Ulrich-- Gondola Build
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I like that much better. Thanks for saying something Willie.......
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2Tracks
Ol' School
Final coat on the gondola floor-----Primary Black (A)
My first attempt at weathering like this. I'm happy with it. I think the key here though, (at least for me,) is to test colors/technique before giving it the final go.
With that done, I can move on to the bottom side of the floor. First, is to install the air reservoir, brake cylinder, air valve. This is were those micro files came in handy. I could file the mounting pegs down on these pieces so they fit close to the mounting brackets.
All the components mounted, ready to install brake rodding.
I wanted to know what size wire I needed for the rodding, so I checked out the detailing freight cars book.
This page shows piping/rodding sizes, lower rt.
I needed a couple of rods with clevises, so I used the set of turnbuckles that I had purchased just for that purpose. I trimmed the turnbuckle and cut it in half, then CA'd the wire in it.
My first attempt at weathering like this. I'm happy with it. I think the key here though, (at least for me,) is to test colors/technique before giving it the final go.
With that done, I can move on to the bottom side of the floor. First, is to install the air reservoir, brake cylinder, air valve. This is were those micro files came in handy. I could file the mounting pegs down on these pieces so they fit close to the mounting brackets.
All the components mounted, ready to install brake rodding.
I wanted to know what size wire I needed for the rodding, so I checked out the detailing freight cars book.
This page shows piping/rodding sizes, lower rt.
I needed a couple of rods with clevises, so I used the set of turnbuckles that I had purchased just for that purpose. I trimmed the turnbuckle and cut it in half, then CA'd the wire in it.
That's really taking shape - looks nice!
2Tracks
Ol' School
Thanks Sherrel, appreciate that!
Only 3 pieces of piping to fashion & install, here is the floor complete.
Almost ready for some primer.....tape off the coupler pocket openings......
Out to the train room for primer.
I had cut a piece of balsa wood earlier as a substitute floor while working on the gon sides, I clamped it to the floor to help keep it from being scuffed and keep the primer off my new weathering job.
The trucks came in yesterday, National type B-1 (Kadee's) I ordered from Midwest Model Railroad, who I had seen on the Ron Marsh vids. I didn't recall of hearing of theses guys before so I thought I'd give them a try. Nice service, fast shipment! Looking at there web site, I'm glad I don't live close too them, I know I'd be spending the whole stimulus check there!
Anyway, here's the trucks, notice the suspension on them.......
Only 3 pieces of piping to fashion & install, here is the floor complete.
Almost ready for some primer.....tape off the coupler pocket openings......
Out to the train room for primer.
I had cut a piece of balsa wood earlier as a substitute floor while working on the gon sides, I clamped it to the floor to help keep it from being scuffed and keep the primer off my new weathering job.
The trucks came in yesterday, National type B-1 (Kadee's) I ordered from Midwest Model Railroad, who I had seen on the Ron Marsh vids. I didn't recall of hearing of theses guys before so I thought I'd give them a try. Nice service, fast shipment! Looking at there web site, I'm glad I don't live close too them, I know I'd be spending the whole stimulus check there!
Anyway, here's the trucks, notice the suspension on them.......
JERRY -- I have known of MIDWEST MODEL seems like as long as they have been around. All good reports!
2Tracks
Ol' School
Well, now we're in the waiting period for the primer on the floor assembly to dry/cure, so I thought this would be a good time to start on the gon load. And that will be cinders as I had mentioned before. I used the ol' tried & true method of foam core load making. Lots of Youtube videos on this subject.
With my substitute floor I traced & cut a piece of 1" pink foam. This hacksaw blade holder I had as a holdover from my mechanic days, very handy for cutting foam with a minimal of mess. The blade length is adjustable.
I have an Intermountain 50' 6" war emergency gondola that I used to trim & shape the foam to before painting.
Trimmed & painted. I used the cheapy folkArt paint full strength to cover the foam---don't want pink showing!
While this dries, I'll sort out some cinders for the load. I didn't want pit run, I wanted a fairly consistent size for the load, around the HO one foot size. All the screens that I have, sift to the order of 3-4 inches on down to dust. I had bought a 3 piece screen set some time back, so I took one of those and an awl, and pushed a set of holes thru the screen that would let scale 12 inch cinders through.
I picked out the larger red cinders before crushing the rest. I didn't want the red overwhelming the black, I left the black cinders in for contrast.
Left to right....3 ft size, 1 ft size, 3" & down
With my substitute floor I traced & cut a piece of 1" pink foam. This hacksaw blade holder I had as a holdover from my mechanic days, very handy for cutting foam with a minimal of mess. The blade length is adjustable.
I have an Intermountain 50' 6" war emergency gondola that I used to trim & shape the foam to before painting.
Trimmed & painted. I used the cheapy folkArt paint full strength to cover the foam---don't want pink showing!
While this dries, I'll sort out some cinders for the load. I didn't want pit run, I wanted a fairly consistent size for the load, around the HO one foot size. All the screens that I have, sift to the order of 3-4 inches on down to dust. I had bought a 3 piece screen set some time back, so I took one of those and an awl, and pushed a set of holes thru the screen that would let scale 12 inch cinders through.
I picked out the larger red cinders before crushing the rest. I didn't want the red overwhelming the black, I left the black cinders in for contrast.
Left to right....3 ft size, 1 ft size, 3" & down
MoPac_Eagle
Well Known Member
Your loads will look very nice when they are done.
2Tracks
Ol' School
I was going to approach putting the cinders on the foam as using the 3" and smaller first, (to hide the areas that the 12 inch cinders didn't cover,) and then the 12 inch cinders. This is the foam with only the small fines on it.
