Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread


I dropped a spline car! Not pretty and in shock enough I forgot to take pictures. I have the replacement already and will take pictures of the deceased in the morning.

Clear coating for the stack cars, spline cars, yellow TBOX boxcars and white tank cars was completely done and everything is dry

Meanwhile, working 2 at a time I have started on the 6 yellow TBOX cars. Here is one of the 4 sides.
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Why, do this now? I touch these spots and drag down while wet TO HOPEFULLY CREATE an illusion that rust has startEd. There will be no large rust spots on any of these 6 cars. Hinges, brackets, door rod joints and rivets are highlited.

Most of these spots will get blended out when I apply the grime to the car sides. But, some of the orange rust will be noticed, not real noticeable but the hint should be there.

The sides are being done1st. Car sides will be done with a Vallejo wash of colors to be decided. Hand brushed on with clear water applied 1st then the wash mix. Repeat until satisfied.

Then the underside of the car will be hit by a “light” spray of flat black but I will not try to cover all the yellow. The nooks and crevices not covered will get a light spray of hull red. This will give the effect (hopefully) of the reddish rust starting to form without overwhelming the underside of the car with too much black or too much of the hull red. If I like it and since these 2 cars are for a new client, I will send pictures for approval. When approved both the sides and the underside of the car again will be sprayed with a Matt Clear. The pictures will continue through each process or until he says go for it. He does have one of my cars he purchased via Facebook but we have not worked together before on a car.

Then the ends will get a kick up grime coat from the tracks and the bottom edge of the car sides will also get that grime coat. Sprayed on Tamiy Arcylic paint, higher on the ends, tapering down to the doors and back up to the other end.

The plan for the doors are to wait until the grime is applied and review if the doors need more fade or more grime.
Starting with these cars, the roofs will be done after the splatter is applied to both ends. I have found that sometimes the splatter gets to the roof. If the roof is already done it becomes a mess, so i will try it on these 2 cars
 
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CambriaArea51 said:
I came across this video taken at high elevation. You get a good look at roof tops. How the heat of the engine radiators get so hot they turn white and rust. Hopper cars with replacement hatches and walkways, spillage, gons with loads, all great weathering ideas.
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Thank you for sharing. You are so correct about the weathering ideas coming from watching that train. A bit of everything.
 
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the wheels sets are ready for both cars and actually for all 6 yellow TBOX cars
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The 2 front cars have been done with different washes. The car on the left was done using a dark earth color. The car on the right was done using a dirt wash that is a lighter color.

The car in the back has only a clear coat applied and was included so the weathered sides of the foreground cars are noticeable to the client
 
Hi.

I have another 4 yellow TBOX cars on the bench this afternoon as I wait for the roofs of the 2 previous shown dry.

Using completely different colors for the initial fade.
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Then as a comparison I put up a fresh out of the box to see any differences after 2 applications
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1st fade was 3 parts water to 1 part paint or 15 drops of water to 5 paint

2nd application was 2-1

While the pictures do not really show the differences there actually is quite a difference on each car from the out of the box color. Right now as everything dries I prefer car #663173 which I faded using Vallejo Air #61.031 Middlestone

I am it sure any more of the fades washes are needed, let me know your constructive thoughts
 
TLOC said:
The last 10 yellow TBOX cars I have to weather. Then it’s onto the stack train well cars and and spline cars. These 10 have the 1st clear coat sprayed and the under frame is sprayed. The fade is next up
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Looking forward to the well, and spine cars. I have about 90 to eventually do for myself someday.

Are those transmission towers by the egg cartons the Walthers kit?
 
migalyto said:
Looking forward to the well, and spine cars. I have about 90 to eventually do for myself someday.

Are those transmission towers by the egg cartons the Walthers kit?
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Yes those are the Walthers towers. Those were on the layout feeding the paper mill power. Now they keep getting in the way. I also have an another new in the box set of them.

I have had issue with finding “good” enough pictures for both the spline and well cars. All pieces have been clear coated. Next thing is the fade. But, there are 78 well cars. I no longer can remember how many spline cars as he keeps sending more. The fade will be done using the airbrush.
 
TLOC said:
I did a mix of white 20% with 80% Isopropyl Alcohol with 2 drops of the X-21 base which the military modelers I have read say is the way it should be used. IMO it faded nicely. Much different then yesterday’s learning experience.

thanks again
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Forgive me for bringing up an older post, Tom, but your formula isn’t very clear:

I get the percentages, but the two drops of X-21 flat base…It makes a difference whether you’re putting two drops in a pint mixture, or a cup, an ounce, or a thimbleful, right?

How big of a batch of 20% white/80% isopropyl are you dropping two drops of X-21 into?
 
C&OMtnMan said:
Forgive me for bringing up an older post, Tom, but your formula isn’t very clear:

I get the percentages, but the two drops of X-21 flat base…It makes a difference whether you’re putting two drops in a pint mixture, or a cup, an ounce, or a thimbleful, right?

How big of a batch of 20% white/80% isopropyl are you dropping two drops of X-21 into?
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One of many weaknesses I have is formulas. Sorry.

let’s go easy. 20% white to 80% isopropyl Alcohol (ipa)

hand brushing

4 drops of white to 16 drops of IPA then 2 drops of the x-21 base, this should entirely cover a 60’ HO scale box car. The car will have a really matte finish

I am a drop counter for sure

if using the air brush

20 drops of white 80 drops of IPA should be enough for 4-6 cars sprayed at about 22-27 PsI. X-21 is very strong and it would be 3-6 drops ( a feel type thing) depending on the flatness I am trying for. I know that’s not helpful but the x-21 really reacts differently I think because of environmental conditions and the amount of IPA used. I am one of a few left in my weathering group in Wisconsin that even continues to uses the x-21. They prefer the Matt clear coat varnishes after the paints are dried.

If I am doing a single car, I will fade the car using the brush
If I am doing multiples, the air brush is the way I go

if you use the X-21 base, make sure you thoroughly mix it. The talc or whatever the agent in there likes to cling to the top side of my bottles

I know, clear as mud. Keep asking though…
 
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