brickbuilder711
FEC Train 222
Excellent work all!
Weekly Photo Fun 710-7/16
- Thread starter jeffrey-wimberly
- Start date
Selector
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear about physical ailments in a fellow modeller! 
I hope you can correct it all, Dan, and return to full health. You do such fine work.
Here is my contribution for this week...I return to the mighty Allegheny. It has delivered its consist westerly and has returned later in the day for another replenishing cycle under the two towers at Seneca Falls.
-Crandell
I hope you can correct it all, Dan, and return to full health. You do such fine work.Here is my contribution for this week...I return to the mighty Allegheny. It has delivered its consist westerly and has returned later in the day for another replenishing cycle under the two towers at Seneca Falls.
-Crandell
jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
railroad-guy
Member
The "jars" are small oblong beads with the tops being small round beads. All found at Hobby Lobby or Michaels.
For me, time stopped in 1947. That allows steam and the most beautiful diesels ever made, PA's
No EMD, all diesel is early Alco or FM.
Gramps, forgot to comment on your picture. Very nice as usual. As Jon said, how do you manage to get that depth of field? My pictures always look terrible compared to yours.
Matt, I hope you're on the road to recovery. Chest pain is mighty scary as we get older. I see you've managed to make up for lost time though. If you get the time, I'd ove to see a picture of your workbench. I've been trying to re-do mine and would like some ideas. I'm sure your workbench is a little more involved (and organized) than mine.
Dan, you and Matt share a lot in common. Sure nice to have two such accomplished scratchbuilders on the forum. You wouldn't happen to have a pair of NKP Bluebirds, would you? They are my all time favorite PA's. I'd be interested to see what you have for a work bench also.
Jeffrey, the MT Arms has just the right dilapidated look.
Matt, I hope you're on the road to recovery. Chest pain is mighty scary as we get older. I see you've managed to make up for lost time though.
If you get the time, I'd ove to see a picture of your workbench. I've been trying to re-do mine and would like some ideas. I'm sure your workbench is a little more involved (and organized) than mine. Dan, you and Matt share a lot in common. Sure nice to have two such accomplished scratchbuilders on the forum. You wouldn't happen to have a pair of NKP Bluebirds, would you? They are my all time favorite PA's. I'd be interested to see what you have for a work bench also.
Jeffrey, the MT Arms has just the right dilapidated look.
GrampysTrains
Member
Thanks, Jim. Jim and Jon, I use a magic camera.. Just kidding. I'd recommend Railphotog's tutorial as a start. Bob is a real Pro. I'm just a beginner at photography. First, a little background on my lighting, backdrop, colors, etc. My backdrop extends to the ceiling and is blue, darker towards the top, lighter, almost white at the bottom. The ceiling over the layout and inside of the valance is white. I'm trying to reflect as much light on the layout, as possible. Lighting is 2 tube cool white fluorescents. Camera: Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ7. This is about midway between a point and shoot and SLR. The settings I use: Aper. priority, no flash, manual focus, self-timer, highest qual. manual focus assist, white bal. auto, ISO 100, highest picture size, and f8.0. I use a tripod or just sit the camera on the layout, (my preference). My camera has a small joystick for manual focus. I use the joystick to focus on the nearest subject, usually the loco. I think the focus assist on the camera helps get more depth of field. Then, I set the timer and take the photo. Then I upload the photos into Picasa, and see what I got. If they aren't good, I delete them and try again. The secret is experiment with your camera, after reading the manual, and take lots of photos. Whew, maybe that's more info than you asked for. Anyway, hope this helps.
Also, the upgrade chip really made a big improvement in my BLI Hudson.
. Just kidding. I'd recommend Railphotog's tutorial as a start. Bob is a real Pro. I'm just a beginner at photography. First, a little background on my lighting, backdrop, colors, etc. My backdrop extends to the ceiling and is blue, darker towards the top, lighter, almost white at the bottom. The ceiling over the layout and inside of the valance is white. I'm trying to reflect as much light on the layout, as possible. Lighting is 2 tube cool white fluorescents. Camera: Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ7. This is about midway between a point and shoot and SLR. The settings I use: Aper. priority, no flash, manual focus, self-timer, highest qual. manual focus assist, white bal. auto, ISO 100, highest picture size, and f8.0. I use a tripod or just sit the camera on the layout, (my preference). My camera has a small joystick for manual focus. I use the joystick to focus on the nearest subject, usually the loco. I think the focus assist on the camera helps get more depth of field. Then, I set the timer and take the photo. Then I upload the photos into Picasa, and see what I got. If they aren't good, I delete them and try again. The secret is experiment with your camera, after reading the manual, and take lots of photos. Whew, maybe that's more info than you asked for. Anyway, hope this helps. Also, the upgrade chip really made a big improvement in my BLI Hudson.
railroad-guy
Member
I model my own road which keeps the rivet counters away
Both sets will be something like this when I get them painted.
rhoward
S.L.O.&W. Trainman
I am in awe of some of the work presented here this weekend! Wow!
