understanding couplers


While it is possible to mount the right Kaydee couplers on the truck-mounted draft gear (check the chart), you will be better off cutting the truck mountings off and body-mount the appropriate draft gear to the frame.


Unfortunately I have a pretty large selection of rolling stock, many of them from unknown manufacturers, so that is not really an option. I was just wondering if Kadee had an NMRA standard equivalent that would work at least most of the time.
 
... I was just wondering if Kadee had an NMRA standard equivalent that would work at least most of the time.

There are currently NMRA standards for couplers, but they only cover things like height, proportions, and tolerances.

They tried in the 1950's to standardize on a coupler design, but failed. The Horn Hook couplers was one of the early designs offered but was rejected. The manufacturers at the time copied the design as it was easy to manufacture and called it the "NMRA Coupler", which it never was.

The Kadee coupler has become the default standard for most model railroaders. I believe that they have a conformance certificate indicating that they conform to the NMRA's Standards and Recommended Practices.
 
This is hearsay, someone told me to use Kadee draft box 118 with .090 styrene shims on my Bachman passanger cars, does anyone know if this is accrate?
 
The #118s are shelf couplers. The draft gear boxes from any of the whisker couplers (usually in the 1xx series although there are exceptions) are "universal" boxes. I use them whenever I have to take the shell off a loco, and the original coupler pockets don't fit when I replace the shell (they're on VERY tight) or if the original pockets are a pain to put back in due to design. (like with Proto 2000 locos). The coupler pockets have lids that snap on so you don't have to worry about losing it while putting the pocket through the slot.

They come with all non-bulk packs of whisker couplers.
 
There are currently NMRA standards for couplers, but they only cover things like height, proportions, and tolerances.

They tried in the 1950's to standardize on a coupler design, but failed. The Horn Hook couplers was one of the early designs offered but was rejected. The manufacturers at the time copied the design as it was easy to manufacture and called it the "NMRA Coupler", which it never was.

The Kadee coupler has become the default standard for most model railroaders. I believe that they have a conformance certificate indicating that they conform to the NMRA's Standards and Recommended Practices.

Kadee #5 would probably be the universal coupler. With various subtitles. Shelves on passenger cars with diaphragms have not been successful on my railroad due to the top shelf. No diaphragms or filing off the top shelf should take care of that problem, though. Phil
 
Kadee #5 would probably be the universal coupler. With various subtitles. Shelves on passenger cars with diaphragms have not been successful on my railroad due to the top shelf. No diaphragms or filing off the top shelf should take care of that problem, though. Phil

Keep in mind, that shelf couplers are a "recent" development. I believe since the 1970's or 80's, when there were a bunch of train wrecks involving tank cars. These cars got punctured when the couplers slipped out vertically and then punctured the car ends and spilled the car's contents.

What they used to use on passenger cars, were called "Tight-Lock", AKA "Tight-Loc" couplers. IIRC, the knuckles were slightly larger to allow the cars to be coupled together more tightly than with regular couplers. But there weren't any shelves limiting vertical movement. While I think that shelf couplers are used on modern Amtrak equipment, I can say for a fact that there weren't any on the old SRR passenger cars that our NRHS Chapter in Mobile owned.
 
Thanks to all for the input on coupling. I'm just getting started on this project, and will be along year working on it, [mainly during the winter while this old bear hybrenates], but will keep all posted. Thanks
 



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