Looking at this form, I didn't care for how steep the sides are. When I go to apply the 12" cinders, that will widen the load too much to make it fit in the car. I have lots of foam, so I whipped up another form.
Note the shoulder along the lower edge. It will be easier to keep the cinders above that line.
Old form & new form.
I brushed on straight Elmers glue, applied the 12" cinders first and then poured on the fines to fill in the voids that the 12" cinders wouldn't cover.
With the glue still fresh, I put the load in the car so any cinders that hung over the shoulder would move up and out of the way of the side panels.
Looking at this form, I didn't care for how steep the sides are. When I go to apply the 12" cinders, that will widen the load too much to make it fit in the car. I have lots of foam, so I whipped up another form.
Note the shoulder along the lower edge. It will be easier to keep the cinders above that line.
Old form & new form.
I brushed on straight Elmers glue, applied the 12" cinders first and then poured on the fines to fill in the voids that the 12" cinders wouldn't cover.
With the glue still fresh, I put the load in the car so any cinders that hung over the shoulder would move up and out of the way of the side panels.
santafewillie
Same Ol' Buzzard
Jerry - Nice load although a bit tall in the modern world, maybe not for your era though.
2Tracks
Ol' School
I had noticed that, I was going to go with, cinders are light so they loaded the car up. But since you had said something, it doesn't take much to make a new load.
I like that much better. Thanks for saying something Willie.......
2Tracks
Ol' School
While the paint on the underside of the floor is curing, I painted the inside of the gon sides. This way, with the insides painted, I'll assemble the car and it will be easier to protect the floor when I paint the outside verses trying to protect the floor AND paint the insides.
In a previous step I had put the car together and held it together with the bar clamps and pre drilled the holes for the side mounting pins. Now is when that step comes into play, I can insert the pins through the gon side holes, and into the pre-drilled holes in the floor bottom sill. Carefully hammer the pins down, (using a nail set for the last few millimeters,) and the gon is together.
Did you note the side pins?
In a previous step I had put the car together and held it together with the bar clamps and pre drilled the holes for the side mounting pins. Now is when that step comes into play, I can insert the pins through the gon side holes, and into the pre-drilled holes in the floor bottom sill. Carefully hammer the pins down, (using a nail set for the last few millimeters,) and the gon is together.
Did you note the side pins?
2Tracks
Ol' School
Ok, let's get this thing painted! I cut a piece of card stock (it's thin) and with a couple small pieces of double sided tape, covered the gon floor.
I pre drilled a hole and threaded in a dowel for use as a handle. Assembled the Paasche TG Talon, it's a double action air brush, and commenced to painting. The most difficult part of painting the gon was on the bottom side, getting the corners were the cross bearers meet the center sill. Diligence here pays off. I am strictly a novice at air brush use, but what a great job it does painting, no way could you brush paint a car and have it come out looking this nice. For you guys hesitant about getting one, get one! It is worth it!
Here is the car painted......
I pre drilled a hole and threaded in a dowel for use as a handle. Assembled the Paasche TG Talon, it's a double action air brush, and commenced to painting. The most difficult part of painting the gon was on the bottom side, getting the corners were the cross bearers meet the center sill. Diligence here pays off. I am strictly a novice at air brush use, but what a great job it does painting, no way could you brush paint a car and have it come out looking this nice. For you guys hesitant about getting one, get one! It is worth it!
Here is the car painted......
2Tracks
Ol' School
I saved one of those blister packs for decaling because it was a nice size and flat. Tweezers and the point of a # 11 blade are my preferred tools for decal applying.
I always liked starting on on the right end & progressing towards the left end. Just comfortable for me. I'll put the decal in water for about 30 seconds and then take it out and put it next to the area were I want to apply it, and let if finish soaking. You don't want the decal coming off the paper in the water. I'll take the edge of a paper towel and soak up the extra water around the decal. If I don't get rid the extra water, the surface tension will make it hard to position the decal. Holding the paper with the tweezers I'll slide the decal off with the point of the #11 blade. Once the decal is in position, I'll soak up any extra water.
Here is the complete side.
With the sides done, install the -work on the end of the car tool-( I showed it in the New Tools Forum thread, post #14,) install the end decals.
I marked a center line (eyeballed it) on the tape covering the coupler box to help me center the decals.
With all the decals on installed, I'll let them dry a day before I apply the Micro Sol. If you apply the Micro Sol while the decals are still wet, you'll up your chances of moving the decal out of place. I usually apply 3 or 4 coats of Micro Sol depending on how rough the surface is.
I always liked starting on on the right end & progressing towards the left end. Just comfortable for me. I'll put the decal in water for about 30 seconds and then take it out and put it next to the area were I want to apply it, and let if finish soaking. You don't want the decal coming off the paper in the water. I'll take the edge of a paper towel and soak up the extra water around the decal. If I don't get rid the extra water, the surface tension will make it hard to position the decal. Holding the paper with the tweezers I'll slide the decal off with the point of the #11 blade. Once the decal is in position, I'll soak up any extra water.
Here is the complete side.
With the sides done, install the -work on the end of the car tool-( I showed it in the New Tools Forum thread, post #14,) install the end decals.
I marked a center line (eyeballed it) on the tape covering the coupler box to help me center the decals.
With all the decals on installed, I'll let them dry a day before I apply the Micro Sol. If you apply the Micro Sol while the decals are still wet, you'll up your chances of moving the decal out of place. I usually apply 3 or 4 coats of Micro Sol depending on how rough the surface is.
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