i am working on building an older industry model and the roof and exterior walls are made of corrugated tin i would prefer to build all of my industries from tine as i will be building some masive buildings and this stuff seems to be reallly easy for me to work with. i have been able to find corrugated copper but it is expensive and is only available in small sheets i am looking for decent sized sheets like sheet of paper sized prefferably and i am looking for it in tin and i want to be able to order a decent amound of materials to makes plenty of buildings. does anyone know where i can et what i am looking for in tin that i can solder together thanks
where can i get corrugated tin in ho scale
- Thread starter Lab Rat
- Start date
Railphotog
Railroad Photographer
Check out Walthers website http://www.walthers.com/ do a search on "corrugated aluminum", there are several listings to choose from. This material has been used to represent corrugated tin/metal siding and roofing for quite some time now; I don't think I've actually seen tin siding. Perhaps in older out of production Suydam kits. The material is very fine, I doubt if it could actually be made of tin. The way models are built with this material is to make the basic stucture out of heavy cardboard (or wood), and glue the aluminum on.
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sledgehammer
Member
Evergreen Styrene produces and sells "corrugated" sheets...I think there's two or three sheets to a package...it was quite great for me in use for a kitbashed grain elevator.
Steamfreak
CEO of the LCP
This is a Suydam kit I recently finished. Not soldered...I used 5 min epoxy since my soldering skills leave something to be desired....
Since the building is "wide open" I'll be putting in an interior as well.
I too am looking for sheet material as I plan to build a copper smelter at some point...
Since the building is "wide open" I'll be putting in an interior as well.
I too am looking for sheet material as I plan to build a copper smelter at some point...
i will post pics of my building tomorrow hoppfully mine is a work in progress i dont have my roof done and i dont plan on finishing it until i construct and paint an interior. i am going to try and put detailed interiors in all the buildings where you can see the inside. great work on ur structure is it a custom work or did it spawn from a kit
railBuilderDhd
Active Member
I made these doors of this building out of heave Duty Aluminum Foil. I rubbed the foil over some styrene sheet made to look like corrugated metal.
The doors here don't look great because it's aluminum foil without anything on it like dulecote.
Dave
The doors here don't look great because it's aluminum foil without anything on it like dulecote.
Dave
Steamfreak
CEO of the LCP
It's from a Suydam kit I bought on the evil Bay....The only non-kit parts are the wooden window frames. The kit supplied some in metal, but they were like propellers...No way was I going to put those on....
blownoutcylinder
Active Member
That's what I did with some---found that foil and did a rubbing from a styrene sheet that looked corrugated.
There is another way around this too that might work. Some scrapbooking supply shops, or even dollar stores that have this stuff in them, sometimes have a tinfoil appearing corrugated cardstock that I used for siding for an HO scale elevator...
eTraxx
Member
I was Google'ing this and found a website called Mechanical Metals, Inc. They have profiles of Corrugated Metal Roofing & Siding Material. The profiles show measurements of each style - depth/width of the corrugations. Pretty sweet as it would allow you to find a substrate to rub the foil over that would match.
Corrugated metal sheets runs in various gauges but for all intents and purposes about 1/32". In HO this scales to .0004" .. which is interesting since Household Aluminum Foil is approximately .0005" thick.
Here's an example of one of the diagrams I linked to above called Type "B" Wide Rib (Industry standard for industry metal roofing)
Corrugated metal sheets runs in various gauges but for all intents and purposes about 1/32". In HO this scales to .0004" .. which is interesting since Household Aluminum Foil is approximately .0005" thick.
Here's an example of one of the diagrams I linked to above called Type "B" Wide Rib (Industry standard for industry metal roofing)
i hate to burst you guys buble but aluminum foil does not solder tin foil probably will but i am looking to solder my entire building together like i did with my current model but i do like the rub method for roll up doors. the tin i am working with actually has real rust spots on it cause it is so old but i put them on the inside of the building. i will try to get pic up at some point today
ChevelleSSguy
Member
How about trying it this way? Uses the cake tin metal.
http://public.fotki.com/DaveInTheHat/how-i-make-stuff/corregated-metal/
http://public.fotki.com/DaveInTheHat/how-i-make-stuff/corregated-metal/
railBuilderDhd
Active Member
What is the tool and can you get it in different sizes?
Dave
Dave
i really like that tool i want one for ho scale . if they made them in ho scale i think at least half of modelrailroaders would buy one i know i would.
ok here is A picture i had to take it with my phone providing it works
i have the building sitting on top of the floor for behind the office. right ouside the office in the work area the floor is higher so there is a set of stairs going up i put paneling in next to the stairs even though no one will EVER see it. i am also planning on putting in a brass railing and gaurd rails at the top of the steps. the floor isnt dark enough yet but i will weather it later. i am still trying to figure out what industry i want to put in. the original name for it as deemed by the model company was "day and night water heater co". and there was no interior details other then a floor to be made from cardstock that was included. i didnt like this idea so i used extra styrene from a wodland scenics structure kit for a layout to put the floor in as you can see i am laying wood planks down at the floors surface i put a layer of clear polyurathane on all the wood pieces to help glue adhere to them.
