Boilerbuster
Member
BB's work good as weights as well.
HO Car Derailments
- Thread starter BNTorsney
- Start date
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I drilled a hole with a drill in a pin vise that was just a little smaller in diameter than the nail. It was much easier to install.
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jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
SPST push buttons to operate the turnouts, Atlas snap relays which can be mounted under the table to power the frogs and indicators.
NMRA Weight Standard
I finally got my scale, it is a real beauty, perfect for any model railroad hobbyist. I now know why I need a helper engine to climb those train-board grades during my initial test, each freight car was OVER 6 ounces!
In the first photo you can see the steel bar I used. In the second photo, after doing some calculations, I came to the conclusion that a 1 inch piece of that steel would be perfect for the freight cars. In the third photo, you can see I got pretty close to the standard of 3.75 ounces. If I wanted to file a little more, I could have got it closer, but I felt the NMRA wouldn't mind.
In the fourth photo, the caboose is 4 1/2 inches in length. According to the NMRA is should weigh 3.25 ounces. On this smaller car I added a 2 inch piece of steel and got close enough to the weight I was shooting for.
I finally got my scale, it is a real beauty, perfect for any model railroad hobbyist. I now know why I need a helper engine to climb those train-board grades during my initial test, each freight car was OVER 6 ounces!
In the first photo you can see the steel bar I used. In the second photo, after doing some calculations, I came to the conclusion that a 1 inch piece of that steel would be perfect for the freight cars. In the third photo, you can see I got pretty close to the standard of 3.75 ounces. If I wanted to file a little more, I could have got it closer, but I felt the NMRA wouldn't mind.
In the fourth photo, the caboose is 4 1/2 inches in length. According to the NMRA is should weigh 3.25 ounces. On this smaller car I added a 2 inch piece of steel and got close enough to the weight I was shooting for.
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For Atlas 150-66
Your stating I can use any SPST switch, to control the Atlas 150-66 switch?
jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
Not a SPST switch. A SPST push-button. All you need is a momentary contact. When it's all wired correctly a push of the button will snap the switch machine to the desired track and at the same time snap the snap relay to power the frog + or - as needed.
SPDT Momentary Switch w/ Center Off
A sp/"S"t switch is a basic on/off switch. For a turnout you need A sp/"D"t configuration. The "D" in place of the "S" stands for DOUBLE throw (two choices). Because it's a solenoid were are switching, between two (double throw) choices, we only need "momentary" contact. In addition, we need an "off" position. The technical phrase for this combination, is SP/DT MOMENTARY w/ CENTER OFF switch.
I found these switches Online for a very good price. The web-site's minimum order is $15.00, so I had to order 30; for $.51 each, who's complaining?
Because the "center-off" position of the switch is the "default" position. You will need means, other that the switch's physical position, to know which track is selected; I will accomplish this with a red AND green LED. I found a new style LED, one that changes color between red and green. At each turn-out location on my control board, I will position one switch and one LED. The single LED will show red for branch or spur tracks and green for the main line.
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=5009+SW
A sp/"S"t switch is a basic on/off switch. For a turnout you need A sp/"D"t configuration. The "D" in place of the "S" stands for DOUBLE throw (two choices). Because it's a solenoid were are switching, between two (double throw) choices, we only need "momentary" contact. In addition, we need an "off" position. The technical phrase for this combination, is SP/DT MOMENTARY w/ CENTER OFF switch.
I found these switches Online for a very good price. The web-site's minimum order is $15.00, so I had to order 30; for $.51 each, who's complaining?
Because the "center-off" position of the switch is the "default" position. You will need means, other that the switch's physical position, to know which track is selected; I will accomplish this with a red AND green LED. I found a new style LED, one that changes color between red and green. At each turn-out location on my control board, I will position one switch and one LED. The single LED will show red for branch or spur tracks and green for the main line.
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=5009+SW
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A Bit Heavy!
Without the scale, this test was just to prove that weight would help stop the derailments; which it did. What I never planned on, was needing a helper engine to get the test car UP the "Torsney-Pass" GRADE!!
jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
Sounds like you have your wiring planned out pretty good. I didn't even think about what type I would use until after the track was set in.
Older more Patient
The ONLY time I now suffer a derailment, can be directly connected to "operator error;" I occasionally leave the turn-out switch in the wrong position. I am now in the processing for ordering everything that I will need, to "upgrade" ALL the turn-outs, one turn-out at a time; which should help cut-down on these "mind" errors - it's going to be a lot of FUN, God Bless Retirement!
