Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread


Jaz avalley said:
Rolling stock, not so much any more…
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reference
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bought model obviously used the reference photo too
i found it by accident
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some colour and I want a view through the windows so drew sone ‘distant’ bushes
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I used warhammer paints at the dirty colours work
glue added
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texture added
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not quite on topic, but in the ballpark if you squint hard
in a vw graveyard


added to a safari area the train passesView attachment 181530


…strolls off check over shoulder in case Tom‘s hand appears and slaps me :) ….nope all clear whistles off key…..
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Have we EVER worried about YOU steering off course?

What are you using for texture? What type of glue are u using?
Love the elephants and that motor vehicle is way to clean for your modeling.
 
A surprise arrival!!! A client did not inform me he was drop shipping these to me direct from Scaletrains. The reefers are starting to arrive. Scaletrains ships free if you spend more then $100 and per the packing slip shows these were $153. The cars I ordered should be here this Thursday per the ST email received.
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One is sound equipped and barely rolls. The non sound car rolls with barely a touch. So 1st thing Monday is to get the Sound car rolling. Checking reviews online this evening, many others are experiencing this issue. IMO, Terrible QC!

These will be cleaned and a clear matte finish applied. These are a very bright white car, the matte finish will kill the sheen. The trucks and wheels will also be removed for cleaning and weathering. The couplers will be tossed and replaced. If you check YouTube for videos on reefer cars passing in trains even 5+ years after these cars have been on the rails they are still fairly clean. So some end panel kick up spray and some grime along the bottom frame of the car. But LOTS of graffiti and that’s what these and the others coming will get…

I will show the non sound car as I progress.
 
No no no look carefully my friend, there is dust, REAL dust on the roof grins.

I did this a while ago so ….A CITADEL (Warhammer) paint pot is in the picture typhus and I know I used several greens inc goblin green (laughs to self as I know you won’t have this lol) I love Citadel they have a section called technical that do ‘tricks’ I’ll look anyway paint aside
birch seeds, out on your trees right now free, you can colour soak them or use straight from the tree, crush sone use some
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whole added the vw for clarification then other leaf effects
Wood Green grass is cheap and basic but first layer on top of paint, the finer foam stuff is more expensive and you can rub it between your fingers making it finer and clumpier would look good on abandoned wagons,

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the glue is usually a type I can rub off if I over egg it (shhhh stop laughing)
I blacked the windows for depth, then choice a height for the sky behind and added blue/white/dirt then drew in a few branches maybe paint maybe sharpie
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the rust is from a kit on the vw, it is a chemical process and uses iron filings so real rust
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I often add a dull rust finish
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I am not above using a water effect (glue) and cleaning with real water for best shine before taking a picture
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oooh the deluxe rust
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and having an example a painted alternative trick is finding the colour, I like a dark brown and a orange brown for rust and an oil slick paint for dirt and oil
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a couple of brands for you to investigate, and my often discussed dirty water pot far left, I leave it until the water starts to stink literally because cleaning my brushes in it it makes it perfect for a dull dirty finish
…as more comes to mind I’ll do an update…hope it gives you ideas. :D
 
Ah technical paints and layers also in the range, the liquid green stuff is NOT a colour it is a texture I added hat and shoulder band he became a thunderbird character
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that crellan earth dries cracked! Excellent kit
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the Tamiya one is more powdery but has its own uses
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the oxide turquoise dries ready rusted!
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a couple of aged greens, yellow highlights
 

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Mike asked a question about switching couplers on the STX reefers. There is a lot of plumbing on top of the coupler box
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I used a flat head (tiny) to slip between the coupler box cover and the plumbing and pried VERY VERY gently. It’s a press fit so it does come off the cover but is still attached elsewhere on the car
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One down, 3 more to go, JUST BE GENTLE
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These are the only 2 tools needed
 
One side on 2 cars have graffiti and some tagging. Going slower then I had anticipated but I’m retired, so there’s no rush and if I had not reinjured my knee I’d still be on vacation golfing out west!

I am waiting for approval from the client. Last night he asked for tags on 793311 where originally he did not want any. If this was my car they both would get about 10 tags each, but…
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A light weathering to come for both with 793302 getting some rusting streaks to hopefully match the prototype
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793302 is credited to Donnie Lee and can be located at RailcarPhotos.com


The other side of both cars with be lightly weathered with no graffiti or tags
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Photo credit to Robert Ulberg and can be located at RRpicture archives.net
 
Jaz avalley said:
No no no look carefully my friend, there is dust, REAL dust on the roof grins.

I did this a while ago so ….A CITADEL (Warhammer) paint pot is in the picture typhus and I know I used several greens inc goblin green (laughs to self as I know you won’t have this lol) I love Citadel they have a section called technical that do ‘tricks’ I’ll look anyway paint aside
birch seeds, out on your trees right now free, you can colour soak them or use straight from the tree, crush sone use some
View attachment 181556
whole added the vw for clarification then other leaf effects
Wood Green grass is cheap and basic but first layer on top of paint, the finer foam stuff is more expensive and you can rub it between your fingers making it finer and clumpier would look good on abandoned wagons,

View attachment 181555

the glue is usually a type I can rub off if I over egg it (shhhh stop laughing)
I blacked the windows for depth, then choice a height for the sky behind and added blue/white/dirt then drew in a few branches maybe paint maybe sharpie
View attachment 181557
the rust is from a kit on the vw, it is a chemical process and uses iron filings so real rust
View attachment 181559
I often add a dull rust finish
View attachment 181558View attachment 181564
I am not above using a water effect (glue) and cleaning with real water for best shine before taking a picture
View attachment 181562
oooh the deluxe rust
View attachment 181561
and having an example a painted alternative trick is finding the colour, I like a dark brown and a orange brown for rust and an oil slick paint for dirt and oil
View attachment 181560
View attachment 181563
a couple of brands for you to investigate, and my often discussed dirty water pot far left, I leave it until the water starts to stink literally because cleaning my brushes in it it makes it perfect for a dull dirty finish
…as more comes to mind I’ll do an update…hope it gives you ideas. :D
Click to expand...
Definite ideas given, thanks
 
Jaz avalley said:
Ah technical paints and layers also in the range, the liquid green stuff is NOT a colour it is a texture I added hat and shoulder band he became a thunderbird characterView attachment 181567
View attachment 181565
that crellan earth dries cracked! Excellent kit
View attachment 181569
the Tamiya one is more powdery but has its own uses
View attachment 181566
the oxide turquoise dries ready rusted!
View attachment 181570
a couple of aged greens, yellow highlights
Click to expand...
I use AK Interactive pigments, MiG’s new stuff and Ateilung’s effects. I have a local gaming store that carrys the full Citadel line. I may need to investigate more.

well done JAZ
 
TLOC said:
I use AK Interactive pigments, MiG’s new stuff and Ateilung’s effects. I have a local gaming store that carrys the full Citadel line. I may need to investigate more.

well done JAZ
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I’ve recently had good success working with Vallejo pigments weathering a bridge. If it survives sealing (Tamiya/Dullcote), I’ll have a thread about it.
 
C&OMtnMan said:
I’ve recently had good success working with Vallejo pigments weathering a bridge. If it survives sealing (Tamiya/Dullcote), I’ll have a thread about it.
Click to expand...
I used to use Testors DullCote. It always dissolved my pigments and pan pastels.

i have had good success using Tamiya xf86 flat clear straight no thinning. I don‘t see the dissolving of Vallejo’s pigments or the Pan Pastels I use. PSI on the airbrush is 18.

Best to you
 
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