DC operators

[spever]

Sp 1920-30

I retired two years ago and got back into the hobby after a 35 year hiatus. Now I'm building an HO layout (14X16) with 11 steam engines with a large collection of rolling stock that are suited for the 1920's -30's. I have found DC to be cheaper to run and MRC power packs readily available at auction web sites.

I have found the PECO insulate turnouts work great because you can control current flow by the direction of the turnout. Since this is basically an oval shaped layout with a minimum 40" radius to handle my lengthy heavyweight passenger cars DC works great.

The old dog doesn't want to learn new tricks and prefers to stay on the porch.

Southern Pacific Los Angeles/Mojave Division

 

[montanan]

I retired two years ago and got back into the hobby after a 35 year hiatus. Now I'm building an HO layout (14X16) with 11 steam engines with a large collection of rolling stock that are suited for the 1920's -30's. I have found DC to be cheaper to run and MRC power packs readily available at auction web sites.

I have found the PECO insulate turnouts work great because you can control current flow by the direction of the turnout. Since this is basically an oval shaped layout with a minimum 40" radius to handle my lengthy heavyweight passenger cars DC works great.

The old dog doesn't want to learn new tricks and prefers to stay on the porch.

Southern Pacific Los Angeles/Mojave Division

I think I am in total agreement with you on the expense. I have somewhere over 30 locomotives, already painted and the cost of changing over for me would be out of the question, plus most likely having to rewire my layout would be necessary because most of it is hand laid rail which was done over ten years ago. I am perfectly happy with my DC layout.

 

[skillman]

I'm afraid that us "old" guys who are used to DC will probably stay with it and the younger modelers who get into it with DCC will probably gravitate to it. As fast as technology is advancing I suspect that what is now current will probably be obsolete before long. I'm too old to start changing everything I have over to DCC or start learning a new control system. I'm just in this to "model".

Steve

 

[Cjcrescent]

I think I am in total agreement with you on the expense. I have somewhere over 30 locomotives, already painted and the cost of changing over for me would be out of the question, plus most likely having to rewire my layout would be necessary because most of it is hand laid rail which was done over ten years ago. I am perfectly happy with my DC layout.

Actually the cost of conversion isn't something that can or should be accomplished overnight. Since you're running steam, like I am pretty much, you don't need anything higher than 2 function decoders, except for any you want sound in. High quality 2 function decoders are around $20 bucks apiece, any cheaper if you shop around. I still have several engines to convert, but there isn't much hurry. I also have to strip, re-paint and decal these several locos.

As for having to rewire, if you've followed the rules for properly wiring a DC layout, with proper gaps, etc, you don't have to rewire anything except insert a reversing unit on the reversing loops.

My track is handlain as well. Again if you've wired it by the proper DC rules, ie gaps in frog rails, no feeders behind turnouts without gaps to prevent shorts, etc, there's nothing to rewire. I haven't done anything to do any special wiring on mine at all. It functions beautifully!

Now, I'm not trying to get you to change, I just want to let you know that wiring an older layout for DCC isn't composed of any special tricks that have to be done to "re-wire" it for DCC. It's an incorrect "assumption" that many people have.

 

[montanan]

My background is in electronics an I have no problem installing decoders. I have friends from out of state that are electronic dummies and I have converted numerous locomotives over the years. Theirs, like mine are not DCC ready. One friend sent me a compete DCC control system so I could get some of his equipment converted and out of curiosity I did try to hook it up to my DC layout and there were some issues when I tried to use DCC. I never had a problem at all with DC. It has been working flawlessly for years. That's why I think that if I were to switch, there would have to be some electrical work done. I ended up taking a couple of pieces of flex track and mounting them on a board so I could get his units working properly. The only problem I had with the conversions was trying to get everything crammed into some of his locomotives that were small. His steam was easy with the tender being able to hold everything including a speaker for sound, but some of the smaller diesels were a challenge. I had looked into DCC more when I was starting to do the conversions for friends and after talking with them and DCC dealers I decided to stick with pure DC. Not only would I need a controller, but a booster. Then decoders for numerous locomotives. I have found that you get what you pay for and if I were to convert, I wouldn't get a basic, bargain basement unit but buy a unit that wouldn't have to be upgraded somewhere down the line. This was quite a few years back, and I imagine the prices have come down some, but it would still be quite a hefty investment in not only monet, but time. I If I had a number of people operating on my home layout, there could be a slim chance, but being that I am basically a lone operator, I think I could use the time and money for the DCC change over a use it to better my current layout. I do have ONE steam locomotive that I have converted to DCC with sound (quamtum sound I think) that I will take with me on trips if I know that I'll be visiting friends, or club layouts that are DCC controlled. This locomotive is a brass Z-5 Yellowstone (NP) which I custom painted years ago. This locomotive even though it is NP would never show up on my little branch line.
I am perfectly happy with my DC.

