Track problem


ThomasCollector5

New Member
So i recently started buildung my layout and i bought atlas code 83 track. I set it all up and tested my favorite locomotive (hornby LMS P2) and the flanges are too big and they ride on the sleepers im considering returning the track and buying code 100 so the flanges fit but im not sure id really like some advice thanks :)
 
the hornby loco is -probably- an older one, with non rp25 compliant wheelsets ... be easier to replace the loco ..
 
You obviously have two choices here. 1) Purchase newer locos and cars that work on the code 83, or 2) return the track for code 100. I think that it is unlikely that anyone would accept the return of the track at purchase price since it is now used and is not in the original package.
If it were me, I'd get new equipment and set the Hornby up on a display shelf.
 
OR, cut the flanges down. I've done a couple or Rivarossi steam locos
I asked this question in another post. How do you cut down the flange? Inside out or outside in? Either has problems - either means that you have to set gauge. Which is easier with less machining? Wondering minds just want to iknow?
 
Unless you have some precision machining equipment, you're not going to be able to do a good job on those wheels.
The large flanges keep the train from flying off the track when running at a scale 200mph or so. If your intent is high speed freight trains, trade the track in for taller rails. Otherwise put that loco up on the bookshelf or give it to the kiddies for the sand box and get yourself something at bit more prototype looking. On the other hand, if your modeling European trains then you might be ok with the big flange.
 
Why not contact Hornby directly and see if you can get a new set of drive wheels.

Here's the pdf. for it.
You can get the new wheelsets for a P2 from eBay.
Hornby don't do a HO version of the wheels, sorry.
If you want a set, and you can't find any your side of the pond, eBay has them.


if seller doesn't do international shipping, let me know, and I'll ship it for you.
 
I asked this question in another post. How do you cut down the flange? Inside out or outside in? Either has problems - either means that you have to set gauge. Which is easier with less machining? Wondering minds just want to iknow?
I don't really understand your question, but grinding down the flanges requires patience and a gentle hand. Too much initial grinding can melt things you really don't want melted, not even slightly deformed, and that's going to be due to heat.

The gauge won't change when grinding down flanges. I mean it will change, but not so much that it will have a deleterious effect. If it does result in inadvertent contact, say with a frog point or a guard rail, or it binds a bit on curves, simply remove the offending axle(s) and change the gauge for the 0.3mm it will take in HO.
 



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