I haven't had a lot of time to work on the layout this week, but I have finally installed the torti and linkage to work the Tomar Lower Quadrant Order Semaphore at Hopewell Junction Station. If I had time on my hands, I would have done a short video of it in action, but you'll just have to imagine.....
Stop:
Go:
I have another model that I did but I really hate the paint job I did on it and I will show it just as soon as I figure out how to repaint the tiny little thing......
I haven't had a lot of time to work on the layout this week, but I have finally installed the torti and linkage to work the Tomar Lower Quadrant Order Semaphore at Hopewell Junction Station. If I had time on my hands, I would have done a short video of it in action, but you'll just have to imagine.....
Stop:
Go:
I have another model that I did but I really hate the paint job I did on it and I will show it just as soon as I figure out how to repaint the tiny little thing......
Crandell, forgot mention your fine pic. Somehow, steam just looks right on your layout, especially big steam. I don't know if I ever mentioned it but I like the slightly uneven look of your yard tracks.
DJ, thanks for giving us some of your hints. I'll give them a try. My camera is OK, just my skills suck. Trying to get the right manual focus point on my Kodak is a real pain though.
Ken, looks like you must have seen a Bluebird by your color scheme. Nice combination of the NKP and Santa Fe.
Ray, I was posting when you put up your pictures. Nice job on that semaphore. I've got the same one but I painted it silver. Now that I've seen it in black, I think I like that color better. One more thing to add to the list.
DJ, thanks for giving us some of your hints. I'll give them a try. My camera is OK, just my skills suck. Trying to get the right manual focus point on my Kodak is a real pain though.
Ken, looks like you must have seen a Bluebird by your color scheme. Nice combination of the NKP and Santa Fe.
Ray, I was posting when you put up your pictures. Nice job on that semaphore. I've got the same one but I painted it silver. Now that I've seen it in black, I think I like that color better. One more thing to add to the list.
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rhoward
S.L.O.&W. Trainman
Back again.....
Repainted the Buckboard and this time I am satisfied with the results. So here is the latest at the farm. Yep another itty bitty tiny Jordan Kit. This one is so small they give you two in the box. From the back of the back wheel to the tip of the hitch in front is less that 2.5 inches. It is less than 3/4 " wide. Contains lots of very brittle tiny parts as well........
and the obligatory close up:
Repainted the Buckboard and this time I am satisfied with the results. So here is the latest at the farm. Yep another itty bitty tiny Jordan Kit. This one is so small they give you two in the box. From the back of the back wheel to the tip of the hitch in front is less that 2.5 inches. It is less than 3/4 " wide. Contains lots of very brittle tiny parts as well........
and the obligatory close up:
rhoward
S.L.O.&W. Trainman
Ray, I was posting when you put up your pictures. Nice job on that semaphore. I've got the same one but I painted it silver. Now that I've seen it in black, I think I like that color better. One more thing to add to the list.
Thanks Jim. I asked several of the "experts" at the museum and a couple that model the NYO&W (the closest to a prototype I have) what color they used back in the early years of the last century (aka: 1925) and black is what they suggested. Most of the photos I have of the NYO&W also suggest that even in Black and white it was most likely black.
Selector
Well-Known Member
Thank-you, Jim. It's funny, but they don't look that 'bad' when I am standing near them, looking over the yard. It only looks like that with the low angle, but the camera don't lie...know what I mean. In some ways I am a little uncomfortable with the amount of weaving, and I think I will take some pains to reduce it by near to half on my next layout.
It is a startling effect, though, and I have seen it in proto photos as I am sure you have.
Ray, I really like the way your sempaphore turned out. I t'ink I'm gonna have to spring for one. Are these from Tomar's site or from Walthers...both?
-Crandell
rhoward
S.L.O.&W. Trainman
Thank you Crandell! This is the one I am using here: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/81-860
I think I got it from Walthers through my LHS.
Jim shot some of the workroom for you.
First up is an 8'x6' space for the plaster molding area, the rubber molds that I have made are in the rolling drawers to the right along with the storage for scenery materials. The shelves above contain kit storage along with some odds and ends of magazines. Past the rolling drawers you can see the start of the magazine racks that I use to store old issues, sorted by year and title. On the left is the rest of the work room.
