First decoder install ever... Intimidating.
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As I said previously I know SSS speakers and their quality, I actually purchased decoders and current keepers from SSS.
My first install was an Atlas U36C and
I found out that, according to SSS, their speaker could not be used on this loco with the Blunami PNP 8 I was installing. The decoder is a bit too long.
The 2nd install was a Kato GP35 and the SSS speaker doesn’t leave much room at the rear light for the diode equiped leds I use. Very tricky to say the least.
Concerning the two Kato GE C44-9W I just finished, there is, so far, no SSS speaker.
So I went for ultra flat phone ones.
They sound great, take very little room, are cheap and fit any model loco.
BUT I'll purchase SSS speakers for my Stewart F7 A and B units, and also for my Fox Valley GP60B.
Kato sells the handrails, but not for ATSF. You could always paint it yellow.
I might check here in europe, just in case... never know.
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Coming back to you zzr.
As I said previously I know SSS speakers and their quality, I actually purchased decoders and current keepers from SSS.
My first install was an Atlas U36C and
I found out that, according to SSS, their speaker could not be used on this loco with the Blunami PNP 8 I was installing. The decoder is a bit too long.
The 2nd install was a Kato GP35 and the SSS speaker doesn’t leave much room at the rear light for the diode equiped leds I use. Very tricky to say the least.
Concerning the two Kato GE C44-9W I just finished, there is, so far, no SSS speaker.
So I went for ultra flat phone ones.
They sound great, take very little room, are cheap and fit any model loco.
BUT I'll purchase SSS speakers for my Stewart F7 A and B units, and also for my Fox Valley GP60B.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
For the light bleed between the headlight and ditchlights, this worked for me.
Black tape - the front one goes from where it comes out to where it meets the cab.
Then I put blue tac on the sides of the ditch light runners since the headlight floods that area. The ditch light runner has one layer of black tape and a little bit hanging out the end. Then I covered it all up with more black tape.
Results.
Black tape - the front one goes from where it comes out to where it meets the cab.
Then I put blue tac on the sides of the ditch light runners since the headlight floods that area. The ditch light runner has one layer of black tape and a little bit hanging out the end. Then I covered it all up with more black tape.
Results.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
That little window is part of the headlight runner so it will send light out. I noticed it when I took the cab apart.
Thank's Kusojiji, very useful trick.
Hello !
I come back to the front and rear handrails problem I faced trying to insert them in place on my two old Katos C44-9Ws.
Thank's again Kusojiji for your advice and explanations on how "rounding up" the square posts ends with a pair of pliers.
As you said, it is a very delicate job, and it didn't work for me. I certainly previously played too much with them trying to find a way,
using superglue, and so on, I just made things worse.
So I decided to superglue (again) small pieces of brass rods I cut with a mini disc. I first cut off the two bottom plastic pins on
the two center posts and glued the brass pieces on the inside faces of the said posts. I left the plastic pins on the two exterior posts,
just "pointed" them with a cutter.
I used a tiny drill to make sure the holes were clean and open to accept the brass rods, and it fitted perfectly. I added tiny drops of
glue to secure my work. Later on, I then inserted the two exterior posts easily. A touch of yellow paint rounded up the job. So far I did that
only for the nose handrails of both locos.
Now, the "look". Eventhough the bottom of the posts is obviously thicker, it doesn't look that bad from normal viewing distance, and I will
live with it.
I come back to the front and rear handrails problem I faced trying to insert them in place on my two old Katos C44-9Ws.
Thank's again Kusojiji for your advice and explanations on how "rounding up" the square posts ends with a pair of pliers.
As you said, it is a very delicate job, and it didn't work for me. I certainly previously played too much with them trying to find a way,
using superglue, and so on, I just made things worse.
So I decided to superglue (again) small pieces of brass rods I cut with a mini disc. I first cut off the two bottom plastic pins on
the two center posts and glued the brass pieces on the inside faces of the said posts. I left the plastic pins on the two exterior posts,
just "pointed" them with a cutter.
I used a tiny drill to make sure the holes were clean and open to accept the brass rods, and it fitted perfectly. I added tiny drops of
glue to secure my work. Later on, I then inserted the two exterior posts easily. A touch of yellow paint rounded up the job. So far I did that
only for the nose handrails of both locos.
Now, the "look". Eventhough the bottom of the posts is obviously thicker, it doesn't look that bad from normal viewing distance, and I will
live with it.
Attachments
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Kato sells the handrails, but not for ATSF. You could always paint it yellow.
Thank's for the link Kusojiji, but the shipping costs plus the taxes and exchange fees are outrageous for such a small order.