the white square in the corner is the raised floor for the washroom i am planning on putting the wooden floor in there also but with a thinner material. the reason i am detailing the interior is because it is sort of a habbit since my last building, it loks nicer this way, and a guy from another thread built a fully detailed machine shop in O-scale and it has inspired me to prove that it can be done in HO also but i am not building a machine shop.
you can see the building just enought to see the type of corrugated material i am looking for
ok here is A picture i had to take it with my phone providing it works
i have the building sitting on top of the floor for behind the office. right ouside the office in the work area the floor is higher so there is a set of stairs going up i put paneling in next to the stairs even though no one will EVER see it. i am also planning on putting in a brass railing and gaurd rails at the top of the steps. the floor isnt dark enough yet but i will weather it later. i am still trying to figure out what industry i want to put in. the original name for it as deemed by the model company was "day and night water heater co". and there was no interior details other then a floor to be made from cardstock that was included. i didnt like this idea so i used extra styrene from a wodland scenics structure kit for a layout to put the floor in as you can see i am laying wood planks down at the floors surface i put a layer of clear polyurathane on all the wood pieces to help glue adhere to them.
the white square in the corner is the raised floor for the washroom i am planning on putting the wooden floor in there also but with a thinner material. the reason i am detailing the interior is because it is sort of a habbit since my last building, it loks nicer this way, and a guy from another thread built a fully detailed machine shop in O-scale and it has inspired me to prove that it can be done in HO also but i am not building a machine shop.
you can see the building just enought to see the type of corrugated material i am looking for
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ChevelleSSguy
Member
The caption under the first picture says its a paint tube wringer made by Alexander.
railBuilderDhd
Active Member
Thanks, I guess I wasn't looking past the tool itself to even read the caption.
Dave
Dave
ChevelleSSguy
Member
I even googled it and couldnt find anything. Doesnt appear to show it on thier website.
Trussrod
Well-Known Member
Hi Ed and others,
This is an interesting topic as we would all like to be abel to make a fair amount of corrigated siding/roofing for ourselves for various building purposes and it shouild be fairly easy to do.
A patern maker friend made a two piece brass mold so that heavy Aluminum foil could be sandwiched betweem the two to form the corrigations but that was for 'O' scale and I'm in HO.
So Ok, here's a simple way to make your own corrigation press halves.
> >
The simplest method is to buy a sheet of preformed styrene from Evergreen Hill and cut two sections that are the scale size of the actual siding sheets but remember one will be a slight bit wider than the otrher to allow for the meshing of the two and attaching these to some other stiff backing so they can easily be squeezed together to form your cut sheets for you.
I've noticed that the foil pans often used in market bakery sections seems just right to make siding material from as it stiff enough to hold it shape very well but I've never measured it's thickness.
> >
Here are two other ways to also make molding block patterns;
The material you use is your choice but I would suggest some fairly stury wood like solid old Fir 2x4 sections cut in half or even a 2x2 section cut to form two halves, or you could basically use a couple of solid 1x4 boards or possibly some Plastic blocks.
1 st. You'll need a drill press of one type or another. Should you be lucky enough to have a mill your problem is solved. You'll also need some type of adjustable fence preferably with measurements on the fence table to make the adjustments easier and more precise each time you have to reposition the block for the next grove.
2 nd. For my era I'm using the original type of corrigated siding with the alternating rounded wave patern to it, fairly simple to cut some molding blocks. Each half should be half of the overall thickness of the wave patern.
3 rd. You'll also need a way to set up a fence type of guide so you can slide the material under a ball type of router to form the valleys and hills and then adjuist it back the required amount so the next pass can be made parellel to the others and at the proper spacing.
A Vernerier Calperier is very handy to use to determine the width of the spacing from some other corrigated material you might have.
Cut/mill both haves at the same time, so that when your finished one will fit/mesh into the other too compress the foil between the milled forms you just made.
> >
*4 th. I just thought of another way to accomplish the same thing without any of the above. Get yourself a couple of styrene blocks and some styrene rods the desired thichkness and make your self a form to go around the outside of blocks and high enough to allow the second block to be placed on top of the first with the rods sandwiched in between them so the fence form is high enough to keep them both aligned and square.
*4b. Start the aluminum foil cut to the height of the form and place one end into the form and up one edge a bit and place one of the rods on top of the foil along that edge, then while holding the foil in the up position place another rod against the foil and allow the foil to lay over the top of the second rod and then place a third rod and so on till you get the width filled.
*4c. Now you'll have some of the rods exposed and some barried beneath the foil. Put some styrene glue on the exposed rods and place the second styrene block on top of them till set up.
Turn over with the fence still around the blocks and put styrene glue on the now exposed rods and put the block back on them till set up.
Now you have your two mating halves which will form your aluminum sheeting for you. Now you won't need the fence so it might work out best to start fom one side and gently fold the other side down onto the lower block to allow the foil to adjust as it's being pulled by the bending process.
One of these methods should help you to make all the corrigated metal siding you want.