 

[Cjcrescent]

Montanan, like I said, I wasn't trying to convert you. I had converted 7 or 8 layouts here over from DC to DCC. The only problems I've had with doing this was mostly trying to find out where the reverse loops were so I could connect an auto reverser. That was mostly with the older "spaghetti bowl" type of layouts where the owner didn't really remember where the ends of the reversing loops even were. I got this comment a lot, "I just remember that when the train goes by this structure, I have to throw the reversing switch".

Continue on with the DC, and enjoy, as that is what the hobby is all about. Remember, there is no correct way to model railroad except the way that pleases YOU!

 

[montanan]

Montanan, like I said, I wasn't trying to convert you. I had converted 7 or 8 layouts here over from DC to DCC. The only problems I've had with doing this was mostly trying to find out where the reverse loops were so I could connect an auto reverser. That was mostly with the older "spaghetti bowl" type of layouts where the owner didn't really remember where the ends of the reversing loops even were. I got this comment a lot, "I just remember that when the train goes by this structure, I have to throw the reversing switch".

Continue on with the DC, and enjoy, as that is what the hobby is all about. Remember, there is no correct way to model railroad except the way that pleases YOU!

I didn't think you were trying to convert me. To each their own. I know what you are talking about with older layouts. I helped a club a few years back while visiting friends and ran across the same problem. It was a compete nightmare. I got conned into helping with the change over to DCC against my better judgement. We ended up getting almost the entire membershipp together of two days and I ended up completely rewiring the entire layout. The layout had been built over 30 years ago and there were so many changes done over the years, and wiring spliced into witing, that a complete rewiring was the easiest way out. This time I clearly labled absolutely EVERYTHING so anybody could figure it out. There was such a birdsnest of wire under the layout that every was laughing at how bad it was. We stripped everything out and was able to reuse all of what was removed, and ended up with some left over. Hope not to go through that ever again. My layout is rather simple. It is a point to point, with a couple of passing sidings, with a hidden yard allowing continuous running. The main line only passes through the layout and scenery once. No reversing loops. In the towns along the mainline there are numerous customers to keep someone really busy switching. For a single operator it can kep you pretty busy. I do on rare occasions have people over, and three to four can be kept busy if need be. I have a yard at each end, and a connection to other railroads at each end, but for the most part, it's only me operating. I all works well on DC. Rememer the old saying Keep It Simple, Stupid. The old KISS theory.

 

[railfan]

Fearing complex wiring issues with switches I was happy to see I had no problems or issues at all when I added four turnouts to connect my inner and outer oval loops. No additional wiring at all was needed....and the switches themselves supplied the power to the inner loop. That was an awesome revelation for me. Having just read up on what a reverse loop is....and seeing them on google images.....I don't see why I can't avoid those entirely by just being aware of them and not creating any. I will surely add feeders someday.....but it's pretty decent how you can get started and have a nice little layout with switches using only a single pair of wires going from powerpack to terminal track. I'm using DC.

Mike

 

[High Speed Kurt]

I just found two Control master 20's on the yahoo yard sale for 60 bucks each, I couldnt be happier!

I have the non memory walkaround for my yard as well. Now I just need to finish sheetrock mud, put the lights back up, install the fan, finish wiring the outlets up, do the trim, paint and IM READY TO BUILD THE LAYOUT!

Kurt