When are long couplers not the best?

[MarkVIIIMarc]

I have converted two of my new railcar purchases from standard to long shank couplers. Previously they despised my 18" curves. One was considerably under weight as well but fixing the weight while it did help the long shank couplers were the difference makers.

Besides making my trains longer is there a reason for me to avoid long shank whisker couplers? They seem to trail just fine but maybe on my rotary snowplow they will not shove as well?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[TheGloriousTachikoma]

I have converted two of my new railcar purchases from standard to long shank couplers. Previously they despised my 18" curves. One was considerably under weight as well but fixing the weight while it did help the long shank couplers were the difference makers.

Besides making my trains longer is there a reason for me to avoid long shank whisker couplers? They seem to trail just fine but maybe on my rotary snowplow they will not shove as well?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Under what circumstances do you need long shank couplers? You mention 18" radius curves. My Kato SD38-2, Roundhouse 60' flatcars, and Walthers LPG tankers all couple fine with normal #5s and have plenty of room. Granted, that's on a consistent radius. Kadees will couple just fine on 18" if the cars are both on the curve so that the couplers line up. I only needed long-shank couplers for an Athearn SD40-2 with plows on the front and back. Long-shank couplers will increase the angle at which the knuckles meet, detracting performance.

Now, if you're using long-shank couplers to get around having an evil S-curve...well...

 

[diburning]

What kind of cars are they? I've never had to use long shank couplers on cars even on radii tighter than 18". The only times I use long shank couplers are when I install them into engines where I need the coupler to clear the plow such as Athearn locomotives because the trip pin hitting the plow causes uncouplings (I have too much stuff to go back and cut off every pin. Plus, I actually use them for uncoupling as I have a Rix tool)

 

[MarkVIIIMarc]

Thanks for the info. One is the below pictured Atlas Hooker tankcar. It is very detailed if somewhat dainty. No matter which trucks or kadee 5s or some kadee shelf coupler I installed it rode up the rails on some curves. Two weeks back I installed some long shank whiskers and it stays in place.

The other is a Bachmann 6 axle depressed center missile flatcar. Tried different trucks, different wheel combos, only a little difference. Install some long shanks and presto she minds her own business.

My layout does have some "S" curves but most of the railcars handle them but I did shorten a wellcar so it would ride and look better.

 

[sd24b]

I have converted two of my new railcar purchases from standard to long shank couplers. Previously they despised my 18" curves. One was considerably under weight as well but fixing the weight while it did help the long shank couplers were the difference makers.

Besides making my trains longer is there a reason for me to avoid long shank whisker couplers? They seem to trail just fine but maybe on my rotary snowplow they will not shove as well?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I use the longer shank couplers on cars with extended draft gear (cushioned flat cars, 60 and 89' boxcars) Are you trying to run cars longer than 50' around 18"rad. curves? Some draft gear is too short to support the longer shank coupler. Walther's older 89' flat was and is notorious for that Phil

 

[diburning]

Your problem here is not couplers. The Atlas hooker tank car is an earlier model, which is severely underweight and needs additional weight to track properly.

You said the B word. Every single Bachmann car I've ever had was underweight.

NMRA recommended practice says that you should measure the car in inches, and round up to the nearest inch. Divide that number by two, then add one. This is how heavy the car should be for optimal tracking. If all else fails, weigh your cars and put weights in them until they all weigh 4-5 ounces. When adding weight, put the weight directly over the trucks on the inside of the carbody if possible.

 

[MarkVIIIMarc]

Yeah, my Bachmann missile flatcar needed some weight and I added it a month ago in a semi hidden spot under the missile.

I do not recall adding weight to the Atlas Hooker tank. Regardless Hooker is slightly overweight for 6.5" at 4.7 ounces. Now i do have a coupler height gauge but not a wheel gauge so mayne they are a problem. That is about a 50' car I believe.

Ya know, I have been measuring exactly, multiplying by. 5 and adding one so some of my other railcars may be a tad light. Thanks for the tip.

 

[diburning]

Interesting. My older Atlas tank cars are underweight, especially those clay slurry/kaolin tank cars.

As far as checking wheel gauge, the NMRA standards gauge is a good tool to have.

 

[Iron Horseman]

Besides making my trains longer is there a reason for me to avoid long shank whisker couplers?

Long couplers are not the best when one wants the equipment to look prototypical. Long shank couplers simply do not look all that good. That is just one of those trade offs we have to make in order to allow big trains to run on very sharp curves.