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What size drill bit are you pre-drilling with? Do you have a size number for the pin-vise?
HO Car Derailments
- Thread starter BNTorsney
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Several of us on the forum, and most in my club uses DexronIII auto transmission fluid as an oil. A quart will last forever, is just as good as if not better than Labelle, IMHO. Also is a lot cheaper than Labelle.
For grease, where needed on occasion, I still use Labelle Teflon grease.
In the end I got exactly what I wanted, you just have to be persistent and keep far away from the dishonest entrepreneurs.
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Ordered pin-vice
http://www.shop.cmlsupply.com/product.sc?categoryId=-1&productId=156
Working on this railroad is a sheer joy and a lot less expensive than working on this:
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=14005.0
Duke94 thanks but the information will not be necessary, I found what I need and ordered it Online:
http://www.shop.cmlsupply.com/product.sc?categoryId=-1&productId=156
Working on this railroad is a sheer joy and a lot less expensive than working on this:
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=14005.0
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1 of 6 engines with derailment problem
My derailment problems are pretty much over except for one Kato engine. It is one of the two GP35 I purchased last. Like my other equipment it sat without use for a long time.
This one engine derails most of the time on the same 18 inch radius curve. The other five engines never derail and if I turn the problem engine around, it stops derailing? I've check the distance between the wheels with my NMRA gauge and everything look within specs. I double and triple checked that section of track and can't see anything out of the ordinary. If anyone has any ideas why only this one engine, and only in one direction, is derailing I would like to hear it.
My derailment problems are pretty much over except for one Kato engine. It is one of the two GP35 I purchased last. Like my other equipment it sat without use for a long time.
This one engine derails most of the time on the same 18 inch radius curve. The other five engines never derail and if I turn the problem engine around, it stops derailing? I've check the distance between the wheels with my NMRA gauge and everything look within specs. I double and triple checked that section of track and can't see anything out of the ordinary. If anyone has any ideas why only this one engine, and only in one direction, is derailing I would like to hear it.
jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
I've had a few locos that did that. The way I solved it was to open the offending truck and switch the wheels around. Move the wheels from the front of the truck to the rear and vise versa.
lmackattack
old school
turn the power off and place a level over the rails if you can see a large gap under one side one of the wheels may be riding up. I had a simmilar problem with a 6 axel in a slight curve that I could not figure out, it was only when the level was on the rails was it easly noticed that one rail was lower and letting the forward most wheel flange ride over the top of the outside rail. just a suggetion
trent
trent
Level showed problem
Thank you Trent, the level showed the problem very quickly. Photo number one shows a level track, this is the section of track just before the problem area. Photo number two shows how out of level the problem area was. Photo number three shows the fundamental problem, the cut separating the two different levels of the train-board inside the track wasn't long enough. Because of this, it was pulling the inner side of the track down. Photo number four show the improvement in level and the longer cut on the inside of the tracks.
I had to remove some track to do the work. When I reinstalled it, I used a number 70 drill for the track pilot holes, something I hadn't done originally. This pilot hole made all the difference installing the track nails, no more bending. I was almost able to push the nail in with my small cutters, after that a slight tap with the hammer and punch and the track was secure.
I ran the problem engine facing both ways, with a full load of freight cars. I varied the speeds from the slowest to maximum and I had no derailments.
With the tracks that far out of level, I can't understand why only one engine had a problem. But from now on, if I want to check a section of track for problems, the GP35 Burlington number 2522 with do the checking!
Thank you Trent, the level showed the problem very quickly. Photo number one shows a level track, this is the section of track just before the problem area. Photo number two shows how out of level the problem area was. Photo number three shows the fundamental problem, the cut separating the two different levels of the train-board inside the track wasn't long enough. Because of this, it was pulling the inner side of the track down. Photo number four show the improvement in level and the longer cut on the inside of the tracks.
I had to remove some track to do the work. When I reinstalled it, I used a number 70 drill for the track pilot holes, something I hadn't done originally. This pilot hole made all the difference installing the track nails, no more bending. I was almost able to push the nail in with my small cutters, after that a slight tap with the hammer and punch and the track was secure.
I ran the problem engine facing both ways, with a full load of freight cars. I varied the speeds from the slowest to maximum and I had no derailments.
With the tracks that far out of level, I can't understand why only one engine had a problem. But from now on, if I want to check a section of track for problems, the GP35 Burlington number 2522 with do the checking!
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Cjcrescent
Master Mechanic
Several of us on the forum, and most in my club uses DexronIII auto transmission fluid as an oil. A quart will last forever, is just as good as if not better than Labelle, IMHO. Also is a lot cheaper than Labelle.
For grease, where needed on occasion, I still use Labelle Teflon grease.
jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
Dexron III/Mercon for me.
Selector
Well-Known Member
The level placed transversely as you show it is a good idea to see if the engine will be level itself in that aspect. However, a better way to show the problem, if one exists, is to place the level longitudinally, or following the major axis of the track. Use a back light, behind the rails, and get your eyes down to rail height. If you can see lengths of light showing between the level and the rail heads, you may have found the place(s) where the flanges get lifted out.
Remember, too, that flex track at times loses much of its gauge when it is bent into a curve. It gets somewhat worse as the curve is tightened. That, alone can cause the trucks to want to pop up out of the tight gauge.