So now I guess I best get bussy making my own Corr Siding press.
This is an interesting topic as we would all like to be abel to make a fair amount of corrigated siding/roofing for ourselves for various building purposes and it shouild be fairly easy to do.
A patern maker friend made a two piece brass mold so that heavy Aluminum foil could be sandwiched betweem the two to form the corrigations but that was for 'O' scale and I'm in HO.
So Ok, here's a simple way to make your own corrigation press halves.
> >
The simplest method is to buy a sheet of preformed styrene from Evergreen Hill and cut two sections that are the scale size of the actual siding sheets but remember one will be a slight bit wider than the otrher to allow for the meshing of the two and attaching these to some other stiff backing so they can easily be squeezed together to form your cut sheets for you.
I've noticed that the foil pans often used in market bakery sections seems just right to make siding material from as it stiff enough to hold it shape very well but I've never measured it's thickness.
> >
Here are two other ways to also make molding block patterns;
The material you use is your choice but I would suggest some fairly stury wood like solid old Fir 2x4 sections cut in half or even a 2x2 section cut to form two halves, or you could basically use a couple of solid 1x4 boards or possibly some Plastic blocks.
1 st. You'll need a drill press of one type or another. Should you be lucky enough to have a mill your problem is solved. You'll also need some type of adjustable fence preferably with measurements on the fence table to make the adjustments easier and more precise each time you have to reposition the block for the next grove.
2 nd. For my era I'm using the original type of corrigated siding with the alternating rounded wave patern to it, fairly simple to cut some molding blocks. Each half should be half of the overall thickness of the wave patern.
3 rd. You'll also need a way to set up a fence type of guide so you can slide the material under a ball type of router to form the valleys and hills and then adjuist it back the required amount so the next pass can be made parellel to the others and at the proper spacing.
A Vernerier Calperier is very handy to use to determine the width of the spacing from some other corrigated material you might have.
Cut/mill both haves at the same time, so that when your finished one will fit/mesh into the other too compress the foil between the milled forms you just made.
> >
*4 th. I just thought of another way to accomplish the same thing without any of the above. Get yourself a couple of styrene blocks and some styrene rods the desired thichkness and make your self a form to go around the outside of blocks and high enough to allow the second block to be placed on top of the first with the rods sandwiched in between them so the fence form is high enough to keep them both aligned and square.
*4b. Start the aluminum foil cut to the height of the form and place one end into the form and up one edge a bit and place one of the rods on top of the foil along that edge, then while holding the foil in the up position place another rod against the foil and allow the foil to lay over the top of the second rod and then place a third rod and so on till you get the width filled.
*4c. Now you'll have some of the rods exposed and some barried beneath the foil. Put some styrene glue on the exposed rods and place the second styrene block on top of them till set up.
Turn over with the fence still around the blocks and put styrene glue on the now exposed rods and put the block back on them till set up.
Now you have your two mating halves which will form your aluminum sheeting for you. Now you won't need the fence so it might work out best to start fom one side and gently fold the other side down onto the lower block to allow the foil to adjust as it's being pulled by the bending process.
One of these methods should help you to make all the corrigated metal siding you want.
So now I guess I best get bussy making my own Corr Siding press.
railBuilderDhd
Active Member
I've tried to make the siding with the styrene as a master and found that it will not work well for anything thicker than heavy aluminum foil. I also made the metal roof that you can see in this post as well as aluminum doors that are make from aluminum foil pressed in styrene. http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16784
I was thinking all along I need to have something like the posting from “Dave In The Hat” used but a finer tooth. I would like to find 2 gears that would mate and would be able to crank the aluminum through.
I used aluminum cooking pans for roof of the scratch building and it's the perfect thickness but it is too thick for styrene. When you press it or rub the aluminum over the styrene it wears down the edges of the styrene or will cut the tops off because the aluminum is sharp. Oh yeah, it can cut fingers too.
If anyone can think of a gear that would created the right size ridges I've got the idea on how to build the machine to run the aluminum through it. I was thinking there may be an auto part from the rear end or transmission that would work.
Dave
I was thinking all along I need to have something like the posting from “Dave In The Hat” used but a finer tooth. I would like to find 2 gears that would mate and would be able to crank the aluminum through.
I used aluminum cooking pans for roof of the scratch building and it's the perfect thickness but it is too thick for styrene. When you press it or rub the aluminum over the styrene it wears down the edges of the styrene or will cut the tops off because the aluminum is sharp. Oh yeah, it can cut fingers too.
If anyone can think of a gear that would created the right size ridges I've got the idea on how to build the machine to run the aluminum through it. I was thinking there may be an auto part from the rear end or transmission that would work.
Dave
ChevelleSSguy
Member
The gears inside a transmission or rearend wont have a fine tooth gear that would work for this. But cars with electronicly controlled climate control, the type that has digital readouts and you push buttons to adjust heat/cold, vent/defrost, etc. These have a system that uses small electric motors and gears inside small assemblys to actuate your blend doors behind the dash to where you want your heat to go, instead of the popular cable and vacuum operated doors.
