Wiring undertable switches....how to question


N

Necrosaro420

Member
Heya, I am new to the hobby. What is the best way to wire an undertable switch? Where does it get its power? I have seen terminal connectors, do they get their power from these? I have the EZ Command Bachmann DCC controller if that matters. Also could these switches be controlled by the Bachmann controller? Thanks!
 
If you're just getting started, you would do well to get yourself Kalmbach's "How to Wire Your Model Railroad". It'll guide you through the somewhat complicated (to a beginner) jungle of correctly wiring your layout. Newer editions should cover DCC wiring as well. It's a good buy, and can save you many hair-pulling sessions....
 
I'm glad I went modular. Wiring is pretty simple when one does it 4' at a time. Gets monotonous, but I'm not losing my hair because of the headaches. All wire SHOULD be color coded when you install. Makes life MUCH simpler in the future. Just take my word for it.

Bob
 
The color code part is a MUST...As I found out about half-way through my wiring...:confused:
Also, check your work after EVERY connection you make, if it works, go on to the next one. If it doesn't, you know where you screwed up. Much easier to fix than having to pin down a problem after a bunch of connections have been made....
 
With my modular layout I have mini-plugs at each end of every module(plug and play, plug and play), again color coded(don't want to hook up 110v to the rails, do we?). Pull a module, replace it, match the colored plugs and we're running on a different layout......... Well, sort of.

You should have "feeders" every 4-6 feet IMO to keep the trains rolling. Don't expect rail connectors to feed the next rail if using Flex-Track. And each of my switches are wired, all 62 of 'em. And I've placed "flags", little tape ID/circuit numbers/markers, purchased at an electrical supply house, on every wire. Make sure you solder the "feeders" to the outside of the rail!!!!

Bob
 
What below-table machine are you using? Some machines are momentary and others are constant voltage.
A DCC buss and a 12VDC buss are a good idea.

All of my Tortoise switch machines are powered off the 12vdc buss through DPDT switches on the control panels. I prefer Control Panels rather than trying to throw a turnout by the DCC controler. I'm doing well to get the train around the tracks with the throttle - to remember to throw a turnout with the throttle controls would get me really confused :eek:
 
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I use Circuitron Tortoise switches on the main and secondary(locals) and primarily Atlas Snap switches in the yards. I need faster switches in the yard is the reason for the use of different switches. The tortoise switches are DCC while the snap switches use momentary SPDT for activation. I found such an arrangement to work best for me.

I love working the yard(s), more than running the main or locals. There are three yards with one being the main yard and two smaller switching yards(VERY MUCH SMALLER!!!). But, keeping all of the switches properly lined can get confusing, even with the lights on the control panel(Red=Open, Green=closed).

I have a control panel as the layout started 12-13 years ago to be DC and not DCC. It does have (6)power districts, though not used, all switches are in the 'ON' position for use with DCC. I switched horses in the middle of the stream, and haven't been a bit sorry I did. That is, it did cost a small ransom to convert everything to DCC in the beginning. But, prices of decoders have dropped drastically since. Now, I'm changing up again and converting to Tsunami's, albeit ever so slowly. Now, I do hope that this is the last change I'll make.

My next improvement will be to add occupancy detectors and wire in the "target lights". I'll get around to that project one of these days(the lights are already in place). I also hope to add computerization to the layout. Not to run the layout, but to monitor it and broadcast status to a large, say 46", monitor mounted to the wall. One of these days.............

Bob
 
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