Track loss exaggeration


We max out at 2 cents here. Every opinon is valuable here.

I think we should do this. Install a bus. Use what you can get at a reasonable price. Try for at least 14......it is copper after all.

Install feeders at a reasonable distance apart. Remember that if you install at every 10 feet then you are getting a strong signal at no more then 5 feet away.

Solder your joints and start switching out freight.
 
Here's my 2 cents worth. In all the years of Model RR'ing I have never soldered a single track together. I always use NS joiners & sometimes I have to crimp the end to make them tight on the rail flange. I use 14 ga, stranded copper wire for a buss wire & 20 ga. solid copper wire for drops every 4ft.
That 4ft drop is on main lines, spurs, sidings & whatever. My mainlines are set w/a straight edge & I gap all of my track w/a business card.
My building gets up to 110 degree's in the summer & as cold as the outside air in the winter. Sometimes it gets down to 25 degree's or less & YES, I live in south Florida. I have always had DC & probably will never have DCC because of the cost & 90% of my loco's would have to be converted to accept DCC. I have 4 hi powered MRC transformers w/amp & volt gauges. I can run my trains so slow that they look like they're not even moving. I keep my track clean w/box cars set up w/track cleaners on every consist.
In all the years of running trains I have always used steel benchwork w/1/2" 4 ply CDX screwed down w/countersunk steel machine screws. I always make a printed layout of all my wiring in layout sections. Always use flextrack & Atlas TO's.
I'm always open to new idea's & always learn new things on this forum.
Plus, after all these years you learn from your mistakes.(most of the time) LOL

Larry
 
Joe Daddy, I completely agree with you on the hype with current loads from locomotives. All but two of mine are sound equipped and all (19) are always on the layout;there is also one lighted passenger train. With this static condition, my RRampmeter shows 1.4 amps going to the track. This value has been validated with a lab quality Fluke digital meter. When I start up locos w/consist, it takes 3-4 running before it will go over 2 amps. The 0.25 average per loco sounds about right from my experience. Not long ago, I had an op session on the layout that had 22 powered locomotives in operation with at least 16 pulling and the meter never went over 5 amps. (I have a Digitrax Chief 8amp)

The reason I went with 12awg solid for my layout bus is the size of the layout (double garage) and the convenience of being able to shape the wire to easily conform with bends and turns (solid). For smaller layouts, I cannot understand why all the argument about 12, 14, 16 awg when the price difference between them is insignificant for that short of length. Why not go with the larger and not worry about it? Just buy some Romex house wire, easily strip the sheathing and there you go. These same people will go out and pay $40 for a caboose, but worry about $5 difference (if that) in wire cost.

Joe/Larry: I also agree that the bottom-line is the workmanship that goes into the benchwork will determine how well the track/layout will perform. You cannot take shortcuts with this phase of construction. I have seen guys use 1/4" scrap plywood that wasn't supported properly, nor was it fastened properly and then wonder why it has warped and twisted everything. Or: Use BC plywood at 24" ctr joists, use just enough screws to keep it from sliding and wonder why their track moves. Personally, I use BC 1/2", 16" ctrs, and never spare on the screws.
One note: For those saying a foam layout doesn't have to worry about wood warping/twisting, well, the foam is secured to the wood...right?;)
 



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