First decoder install ever... Intimidating.

[Frenchie]

Those plastic caps are used to hold the wires on. Here's how they work.
The cap has a notch on one side.
View attachment 272561

The wire is inserted into the hole on the tab from the side without a runner contact.
View attachment 272562

Then you push the cap on with the notch on the wire insulation side.
View attachment 272563

The wire gets trapped against the electrical runner on the other side.
View attachment 272564

Folks normally recommend soldering the wire directly to the tab and not using the cap, but I've never had any issues.

For the LED, since it already has a resistor built in, that makes it easy. From your photo, that arrow is pin 1. It should have an orange wire on it. Pin 2 is where you'll connect the tail light LED -. Pin 6 is for the headlight LED -. Pin 7 is for the head and tail light LED +.
View attachment 272567

Before removing the caps, verify that the lamps are connected to these tabs/pins. But from your other photo, it looks to be correct. Pin 2 should be a yellow wire, pin 6 is white and pin 7 is blue.

Wow, thank's a lot, great and detailed explanations.
I knew how to use those caps but I didn't know what their use was. It's now very clear.

Now if I connect a Blunami decoder by way of the 8 pin plug plus an 8 to 9 pin adapter,
are those tabs on the floating board useless
or should I still use them for the front and rear lights ?
I wonder if those tabs are controled by the decoder or not.
I will probably check with Soundtraxx, but your opinion is important to me.

 

[Frenchie]

Soundtraxx BLU-PNP8 decoder might work in a Proto BL2:
View attachment 272577
It does fit right into Proto1000 RS3, RS11 and Proto2000 GP30, SD7/9.

Looks like it requires a space for installation about 75mm long (measure to be sure).
Depends on how much of a "cutout" is "on top" where the old light board is.

I use the Soundtraxx MC2H104at (motor only) decoder in a number of my Proto2000/1000 engines. Works just fine.

Thank's J.Albert.
Good idea, I know those decoders pretty well.
I already installed 6 Blu PNP8 into three old Katos, one Atlas and two old Stewarts.
That’s something to try.

 

[Frenchie]

To install a PNP8 I will have to remove the floating board cutting the wires short, then, write down which wire is what.
Then make wire extensions to be connected to the decoder.
I hope that makes sense !

 

[Kusojiji]

IMO, the PNP8 would be a cleaner install. You can probably use the caps on the floating board on the PNP8 to hold the wires. You'll probably need to extend or shorten the wires as needed. Make sure to kapton tape the frame under and at the ends of the decoder to keep the frame from touching anything electrical on the decoder.

But to answer your question, the extra blue and white wires are for the light bulbs that are currently installed, so they will be removed when you install the LEDs. The LEDs will be attached to that floating connector and the blunami 8 pin plugged into the floating connector. There should not be any extra wires. If I remember correctly, the existing PCB/decoder is raised off the frame a little bit and the wires run under it.

 

[Kusojiji]

They should be following the color code on the 8 pin diagram I posted earlier. That's NMRA standard. But, it always good to verify.

 

[Frenchie]

The idea of installing a PNP 8 was great until I measured the available space. Width is ok but length is only 60.5 mm. I would have to mill down
and cut part of the weight, Naw, that's a bit too much for the tools I have.

I'll have to go with the Blu 2200 plus an 8 to 9 pin connector, that will be the easiest way. There is also a plug for the current keeper at one end.
The 2200 is only 42mm long. Width is 18.8mm, it'll be a tight fit but I'll manage. Height slightly thicker than the PNP 8, 6.8mm vs 5 mm.
Again no problem.
Concerning the speaker, the ultra flat ones I use are 3mm thick, if there is room for the floating board, there should be room for the speaker on top
of the decoder, total height : 9.8mm. I gotta check again.
The current keeper II should fit in the chassis hole underneath the cab. Otherwise I'll use the new smaller current keeper III.
It doesn't last as long as his bigger brother, but it should do the job.

Thank's again Kusojiji and J.Albert for your precious help !