Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread

[TLOC]

On to the next project

Turning the above 3 shining cars into something close to these. Photos are credited on each. I found these

The client emailed me these

I will use the pictures as guides.

First thing this morning at the bench is I will remove the wheels and truck frames.

Since I like to do wheel sets and truck frames in batches I also will do the 6 pulp cars that were on the porch when we returned.

While strangely enough they are the same truck frames they are kept separately and will return to the car they were removed from. Not sure about the pulp car wheels if they are steel or not. They should be but the pulp cars from Walther’s did not always have steel wheel on the pulp cars. If not they will be replaced with steel ones in inventory.

Fading on the 9 cars will be different. The covered hoppers I need to think about. The 3 pictures he forwarded to me are very different. That’s a good thing…

But the pulp cars will get a touch of gray/green if these are the Procor cars WC used or just a light black/gray if not.

After the fading and clear coating process each car then will be handled individually

As always helpful hints, pictures and constructive criticism is requested. No problem if you state you don’t like it but only if you say why and can offer a reason. I take your suggestions seriously so don’t be hesitant

 

[Smudge617]

On to the next project

View attachment 161727View attachment 161728View attachment 161729View attachment 161730Turning the above 3 shining cars into something close to these. Photos are credited on each. I found these
View attachment 161731View attachment 161732The client emailed me these
View attachment 161735
View attachment 161734View attachment 161733I will use the pictures as guides.

First thing this morning at the bench is I will remove the wheels and truck frames.

Since I like to do wheel sets and truck frames in batches I also will do the 6 pulp cars that were on the porch when we returned.View attachment 161737While strangely enough they are the same truck frames they are kept separately and will return to the car they were removed from. Not sure about the pulp car wheels if they are steel or not. They should be but the pulp cars from Walther’s did not always have steel wheel on the pulp cars. If not they will be replaced with steel ones in inventory.

Fading on the 9 cars will be different. The covered hoppers I need to think about. The 3 pictures he forwarded to me are very different. That’s a good thing…

But the pulp cars will get a touch of gray/green if these are the Procor cars WC used or just a light black/gray if not.

After the fading and clear coating process each car then will be handled individually

As always helpful hints, pictures and constructive criticism is requested. No problem if you state you don’t like it but only if you say why and can offer a reason. I take your suggestions seriously so don’t be hesitant

Admit it, you love a challenge.
But I think the last one your client sent is just too yellow, ignore that one, it just won't match up with the others.

 

[TLOC]

Admit it, you love a challenge.
But I think the last one your client sent is just too yellow, ignore that one, it just won't match up with the others.

Ok. I will let the client know I will ignore the last one as 2 yellow. He’ll understand…

 

[TLOC]

The process has begun, cleaning

Now they dry as I was just reminded because we were out yesterday, I have a couple chores to finish. Actually it’s good timing

The pulp cars are drying at another location

 

[Horror Business]

I greatly appreciate the detailed list of steps you take and the materials you all use. Great stuff! The progress photos are super helpful too.

 

[TLOC]

I greatly appreciate the detailed list of steps you take and the materials you all use. Great stuff! The progress photos are super helpful too.

You are welcome

 

[TLOC]

The trucks and wheels dried while I vacuumed!

Sorry bad camera angle but the 2 wheels on the left are painted.

Another set of pictures just taken, hope these are clearer

The paint I used here was Vallejo Colors # 70.822 German C Black hand brushed on both the trucks and wheel faces. 1st coating

Trying to match to the pictures the truck frames will get a dusting of a light gray dry brushed. The inside of the wheels wheels will get hand painted Vallejo Air Dark umber. #70.041. Not 100% sure yet what final color the wheel faces will get

 

[TLOC]

sent to the client, hope he likes these.

Used Vallejo Air #71.044 Gray RLM02 brushed on straight from the bottle. Then while still damp took a wide medium stiff brush and blended the color

I think it matches up with the prototype

 

[Smudge617]

sent to the client, hope he likes these.
View attachment 161766View attachment 161767Used Vallejo Air #71.044 Gray RLM02 brushed on straight from the bottle. Then while still damp took a wide medium stiff brush and blended the color

I think it matches up with the prototype
View attachment 161769

Nice, I like that.

 

[CambriaArea51]

I bought some Vellejo matt (26.651), seems pretty easy to work with, but definately need to thin it first.

Never used the matt but never thinned the paint I've tried.

 

[Smudge617]

Never used the matt but never thinned the paint I've tried.

It's say's you can use it undiluted with a .4 needle, but it's still quite thick, normal Vellejo air paints I don't thin, but the model paints are too thick not to thin

 

[TLOC]

It's say's you can use it undiluted with a .4 needle, but it's still quite thick, normal Vellejo air paints I don't thin, but the model paints are too thick not to thin

I never have thinned the Vallejo Air line of paints. For Vallejo Model Color and Panzer Aces I used the Vallejo Air brush thinner. My chart says 60% paint to 40% thinner.

