watercolors, and if you goof, run to the kitchen sink and rinse it off! I taught many people to weather with these back in the day. The price looks a little steep, but discounts can be had if you use their local shopping option.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Referring to my earlier post (I realised I was getting long winded)
Re: Airbrush get the best you can within your budget, but i definitely agree gravity feed is the way to go.
Compressor, what fits into your budget, mine was about $120. just ensure it's a compressor with a tank.
Practice,Practice,Practice find some old freight cars to practice on, fleaBay is a good place to look, or a show, cheaper the better, broken or not, if your N scale get some in HO/OO too, easier to see what doesn't work for you when you get it wrong (and you will), but that's great, you've just learned what not to do next time, but don't be afraid of making a mistake, rarely can a mistake not be undone with a little patience, some IPA, (or similar) and/or warm water.
Also practice using different settings on the compressor as that effects the volume of paint vs air
Paints, everyone has their favourite, same goes for powders, but I think that's a trial and error one, TomO, likes Tamiya paints, I prefer Vellejo at the moment, but I'm trying out a few Tamiya colours too, I may change but not sure.
But the most important part, enjoy what your doing, and have fun with it.
I'll shut up now.
Re: Airbrush get the best you can within your budget, but i definitely agree gravity feed is the way to go.
Compressor, what fits into your budget, mine was about $120. just ensure it's a compressor with a tank.
Practice,Practice,Practice find some old freight cars to practice on, fleaBay is a good place to look, or a show, cheaper the better, broken or not, if your N scale get some in HO/OO too, easier to see what doesn't work for you when you get it wrong (and you will), but that's great, you've just learned what not to do next time, but don't be afraid of making a mistake, rarely can a mistake not be undone with a little patience, some IPA, (or similar) and/or warm water.
Also practice using different settings on the compressor as that effects the volume of paint vs air
Paints, everyone has their favourite, same goes for powders, but I think that's a trial and error one, TomO, likes Tamiya paints, I prefer Vellejo at the moment, but I'm trying out a few Tamiya colours too, I may change but not sure.
But the most important part, enjoy what your doing, and have fun with it.
I'll shut up now.
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
I use the Paasche H airbrush. Check out these guys they should be near you Mike. They have different models and brands. I just ordered some new needles, tips and color cups for mine.
Paasche Single Action Airbrushes
SINGLE ACTION AIRBRUSH- Unlike the double action where air and fluid controls are combined, these same controls are independent of each other with the single action airbrush. While one hand is releasing a pre-set amount of air by pressing down on the button, the other hand adjusts a separate...
www.midwestairbrush.com
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Back to the in process 3 Covered Hoppers. I didn’t enjoy the results of streaking rust spots on one of the cars. Tried to gently remove it with mineral spirits.
Unknown to me at the time but I am definitely aware now. Odorless mineral spirits are much stronger then AK Interactive’s odorless white spirits. Took off a lot more than I wanted. So, had to go back and add back the grime layers.
About 4 hours ago I hit all 3 cars with a matte clear finish. Because I went with matte clear I can go with Pan Pastels, AK Interactive streaking grime or more Vallejo Air Arcylic washes. Normally I am not this indecisive but I learned something last night.
The majority of these 3 cars are made of aluminum and not steel. So the rust factor really is minimized to just around the steel supports for the roof walks. The rust on the side of the cars IS NOT the car sides rusting but the bleed from the roof walk support brackets. Also was told the roof hatches are generally fiberglass but the hinges are metal and will rust. Now the pictures I am working from make much more sense. The scratches on aluminum do not rust of course, but they do oxidize or darken but don’t bleed?
Unknown to me at the time but I am definitely aware now. Odorless mineral spirits are much stronger then AK Interactive’s odorless white spirits. Took off a lot more than I wanted. So, had to go back and add back the grime layers.
About 4 hours ago I hit all 3 cars with a matte clear finish. Because I went with matte clear I can go with Pan Pastels, AK Interactive streaking grime or more Vallejo Air Arcylic washes. Normally I am not this indecisive but I learned something last night.
The majority of these 3 cars are made of aluminum and not steel. So the rust factor really is minimized to just around the steel supports for the roof walks. The rust on the side of the cars IS NOT the car sides rusting but the bleed from the roof walk support brackets. Also was told the roof hatches are generally fiberglass but the hinges are metal and will rust. Now the pictures I am working from make much more sense. The scratches on aluminum do not rust of course, but they do oxidize or darken but don’t bleed?
