Hope this follow-up is useful or at least interesting to you:
Referencing this thread's Title, you can find the original Unusual Way To Break-In B'mann Diesel Locos here
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28154&highlight=DougC
and the original Simple Fix That Is Working here:
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25244&highlight=DougC
As a info all of my B'mann diesel engines are a mix of GP30s, 35s, 38-2s, 40's 50's, FTA&Bs, and SD40-2s. I also have 4 steamers - all B'mann Berks (beautiful engines, and after lubing and adding 4 to 5 ounces of weight toward the front, excellent runners and pullers.)
I'm combining the two subject threads because they are related.
Since the original Break-in B'mann HO Diesel Locos thread I've done an additional 4 diesels. In 3 of the 4 cases the locos' smoothness and quietness improved - 1 is now on the normal loco roster and the other two on the "run with a smooth-running loco" roster - these two still surge just a little. This might improve over time with just normal running, but I'll probably run them through my unusual break-in method an additional 1 to 3 times. The 4th diesel loco did something that's never happened before and I was surprised (shouldn't have been) and amused. The plastic press-on drive fitting on the shaft of one of the worm drives at the top of a truck gear tower on an FT slipped off when I was pushing down on the loco while running it. I'll glue it back on when I get around to it - not urgent. (Like maybe most of us, I have, well, ahem, more locos than I can use at one time.)
--------------------------
The Simple Fix That Is Working thread was about using Labelle 107 Oil on the commutator plates of model railroad motors to improve their performance (it is one of the stated uses of this oil by Labelle). Well, since the original thread I've done this on many more locos - not just new-out-of-the-box but on ones I've been running a lot (and as I've read elsewhere most HO locos need lubing about every 40 to 60 hours of running - I agree). Here are my results:
A. As mentioned in the original thread the 107 needle applicator is relatively very large, and at the most only 1/2 drop from this applicator should be used. Well, having now done over a dozen locos with this treatment I only apply no more than 1/4 of a "Labelle applicator drop" (I use a syringe with a very small needle with the sharp tip cut off.)
B. What were the results from using a small drop and running the locos with no load, back and forth at varying (and particularly high) speeds? It improved or restored* 6 out of 7 motors.
What about the seventh? This is interesting and may help you. After puting the 1/4 drop on and running it back and forth for a couple of minutes it made the motor run rougher than it was ,and sometimes increased brush/commutator plate arcing (blue and/or yellow colors.) Here's what I did that fixed that. I took a flat wooden toothpick, and holding the fat end I pushed the tapered narrow end through one of the viewing/cooling ports AGAINST the commutator plates while the motor was running. What this did to a certain extent cleaned the plates including removing some or most of the oil. THIS fixed the motor right up, and it now runs normal enough to put it back on the head end of a train (which I did). Sounds sort of counter-intuitive to me but it worked.
Does the toothpick scratch the commutator plates - wood vs. metal (copper) -to deteriorate the plates? I personally don't think so, but IF it does I figure it's insignificant.
* In my experience (2 years) with B'mann HO diesel locos they need to be lubed about every 50 hours of running mostly in the 6 metal bearings (motor and two gear housings) but particularly on the commutator plates.
Most all of my B'mann engines run smooth and quiet but after about 50 hours they start "acting up" - being jerky or not starting after being stopped or ................. Well, 95%+ of the time the problem is in the commutator plates/brushes interfaces, and the proper amount and type of oil applied there is the fix.
Regular commutator plate oil maintenance would be beneficial but I'll admit I'm too lazy to set up and keep track of a Maintenance Shedule for each loco. However when one or more locos start "acting up" I also run some of the other operating locos through the "oil shop" too - knowing they will need it fairly soon.
I also have some Atlas diesels, and I use the Labelle 107 on them too. The results are about the same as with the B'mann engines but in my experience their commutator plates/brushes interfaces are more touchy.
Again, I hope this is helpful or at least interesting. Also, in my limited experience and at least in theory, the use of Labelle 107 could be beneficially used on any brand of locos' commutator plates.
Lastly, I'm NOT associated with Labelle in any way. I've found the product (and there may be/probably are other similar brands) very beneficial and probably the key for loco long-term use and reliability.