But, during Covid I completely switched to Tamiya Acrylic’s and Isopropyl Alcohol in the airbrush. My Vallejo paint bottles are becoming less and less. I use them for weathering washes and need less colors

 

[Smudge617]

I never have thinned the Vallejo Air line of paints. For Vallejo Model Color and Panzer Aces I used the Vallejo Air brush thinner. My chart says 60% paint to 40% thinner.

But, during Covid I completely switched to Tamiya Acrylic’s and Isopropyl Alcohol in the airbrush. My Vallejo paint bottles are becoming less and less. I use them for weathering washes and need less colors

I've tried the few Tamiya paints I have but found that they do have a distinct odour to them, something Vellejo doesn't or if they have I don't notice it.

 

[TLOC]

I've tried the few Tamiya paints I have but found that they do have a distinct odour to them, something Vellejo doesn't or if they have I don't notice it.

Never noticed an odor?! I do use them in the spray booth and I wear a n95 mask

 

[Espeefan]

Never noticed an odor?! I do use them in the spray booth and I wear a n95 mask

Alcohol. Not obnoxious but there.

 

[Espeefan]

It's say's you can use it undiluted with a .4 needle, but it's still quite thick, normal Vellejo air paints I don't thin, but the model paints are too thick not to thin

I met the Vallejo folks many years ago at I-Hobby in Chicago. They were just getting started in the US market. We had an interesting discussion with them. My partner and I were just starting to market Iwata airbrushes up here in Wisconsin. The deal on Model Color vs. Model Air is that the pigment grind used in Model Color paints is coarser than that used in Model Air. Model Color is designed for brushing. I do love the way it loads onto a brush, and it's easy to use, but it can give you heartburn in an airbrush. You can go two ways with it. Either thin until it sprays well, or go to larger needles in your airbrush. Now this is just me, but I prefer smaller needles. I want fine atomization and fine lines, especially for weathering. I like to be able to get next to caboose windows and spray without getting paint on the glass, and I can do that with some of the setups I use. I won't advise against spraying Model Color, especially since people are already doing it, but if you find yourself cleaning your airbrush more often, or blowing out clogs, or having to pick paint blobs off of your tip more often than when using anything else, this is why. Fun fact!

 

[TLOC]

I met the Vallejo folks many years ago at I-Hobby in Chicago. They were just getting started in the US market. We had an interesting discussion with them. My partner and I were just starting to market Iwata airbrushes up here in Wisconsin. The deal on Model Color vs. Model Air is that the pigment grind used in Model Color paints is coarser than that used in Model Air. Model Color is designed for brushing. I do love the way it loads onto a brush, and it's easy to use, but it can give you heartburn in an airbrush. You can go two ways with it. Either thin until it sprays well, or go to larger needles in your airbrush. Now this is just me, but I prefer smaller needles. I want fine atomization and fine lines, especially for weathering. I like to be able to get next to caboose windows and spray without getting paint on the glass, and I can do that with some of the setups I use. I won't advise against spraying Model Color, especially since people are already doing it, but if you find yourself cleaning your airbrush more often, or blowing out clogs, or having to pick paint blobs off of your tip more often than when using anything else, this is why. Fun fact!

Thanks for that info Alan. I have not sprayed the Model Color for a couple years and I don't miss the airbrush issues I had with it

 

[Smudge617]

I met the Vallejo folks many years ago at I-Hobby in Chicago. They were just getting started in the US market. We had an interesting discussion with them. My partner and I were just starting to market Iwata airbrushes up here in Wisconsin. The deal on Model Color vs. Model Air is that the pigment grind used in Model Color paints is coarser than that used in Model Air. Model Color is designed for brushing. I do love the way it loads onto a brush, and it's easy to use, but it can give you heartburn in an airbrush. You can go two ways with it. Either thin until it sprays well, or go to larger needles in your airbrush. Now this is just me, but I prefer smaller needles. I want fine atomization and fine lines, especially for weathering. I like to be able to get next to caboose windows and spray without getting paint on the glass, and I can do that with some of the setups I use. I won't advise against spraying Model Color, especially since people are already doing it, but if you find yourself cleaning your airbrush more often, or blowing out clogs, or having to pick paint blobs off of your tip more often than when using anything else, this is why. Fun fact!

Thank's for that Ian, I've only a few model paints, just colours/shades they don't have in the air paints, and yes I found out the hard way about cleaning the airbrush, that's half an hour of my life I won't get back, I'll usually use an .3 needle, seem to get reasonably consistent results, but still very much a novice in airbrushing techniques.

 

[CambriaArea51]

Never had any problems with paint that you guys describe. Very few times I've thinned paint. Must be the airbrush.

 

[Smudge617]

Never had any problems with paint that you guys describe. Very few times I've thinned paint. Must be the airbrush.

Quite possibly for me, still using my $15 Chinese ones, but at some point going to have to bite the bullet and use my Harder & Steenbeck airbrush