What should I do with this room?


Habbyguy

Habbyguy

Member
I would like to have at least 2 loops, maybe 3 loops(if possible). I am DCC ready with a MRC Command 2000 with some hand-held controllers that I have had for years. But right now I just need to figure the best use of space in my empty room. All ideas are welcome.
The room is 12' 7" X 9' 8", plus closet that is 2' 3" X 4'.
Room.jpg

And I was thinking of something like this.
Benchwork.jpg
 
With that space you could make an awesome N Scale empire.
Lots of room for a good scenery to track ratio, to avoid the spaghetti railroad look.
Also long enough runs for some real prototype length trains.

DCC is the only way to go, far easier on the wiring. I like the MRC controllers, nice big LCD readout so you know what is going on.

As I did on my layout, just do one big loop, have your mainline in the foreground and a semi hidden track near the walls.

The little section behind the door could be the yard area. Keep the opposite end at 36x36 so you do not need the access hole, and make that the second yard.

Along the mainline you have various industrial sidings. Maybe at one point a branch off the mainline going the the rear making a reverse loop so you can easily run in the opposite direction. Reverse loops are easily handled with an automatic DCC module.

Could look amazing.
 
That 36" reach is going to be a stinker for scenery, maintenance or anything. Get John Armstrong's book "Trackplanning for Realistic Operation". Kalmbach has it in print. Remember this: Because you have space does not mean you must fill it. Less is more. You have enough for a nice operable layout in HO or N for sure. Even a nice branch line layout in O will fit in there nicely. You'll have to clean and maintain anything you build, so don't make it hard on yourself
 
Opps my bad, I guess I forgot to say I am going to run HO. If I did not already have 7 engines and 50ish cars, I would do a N scale layout.

Yes there is a window in the middle of the 93 X 36 section.
 
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Bedroom Layout

I saved this idea to give to folks looking to do a bedroom layout. As a boy, I would certainly have loved this...but i was one of two boys so we used the garage :p

(Attachments removed, no permission from article owner stated, Please refrain from uploading copyright material to ModelRailroadforums
Willis
 
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So what should I make the bench work out of? I read about using 1x4's. But after going to some lumber stores I found the wood to be $5.22 per 12' board and the 8' ones are $3.49. Then I saw the 2x3's going for $1.45 per 8'. For price wise I want to go with the 2x3's.
Any thoughts on this?
 
Habbyguy said:
So what should I make the bench work out of? I read about using 1x4's. But after going to some lumber stores I found the wood to be $5.22 per 12' board and the 8' ones are $3.49. Then I saw the 2x3's going for $1.45 per 8'. For price wise I want to go with the 2x3's.
Any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

Use the 1 x 4's. They'll hold more load. Do NOT cheap out on the benchwork. It supports everything else. You wouldn't cheap out on your house's foundation would you?
 
How about the good ol' 2x4? They're the most commonly used size of lumber, and may be cheaper than 1x4's.
 
Most lumberyards have 3 grades of lumber. The grades designations may vary, but they are usually something like standard, better, and select. For your benchwork, you want to go with the top grade. You do not want twisted, bowed, or cupped boards. They will make it nearly impossible to get good trackwork. Make sure the boards are well dried. If anyplace in your area has an indoor lumberyard, go there. Wood that has been stored outside in the elements is not what you want.
I priced lumber for a layout with a 9x2-1/2 foot center section, with a 5x5 foot blob on one end and a 5x7 foot foot blob on the other. It was around $400. But considering all the time and expense that would go into the layout on top of it, I felt it was well worth it to get good lumber.
And don't use nails to build the layout. They will not hold as well as screws will. Use screws to build the individual table modules, then use 1/4" bolts, washers, and nuts to fasten them together.
 
Well, IF you can find some, you could consider using the 1x4s from shipping crates or mattress pallets. They're usually pretty straight and will take screws well. Just tell the manager of the place why you need them and they will most likely let you have as many pallets as you need. You will of course have to take them apart yourself.

The other possibility? Visit construction sites and look for surplus stuff. Again, ask the boss.
 
Thanks for the input guys.
flyboy2610, the lumber stores here only sell top grade 1x4's that are inside. And yes I will screw the sections together. Should I predrill the holes first so the wood does not split?

West Virginia Midland Man, getting wood from pallets are a great idea. Maybe I will have time to find some.
 
If you do go that route, get recent pallets that haven't been outside real long. If they've been rained on or the wood is greyed from age, don't use them. Definitely pre-drill the screw holes with pallet wood. I'd also dip the drywall screws in liquid soap to allow them to slide through the wood.
 
I know it sounds odd, but pallet wood will split if it's not pre-drilled and soaping the dry wall screws will let them pass through the wood a lot easier. Soaping prevents splitting in standard lumber as well. It was a lesson I had to learn after splitting several 1 x 4's in one day on the first M&WV.
 
My dad and I used plywood and 2x2s to build benchwork. The 2x2s hold screws better than plywood, so they go wherever two pieces of plywood meet. We also used 1x4s on the edges and along the bottom, but that was more for looks. It's not the prettiest benchwork but it's reasonably solid and offers loads of storage space underneath. I can get pics if you'd like. It's probably not the best way to do it, but it works. :)
 
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