TLOC
Well-Known Member
migalyto
MIKE, Air brushes.I have 7 but use only 3. The other 4 were gifts and never have been hooked up to an air hose.
These are what I use. CambriaArea51, Smudge617, wombat457 and EspeeFan have talked about theirs. It’s what you are comfortable with that matters. Like Alan (espeeFan) wrote, try to handle one before buying. While not possible online, as you get more familar you will get more comfy with whatever you buy. But make an effort to handle one.
Have fun
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Sold the last of these. Purchased 3 in September 2022 to weather and sell. Along with another 2 covered hoppers. 5 total Bachman cars and the first ones I have ever owned. Other than for pictures they never saw the layout. Much nicer cars than I had thought they would be. After tuning the trucks and putting on
steel wheels they roll great but are light cars.
I no longer buy cars just to weather and sell. It’s too hard to guess the market. Now I buy for me, weather them and sell off when and what I want
I no longer buy cars just to weather and sell. It’s too hard to guess the market. Now I buy for me, weather them and sell off when and what I want
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migalyto
Well-Known Member
Tom, Is this a good starter set?
Monroe Weathering Powder Assortment
This is the Monroe Models Weathering Powder Assortment hobby and model paint supply.
www.hobbylinc.com
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Yes it is, 1 oz. is enough you don't need to use a lot. Little goes a long way as you'll see.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Yep. I knew/still know the pharmacist in Wausau, Wi who started AIM Products. He sold the business to Monroe a few years ago. The powders are great and as Tom says they will go far
enjoy
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
That's looking really nice Tom, but yeah. I would go with a lighter grime and rust streaks on the other side, this side looks a trifle heavy on the grime, maybe lighten the right hand side a touch to even it out, but really happy the way this is looking.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Yep, I see what you are saying on the right sideThat's looking really nice Tom, but yeah. I would go with a lighter grime and rust streaks on the other side, this side looks a trifle heavy on the grime, maybe lighten the right hand side a touch to even it out, but really happy the way this is looking.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
While I wait for answers, I looked at a Gp38-2wl locomotive and thought, nope…another time. I was thinking for CamriaArea51‘s new Locomotive weathering Continous thread, I would jump in.
So instead, I pulled a couple covered hoppers out of the packaging and boy I was not happy. Missing a stirrup (not in the packaging) and all 4 car sides and tops are dirty. New from a brick and mortar store and I think they are pre-owned. I left them a message asking for a call back.
I can handle the stirrup and cleaning the cars before weathering. I have pulled the wheels and cleaned them. I tuned the trucks and cleaned them with the toothbrush scrubbing method. Tomorrow I will work on these as I wait for the current project
of the 3 Covered Hoppers to dry.
So on the weathering bench and sideboards. I have these 2 hoppers, the 3 in process hoppers and 4-1/87th scale vehicles for the neighbor down the street that is a model maker.
He was over after dinner. He also is a “expert” on crash scenes. I will paint the vehicles he brought over exactly as in the pictures. Unfortunately no pictures allowed even to forward to him.
So instead, I pulled a couple covered hoppers out of the packaging and boy I was not happy. Missing a stirrup (not in the packaging) and all 4 car sides and tops are dirty. New from a brick and mortar store and I think they are pre-owned. I left them a message asking for a call back.
I can handle the stirrup and cleaning the cars before weathering. I have pulled the wheels and cleaned them. I tuned the trucks and cleaned them with the toothbrush scrubbing method. Tomorrow I will work on these as I wait for the current project
So on the weathering bench and sideboards. I have these 2 hoppers, the 3 in process hoppers and 4-1/87th scale vehicles for the neighbor down the street that is a model maker.
He was over after dinner. He also is a “expert” on crash scenes. I will paint the vehicles he brought over exactly as in the pictures. Unfortunately no pictures allowed even to forward to him.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Sound like these were pre-owned, but they could have just been on display in the shop. But I fail to see how they could have missed the stirrup being missing.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Hard to see on a phone, but looks like your right, a little more streaking in a couple of places.
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Just looking at the couplers you can see they were used.
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