I built this layout 8 years ago. Today, at age 60, I have more patience than I ever had at age 52. Now the REAL fun starts, "tweaking" all the little things that I couldn't see years ago. After three week of working on it again, I corrected ALL the derailments associated with trackage and BASIC construction. Thanks to the valuable information obtained at this forum, I now have corrected ALL the derailments associated with "rolling-stock."
The ONLY time I now suffer a derailment, can be directly connected to "operator error;" I occasionally leave the turn-out switch in the wrong position. I am now in the processing for ordering everything that I will need, to "upgrade" ALL the turn-outs, one turn-out at a time; which should help cut-down on these "mind" errors - it's going to be a lot of FUN, God Bless Retirement!
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Perhaps I shouldn't have said "ALL"
When I first got back into this layout, I purchased one pair of Kadee 504 "Ride-Control" trucks. Installing these on the plastic frame called for the removal of the lips and sanding it smooth. The problem then became the free-turning of the trucks. I originally had to leave the truck screw so loose, I was suffering the same "roll-over" type derailment. I decided to add a lubricant to the truck seat and tighten the mounting screw. First I tried liquid soap, which apparently didn't have the right qualities to get the job done; I then cleaned that off the truck and frame seats with Windex. I hit a home run when I decided to add a light coat of white marine lithium grease. This grease allowed me to tighten the screw tight enough, to remove most of the side to side play of the truck. This combines with the new "wider seat area" of the Kadee 504 trucks stopped the derailing problem. I am so happy with the results, I've ordered another seven pair of the Kadee 504 trucks for the other 7 Athearn cars.
Quality pays. When derailments, not associated with the mind, started showing again, it was ALWAYS the older Athearn box cars that I added the weight to. The factory trucks apparently didn't like the extra weight. The mount on the plastic frame for these trucks has a lip. When the mounting screw hits this lip it stops, creating A LOT of play. With the extra NMRA weight, at higher speeds on corners, the cars would derail.
When I first got back into this layout, I purchased one pair of Kadee 504 "Ride-Control" trucks. Installing these on the plastic frame called for the removal of the lips and sanding it smooth. The problem then became the free-turning of the trucks. I originally had to leave the truck screw so loose, I was suffering the same "roll-over" type derailment. I decided to add a lubricant to the truck seat and tighten the mounting screw. First I tried liquid soap, which apparently didn't have the right qualities to get the job done; I then cleaned that off the truck and frame seats with Windex. I hit a home run when I decided to add a light coat of white marine lithium grease. This grease allowed me to tighten the screw tight enough, to remove most of the side to side play of the truck. This combines with the new "wider seat area" of the Kadee 504 trucks stopped the derailing problem. I am so happy with the results, I've ordered another seven pair of the Kadee 504 trucks for the other 7 Athearn cars.
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I drilled a hole with a drill in a pin vise that was just a little smaller in diameter than the nail. It was much easier to install.
This is what you need: http://www.micromark.com/3-PIECE-TRACKLAYING-TOOL-SET-WITH-CANVAS-POUCH,9200.html. Good election of top quality tools for track layoing or just get the spike insertion pliers if you already have a good rail nipper and spike remover. Great pliers and makes driving a spike home straight dead easy every time.
Stanley Nail Set
I've attached a photo of Stanley's nail set, the only reason I haven't ordered yet, is I don't know the size number of the nails.
I had a similar tool, this plywood is too hard, I could never push the nail in. I was thinking of drilling a hole as Duke 94 suggested, but my pin vice will not hold a drill that small.
I've attached a photo of Stanley's nail set, the only reason I haven't ordered yet, is I don't know the size number of the nails.
BN, why are you putting spikes into plywood? They should be going into some kind of roadbed material, like cork or foam. Those spike were not engineered to stand up to being driven into plywood. If you have to drive nails into plywood. the Stanly nail set and some small finishing brads should work. If you're laying track right on plywood, I'd use latex caulk rather than try to nail it.
The undecorated SW-1500 is worth somewhere between $25 to $40, depending on how bad someone wants the undecorated version. The model itself is very common and Athearn produced tons of them so they will never have any collectors value, if that's what you're asking.
The undecorated SW-1500 is worth somewhere between $25 to $40, depending on how bad someone wants the undecorated version. The model itself is very common and Athearn produced tons of them so they will never have any collectors value, if that's what you're asking.
Grey Sponge Roadbed
I have attached two photos of the Atlas 100 track laying equipment I use. The photos should be self-explanatory, I would value your comments; I've ordered from Sear.com the Stanley tool.
Thank you for the price spread on the engine, that's the kind of information I was hoping to get. If I can ever get past Ebay's, error FP001, I might find out what I can get for it.
I have attached two photos of the Atlas 100 track laying equipment I use. The photos should be self-explanatory, I would value your comments; I've ordered from Sear.com the Stanley tool.
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