Kato sells the handrails, but not for ATSF. You could always paint it yellow.
I might check here in europe, just in case... never know.
Hello everybody.
A couple weeks ago one of my Kato ATSF GE Dash 9-44 CW, Nr 609 began emitting strange sounds, then the volume reduced progressively and finally disappeared !
Suspecting a speaker failure or a connection problem, I opened the shell for inspection.
I unsoldered and removed the speaker, then checked all wires for possible shorts.
I could not find anything but the decoder tabs are so close from each other, it doesn't take much to create trouble. And also I HATE SOLDERING, that doesn’t help either.
I sent a message to Soundtraxx and the answer was that I certainly killed the decoder amplifier. Probably a contact between a speaker wire and something else. Or the volume too high.
Since I set the volumes quite low, I would bet for a hidden contact.
I decided to put the shell back on and forget the now useless speaker, GE 609 found its place in a lashup beside sound equiped companions.
Two days ago I discovered in a box that I had another new identical decoder loaded with GE sounds, bingo !
I unsoldered the 609 decoder and installed the new one plus the speaker. I again adjusted all sounds, volumes and reverbs plus the DDE test run and all is back to normal.
Since I plan to equip a pair of Stewart F7 A and B units, they need the same PNP8 decoders, so I'll use the now silent decoder for the B unit, and use another PNP8 loaded with EMD sounds for the A unit.
That "sounds" good to me !
A couple weeks ago one of my Kato ATSF GE Dash 9-44 CW, Nr 609 began emitting strange sounds, then the volume reduced progressively and finally disappeared !
Suspecting a speaker failure or a connection problem, I opened the shell for inspection.
I unsoldered and removed the speaker, then checked all wires for possible shorts.
I could not find anything but the decoder tabs are so close from each other, it doesn't take much to create trouble. And also I HATE SOLDERING, that doesn’t help either.
I sent a message to Soundtraxx and the answer was that I certainly killed the decoder amplifier. Probably a contact between a speaker wire and something else. Or the volume too high.
Since I set the volumes quite low, I would bet for a hidden contact.
I decided to put the shell back on and forget the now useless speaker, GE 609 found its place in a lashup beside sound equiped companions.
Two days ago I discovered in a box that I had another new identical decoder loaded with GE sounds, bingo !
I unsoldered the 609 decoder and installed the new one plus the speaker. I again adjusted all sounds, volumes and reverbs plus the DDE test run and all is back to normal.
Since I plan to equip a pair of Stewart F7 A and B units, they need the same PNP8 decoders, so I'll use the now silent decoder for the B unit, and use another PNP8 loaded with EMD sounds for the A unit.
That "sounds" good to me !
Well, I didn't totally loose the decoder, but I lost the sounds which is annoying enough. I didn't find the issue yet, after removing the speaker, the loco performed perfectly, including lights and alternatly flashing ditch lights when activating the long horn.
When installing the new decoder I paid much attention to the speaker soldering and how its wires were positioned.
First time I faced this issue, it's definitely annoying, but, at least, I didn't fry the decoder, and I can reuse it without sound in that Stewart FB unit.
I sure better be careful in next installs, frying a decoder is costly and one of my nightmare.
I've been quite lucky SO FAR !
When installing the new decoder I paid much attention to the speaker soldering and how its wires were positioned.
First time I faced this issue, it's definitely annoying, but, at least, I didn't fry the decoder, and I can reuse it without sound in that Stewart FB unit.
I sure better be careful in next installs, frying a decoder is costly and one of my nightmare.
I've been quite lucky SO FAR !
I understand your reaction. I also have the added problem of being in Europe, I get my equipment from the USA, so sending back items is costly. On top of that I would have to pay again customs clearances and maybe more, to them it's just another parcel arriving from the USA.
I know a couple dealers in Germany or Switzerland, but the choice is limited and VERY expensive.
Even with international postage, customs and local taxes, it's still cheaper from USA.
When I previously wrote "alternately flashing ditch lights when activating the long horn", I meant touching the horn "button" since the loco had no more speaker hence no sound.
I know a couple dealers in Germany or Switzerland, but the choice is limited and VERY expensive.
Even with international postage, customs and local taxes, it's still cheaper from USA.
When I previously wrote "alternately flashing ditch lights when activating the long horn", I meant touching the horn "button" since the loco had no more speaker hence no sound.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Yeah, the import fees can be a pain. When I send models back to the UK for repair, I mark the package as returned goods. One decoder company sent me a package of 10 decoders and marked them as engineering samples. For other packages, iIt seems that I get charged customs whenever they feel like it.
Exactly, it's all up to the custom person and his or her mood of the day.
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