Next shot shows my main building area which is 8'x16'. On the left side is where I work on most models at the back mat. Tool racks are on the back wall along with long wood storage. On the right is a secondary building area along with my brush painting area. Above both are storage shelving. Note the plans pinned above the main work area, this space was designed so that I would have the plans out of the way but still accessible.
Next shot shows the brush painting area and secondary building area. Paint racks are built from wood from Lowes. Spray painting is done in another area as far away from my main workroom as practical to allow me to turn off the vent while the piece is drying, an important consideration when the air conditioning is on.
Last shot is down the long left hand counter top showing each project laid out in its own area. This counter top is the full 16' length of the space.
First up is an 8'x6' space for the plaster molding area, the rubber molds that I have made are in the rolling drawers to the right along with the storage for scenery materials. The shelves above contain kit storage along with some odds and ends of magazines. Past the rolling drawers you can see the start of the magazine racks that I use to store old issues, sorted by year and title. On the left is the rest of the work room.
Next shot shows my main building area which is 8'x16'. On the left side is where I work on most models at the back mat. Tool racks are on the back wall along with long wood storage. On the right is a secondary building area along with my brush painting area. Above both are storage shelving. Note the plans pinned above the main work area, this space was designed so that I would have the plans out of the way but still accessible.
Next shot shows the brush painting area and secondary building area. Paint racks are built from wood from Lowes. Spray painting is done in another area as far away from my main workroom as practical to allow me to turn off the vent while the piece is drying, an important consideration when the air conditioning is on.
Last shot is down the long left hand counter top showing each project laid out in its own area. This counter top is the full 16' length of the space.
GrampysTrains
Member
Great modeling shown here this week.
Crandell, I commented on those tracks, before, and I still like the "wavy" look. I also like your use of real dirt in your yard. An overall great photo.
Jim, it only took me about 2 yrs. to get my photos to where they are now.
Ray, great job, as usual, on that semaphore and buggy.DJ.
Crandell, I commented on those tracks, before, and I still like the "wavy" look. I also like your use of real dirt in your yard. An overall great photo.
Jim, it only took me about 2 yrs. to get my photos to where they are now.
Ray, great job, as usual, on that semaphore and buggy.DJ.
Jim some details of the storage in the work room.
First up the shelving over part of the left hand counter top. The open top trays on the lower shelf hold stained Midwest stripwood. The rest of the trays hold detail parts from various makers, all in O scale. The next shelf up holds various unsorted (I will get to them one day) small parts and pieces. Top shelf is used to store finished work for the next convention along with some larger parts.
Next up is one of the HO scale detail parts drawers. The dividing slats are small wood pieces from Lowes glued to the drawer bottom.
Next is the Evergreen drawer, dividing slats again.
Last up is one of the trays used to store stained Midwest stripwood, they are sorted by part number since I model in various scales it did not make sense to make HO/S/O sizes.
Hope these were helpful to you, if you would like any more just let me know.
Matt
MD Custom Models
First up the shelving over part of the left hand counter top. The open top trays on the lower shelf hold stained Midwest stripwood. The rest of the trays hold detail parts from various makers, all in O scale. The next shelf up holds various unsorted (I will get to them one day) small parts and pieces. Top shelf is used to store finished work for the next convention along with some larger parts.
Next up is one of the HO scale detail parts drawers. The dividing slats are small wood pieces from Lowes glued to the drawer bottom.
Next is the Evergreen drawer, dividing slats again.
Last up is one of the trays used to store stained Midwest stripwood, they are sorted by part number since I model in various scales it did not make sense to make HO/S/O sizes.
Hope these were helpful to you, if you would like any more just let me know.
Matt
MD Custom Models
railroad-guy
Member
You like wavy? I had wavy going into the first heating season. Maybe more expansion joints
Now on to some work, first pair of shots are of an On3 D&RGW box car that I am building for the layout so it will be converted with On30 trucks along with SLIM&M decals. Piece has had its details upgraded from what the kit contained. Next is a Westerfield M&O Su class box car that I am working on with the intention of listing it on eBay.
Dan: does the "wave" move in front of the train as it runs down the line? Now that would be a neat effect. One of the drawbacks with homosote, great sound proofing but not that good holding spikes without glue.
Some progress photos on structures. First is a O scale C&S Como depot that is being built for the next Narrow Gauge convention. Next up is the S scale vertical shaft mine showing the start of the head frame and the upper part of the shaft. Last is the O scale oil products dealer main building with paint which allows the individual 2' wide pieces of corrugated sheathing to show up.
Some progress photos on structures. First is a O scale C&S Como depot that is being built for the next Narrow Gauge convention. Next up is the S scale vertical shaft mine showing the start of the head frame and the upper part of the shaft. Last is the O scale oil products dealer main building with paint which allows the individual 2' wide pieces of corrugated sheathing to show up.
