Building the Pinnacle Creek Mining & Timber Co. RR

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Thanks Chris, I used the Woodland Scenics plaster cast portal that was on the last layout as a guide. I simply cut the sticks and glued 'em together. I like to stain first because glue overflow will make the stain not work. Regardless of your scale this is not that hard of a build. It is fun too. Jim :)
I think it looks great Jim.
Mike
 
Thanks Mike.

As many of you know because of the depth of my layouts I generally build back to front. This method is not for the faint hearted but does yield good results from time to time! And, here is a first photo. Jim:)

13-12-10_Progress_zps8078eecf.jpg
Photo not found at this time. photobucket??
 
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Thanks Mike.

As many of you know because of the depth of my layouts I generally build back to front. This method is not for the faint hearted but does yield good results from time to time! And, here is a first photo. Jim:)

13-12-10_Progress_zps8078eecf.jpg

The Master is back !!!!!!!!

Mike
 


As the kids say... O... M... G...

I knew you did good work, Jim. But that doesn't even begin to capture it. I haven't mentioned this before, but I think your decision to build a layout that would run either On30 or HO is a really cool idea.
 
Jim, you might have explained the back to front method in previous threads, but is it because of the bending over the front to reach the back, this method reduces the damage to scenery if there was scenery in the front. Or is this just part of the brilliant strategy of a mad man and his creative genius? - Chris
 
Jim, you might have explained the back to front method in previous threads, but is it because of the bending over the front to reach the back, this method reduces the damage to scenery if there was scenery in the front. Or is this just part of the brilliant strategy of a mad man and his creative genius? - Chris

Jim's part Vulcan, so building that way is only logical.
 
Mike, I'm blushing.

Erik, I like the HO and On30 ideas as well. It may take me awhile to afford any O buildings though.

Chris, YES!

RR, I don't know who made it, but I got it on epay a couple of months ago.

toot, Beam me up!

Thanks all, Jim :o
 


It was mentioned about building 'back to front.' Remember the trees painted on the backdrop earlier? Now see what we have. First you see most of the dorky looking trees I painted are covered up. They are there, but are not the focal point of the scene. They just give an idea of trees in the distance.

IMG_5859.JPG

Also we see that we don't see the divide between the rock cliff and the backdrop. Good modeling requires the gap or joint of the plaster cloth and back drop be completely covered up. Super Trees bushes do the job nicely. The distance from the track to the backdrop is so small that the cliff area is difficult to pull off, but I think this came out well. Sharp viewers will notice the front hill and tree area is more sparse and is already showing the transition to a drier climate region even though all this modeling takes place in about 1 foot.

IMG_5860.JPG

As with the real outdoors. Don't scrimp on adding scenery effects. Especially narrow area next to the backboard. Jim
 
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It was mentioned about building 'back to front.' Remember the trees painted on the backdrop earlier? Now see what we have. First you see most of the dorky looking trees I painted are covered up. They are there, but are not the focal point of the scene. They just give an idea of trees in the distance.

IMG_5859_zps31f17906.jpg


Also we see that we don't see the divide between the rock cliff and the backdrop. Good modeling requires the gap or joint of the plaster cloth and back drop be completely covered up. Super Trees bushes do the job nicely. The distance from the track to the backdrop is so small that the cliff area is difficult to pull off, but I think this came out well. Sharp viewers will notice the front hill and tree area is more sparse and is already showing the transition to a drier climate region even though all this modeling takes place in about 1 foot.

IMG_5860_zps1ddfae55.jpg


As with the real outdoors. Don't scrimp on adding scenery effects. Especially narrow area next to the backboard. Jim
That little area looks Great Jim and it is somewhat easier when you have trees rocks and other stuff on hand already.

Mike
 
Here is a problem pretty common in modeling our railroads. In the photo you see some steep edges of scenery then a flat section to this little drainage ditch. In real life terrain probably would not be this way. I needed to fill in this section so that the land naturally sloped down into the ditch.

IMG_5864.JPG

In this second photo you see one cure of the problem. I filled in the area with Woodland Scenics Foam. You simply spread it on, contour it, and let it dry over night. I've also added WS Earth color on top of the foam to get rid of the white color.

IMG_5865.JPG

I let this all dry and then spray glue it and add the first coat of ground coverings. Now I think the scene will be more believable. Another cheap way to fill this section in would be some rolled newspaper covered with plaster cloth. This method is not always convenient so I use the foam putty this time. Jim
 
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Jim, The very small putty knife marks that come with applying just about anything, do you use sandpaper to smooth them out, or just let the ground cover do the work of blending in?
 
Silverton, In this case I'm just letting the ground covers cover the marks up. I have sanded them before but I think in this scene the rougher the better to simulate water drainage off the hill. Jim
 
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Stoker, Thanks a million! This is so cool! It is in the right area and geology will be the same. I've got to get there if I can. Fun to find out I'm as smart as I think I am! Jim :rolleyes:
 






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