Remember, too, that flex track at times loses much of its gauge when it is bent into a curve. It gets somewhat worse as the curve is tightened. That, alone can cause the trucks to want to pop up out of the tight gauge.
Applicator
What do you use to apply the lubricant in small precise amounts?
Terrific, thank you that is the kind of "home-made" information I was looking for. When I saw that Atlas's "Loco/track maintenance kit" was $32.95, I thought, "there HAS to be a better way!"
What do you use to apply the lubricant in small precise amounts?
Selector
Well-Known Member
Take a steel sewing needle, a good sized one about 1.5" long, and nip the eye in half so that you end up with a Y instead of the long closed loop of the eye. Then nip off the point on the other end. With the engine inverted, and cradled so that it won't roll, you dip the truncated eye into a drop or two of the ATF held in a soda bottle cap and then apply it to the place intended. Use bright light and an Opti-Visor for best efficiency.
-Crandell
-Crandell
jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
If you want a disposable applicator try the humble toothpick.
Oil designed safe for plastic
The transmission fluid I was going to use, but I was unable to locate a precision dispenser. Persistence paid off, I finally found a synthetic oil product, in a precision dispenser for a reasonable price. It was designed for "slot cars," which are plastic and need lubrication. The train engines require such little oil, this product should last a very long time. If it ever runs out, I will fill it with Dextron III.
http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/Lubricants.html
The transmission fluid I was going to use, but I was unable to locate a precision dispenser. Persistence paid off, I finally found a synthetic oil product, in a precision dispenser for a reasonable price. It was designed for "slot cars," which are plastic and need lubrication. The train engines require such little oil, this product should last a very long time. If it ever runs out, I will fill it with Dextron III.
http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/Lubricants.html
kbkchooch
Verified Human
I've got some syringes that I pruchased from a tool vendor at the Scale Show In Timonium a few years back. They look like your typical medical syringe, but have about a 4 inch tube extending from them with a squared off end (no point!) Very controllable ! They were about 2 bucks apiece. I have one filled with Dexron, the other holds smoke fluid for the steamers. Both are easily re-filled. Just stick the end in the correct fluid, and draw back on the plunger. Instant refill!
That's the type of product I was searching for on the Internet. I was only able to find one, priced a little under three dollars. The problem surfaced at check out, almost twelve dollars for S&H; this device weighed nothing that a first-class stamp couldn't handle. I think all these businesses are taking their "Q's" from the computer printer business; buy a printer and the replacement ink cartridge cost more than the printer itself!
In the end I got exactly what I wanted, you just have to be persistent and keep far away from the dishonest entrepreneurs.
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"
When that is not possible, I use a mirror (3" x 6") to get my eyes on the back side or other impossible places. Run the offending car/loco over the area at slow speed and the problem can be located.
Another tool I use is a piece of plexiglass, about the size of a long freight car, with a pair of trucks mounted to it. One can be bought but this one cost nothing. Run it over the area/curve/switch and watch the derailment.
To isolate and offending car, I put a piece of masting tape on the top of the cars, at the coupler end, that seem to derail regularly. Then I shuffle the cars and ends to determine which car/truck/coulpler is the culprit.
Most often, a shim fixes the problem on the track. Setting the guage on the truck most often cures the car problem.
"
When that is not possible, I use a mirror (3" x 6") to get my eyes on the back side or other impossible places. Run the offending car/loco over the area at slow speed and the problem can be located.
Another tool I use is a piece of plexiglass, about the size of a long freight car, with a pair of trucks mounted to it. One can be bought but this one cost nothing. Run it over the area/curve/switch and watch the derailment.
To isolate and offending car, I put a piece of masting tape on the top of the cars, at the coupler end, that seem to derail regularly. Then I shuffle the cars and ends to determine which car/truck/coulpler is the culprit.
Most often, a shim fixes the problem on the track. Setting the guage on the truck most often cures the car problem.
Atlas Turn-Table TOO high
I have used the Atlas turn-table on two difference layouts. On the first one I used "cork" roadbed; the hight of the roadbed and turntable was the same.
On my present layout I used the gray sponge roadbed. With this roadbed the Atlas turn-table sits approximate between 1/16 to 1/8 inch higher than the sponge road-bed.
In the beginning, just to get it in and the track down, I utilized rather short wooden shims to make up the difference in height. It's not very good, the short wheelbase engines climb it, the problem is the longer engines which derail. The only thing I can think to do is replace the roadbed with cork to bring it up to the same height.
I would be willing to purchase another turn-table if the height was less. Any ideas how to correct this problem, would be appreciated.
I have used the Atlas turn-table on two difference layouts. On the first one I used "cork" roadbed; the hight of the roadbed and turntable was the same.
On my present layout I used the gray sponge roadbed. With this roadbed the Atlas turn-table sits approximate between 1/16 to 1/8 inch higher than the sponge road-bed.
In the beginning, just to get it in and the track down, I utilized rather short wooden shims to make up the difference in height. It's not very good, the short wheelbase engines climb it, the problem is the longer engines which derail. The only thing I can think to do is replace the roadbed with cork to bring it up to the same height.
I would be willing to purchase another turn-table if the height was less. Any ideas how to correct this problem, would be appreciated.
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