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That would be quite an undertaking. We got the DCC Specialties PSX_ARSC off of Lithchfield Station. I had to get the snap coil one which are a little more than the stall motor. Snap coils=$56, stall motor=$48. Here's a link www.litchfieldstation.com
Thanks for the link Ron. The one I'm looking at building is a pretty simple design but the PIC chip involved is an older one that may be difficult to program with the rig I have, hence the question.
Final had time to go down to my Dad's house. I got some glitches hammered out (or even sawed out in one case). But the main thing I accomplished was wiring. I installed 2 of the DCC Specialties PSX-ARSC reverser decoders. They worked great after I adjusted the trip voltage. They come factory set to 3.8V, but after setting it to 1.27V and then 2.4V, the engines ran smoothly in and out of the loop. I also ran multiple engines in different direction and had no problems.
Here is the area of track I cut with a Dremel and glued styrene to insulate the loop. View attachment 7923
In this next one you can see how I staggered the cut by about 1/8" as per instruction. The 2 outside tracks are the ones that lead down to staging area. View attachment 7924
Here are the same areas after I cut and filed the styrene back to the profile of the track. View attachment 7925
This is one of the PSX-ARSC decoders. Click on the image to see descriptions. View attachment 7927
Here are some of the terminal strips under the layout. The one on the left is the main strip going to the districts and the reverses units. The one on the right is dedicated to the 3 reverser decoders. View attachment 7928
This is a video of the decoders and terminal strip.
I actually had the turntable hooked up and running, but I forgot to film it... AAAaaarrrgh . It was getting late in the day and I had to put the turntable bridge away. It did run well. I put the Athearn F3 on it and had the bell ring to see of there were any dead spots on it. There were a couple spots the sound cut out and then came back on. I'm wondering if was dirty wiper or pickups on the bridge. I couldn't run any engines on or off the bridge because I have put in the service tracks in yet. The factory set 2 indexed spots worked well and the bridge turned to "Zero" when I told it to.
Next trip down I'll hook up the last revered section, the branch line, and start to install the engine service tracks around the turntable.
I'm glad the videos help. As I'm doing the work i try to make a conscious effort to film as I go. The one thing I goofed up on was not filming the turntables 1st run. It was getting late and I just had to see it spin just a few times, before I rushed back home.
Next trip, it will be the 1st thing I do... everyone loves a turntable.
If you had it to do all over again would you still use code 83 and Atlas turnouts? I am getting ready to begin a layout about the same size maybe larger and wanted to get an idea of how you feel things are working out with track selections you made. Looks great, keep sending the pictures and video, we love it!
Thanks Carl,
Yes and No. I would use code 83 track again(for the main lines, and maybe code 70 or 55 for the sidings). But for the turnouts I've been getting the itch to try hand layed ones. Especially after seeing Chip PRR Indiana Branch switching layout, and the turnouts he made. The Fast Tracks system looks very easy to do and the quality is far superior to store bought ones. I've never made a turnout before, so I don't know how my patience would fare . If the hand layed doesn't work out, then I would turn to Walther's/Shinohara and Peco. They would be powered by Tortoise machines w/ Rabbit and Hare DCC controls... but all that adds up in the $'s and cent's column. A few of the decisions we made for his layout were based on money. This is my Dad's layout and mainly his wallet. When I eventually build my layout, I'll pull out all the stops. It may take a little longer to build it (because I haven't won the Mega-Millions lotto... Yet.) But I know in the long run the added quality of product used will overall enhance the total layout.
Ron, having the NMRA track gage is key to doing the hand laid turnouts IMO. When I first started doing mine they were a bit frustrating, but I just built number 15 last night and I'm down to 1.5 hours just using the template. That includes install and test time.
The Fast Tracks way is probably way easier since it holds everything in place as you go, but it is still very doable with just a template. It is important to keep everything "in gauge" as you go so you don't have to make as many adjustments later.
It would be interesting to see a video, or photo tutorial on how to use that system, next time you build one take some pictures or better yet a video ;-)
It would be interesting to see a video, or photo tutorial on how to use that system, next time you build one take some pictures or better yet a video ;-)
The top video (ID UG01) is about 1hr.15min. so hopefully you have cable and not dial-up. The video is great and is what pushed me over the edge to consider hand-laying.
Ah now you did it, I have been building and repairing digital electronics for years, so this is right up my alley! I am going to think hard about doing this for sure, it look very easy, but as most things looks usually are deceiving. They make it look easy. I guess it would be an investment that you could always re-sell :-( if you had to. If I could get it down to 1 an hour or so, I would be on it like who wouldn't have it. Anyone else here using this method, how do you like it? How long does it take to make a standard turnout. (I have to stop calling them switches).
If I went this rout I may choose code 83, They have a number of choices for turn out number. What would be recommendations for size of turnouts to use, I know there is a large choice here, but from recollection anything smaller and a #6 is really not to scale of prototype? Same for radius less than 22" i s no good. Thoughts?
The flex track is doing fine. The turnouts are OK, but need some tweaking on the frogs. Some of the older, deeper flange wheels bottoms out. I haven't change all my equipment over to metal wheels,yet. The double crossover is a Walther's/Shinohara, and that is working real well. Like I said above, I would have had all Shinohara if it weren't for the $ issue.
Thanks for the link Ron. The one I'm looking at building is a pretty simple design but the PIC chip involved is an older one that may be difficult to program with the rig I have, hence the question.
Can you post the diagram or pm me about it?? I'm looking at building my reverser and I'm not sure where I want to put a microchip on it to control it or what yet. Thanks
Nick
I have no problem sharing the plan. I have the xtrkcad file available at the yahoo group site. You have to be a member to get access, but that's easy to do. Yahoo group Xtrkcad
I hope this helps you. Please post any mods you make to the plan, I would be interested in how you change it to suit your needs.
Can you post the diagram or pm me about it?? I'm looking at building my reverser and I'm not sure where I want to put a microchip on it to control it or what yet. Thanks
Nick
. It was getting late in the day and I had to put the turntable bridge away. It did run well. I put the Athearn F3 on it and had the bell ring to see of there were any dead spots on it. There were a couple spots the sound cut out and then came back on. I'm wondering if was dirty wiper or pickups on the bridge. I couldn't run any engines on or off the bridge because I have put in the service tracks in yet. The factory set 2 indexed spots worked well and the bridge turned to "Zero" when I told it to.
. If the hand layed doesn't work out, then I would turn to Walther's/Shinohara and Peco. They would be powered by Tortoise machines w/ Rabbit and Hare DCC controls... but all that adds up in the $'s and cent's column. A few of the decisions we made for his layout were based on money. This is my Dad's layout and mainly his wallet. When I eventually build my layout, I'll pull out all the stops. It may take a little longer to build it (because I haven't won the Mega-Millions lotto... Yet.) But I know in the long run the added quality of product used will overall enhance the total layout.