DougC
Referencing this thread's Title, you can find the original Unusual Way To Break-In B'mann Diesel Locos here
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28154&highlight=DougC
and the original Simple Fix That Is Working here:
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25244&highlight=DougC
As a info all of my B'mann diesel engines are a mix of GP30s, 35s, 38-2s, 40's 50's, FTA&Bs, and SD40-2s. I also have 4 steamers - all B'mann Berks (beautiful engines, and after lubing and adding 4 to 5 ounces of weight toward the front, excellent runners and pullers.)
I'm combining the two subject threads because they are related.
Since the original Break-in B'mann HO Diesel Locos thread I've done an additional 4 diesels. In 3 of the 4 cases the locos' smoothness and quietness improved - 1 is now on the normal loco roster and the other two on the "run with a smooth-running loco" roster - these two still surge just a little. This might improve over time with just normal running, but I'll probably run them through my unusual break-in method an additional 1 to 3 times. The 4th diesel loco did something that's never happened before and I was surprised (shouldn't have been) and amused. The plastic press-on drive fitting on the shaft of one of the worm drives at the top of a truck gear tower on an FT slipped off when I was pushing down on the loco while running it. I'll glue it back on when I get around to it - not urgent. (Like maybe most of us, I have, well, ahem, more locos than I can use at one time.)
--------------------------
The Simple Fix That Is Working thread was about using Labelle 107 Oil on the commutator plates of model railroad motors to improve their performance (it is one of the stated uses of this oil by Labelle). Well, since the original thread I've done this on many more locos - not just new-out-of-the-box but on ones I've been running a lot (and as I've read elsewhere most HO locos need lubing about every 40 to 60 hours of running - I agree). Here are my results:
A. As mentioned in the original thread the 107 needle applicator is relatively very large, and at the most only 1/2 drop from this applicator should be used. Well, having now done over a dozen locos with this treatment I only apply no more than 1/4 of a "Labelle applicator drop" (I use a syringe with a very small needle with the sharp tip cut off.)
B. What were the results from using a small drop and running the locos with no load, back and forth at varying (and particularly high) speeds? It improved or restored* 6 out of 7 motors.
What about the seventh? This is interesting and may help you. After puting the 1/4 drop on and running it back and forth for a couple of minutes it made the motor run rougher than it was ,and sometimes increased brush/commutator plate arcing (blue and/or yellow colors.) Here's what I did that fixed that. I took a flat wooden toothpick, and holding the fat end I pushed the tapered narrow end through one of the viewing/cooling ports AGAINST the commutator plates while the motor was running. What this did to a certain extent cleaned the plates including removing some or most of the oil. THIS fixed the motor right up, and it now runs normal enough to put it back on the head end of a train (which I did). Sounds sort of counter-intuitive to me but it worked.
Does the toothpick scratch the commutator plates - wood vs. metal (copper) -to deteriorate the plates? I personally don't think so, but IF it does I figure it's insignificant.
* In my experience (2 years) with B'mann HO diesel locos they need to be lubed about every 50 hours of running mostly in the 6 metal bearings (motor and two gear housings) but particularly on the commutator plates.
Most all of my B'mann engines run smooth and quiet but after about 50 hours they start "acting up" - being jerky or not starting after being stopped or ................. Well, 95%+ of the time the problem is in the commutator plates/brushes interfaces, and the proper amount and type of oil applied there is the fix.
Regular commutator plate oil maintenance would be beneficial but I'll admit I'm too lazy to set up and keep track of a Maintenance Shedule for each loco. However when one or more locos start "acting up" I also run some of the other operating locos through the "oil shop" too - knowing they will need it fairly soon.
I also have some Atlas diesels, and I use the Labelle 107 on them too. The results are about the same as with the B'mann engines but in my experience their commutator plates/brushes interfaces are more touchy.
Again, I hope this is helpful or at least interesting. Also, in my limited experience and at least in theory, the use of Labelle 107 could be beneficially used on any brand of locos' commutator plates.
Lastly, I'm NOT associated with Labelle in any way. I've found the product (and there may be/probably are other similar brands) very beneficial and probably the key for loco long-term use and reliability.
DougC
