Track Bed Foam vs Cork

[68 Camaro]

I have had excellent success with cork sheets that are used for lining drawers (don't laugh). The profile is approximately 3/32" to 1/8" thick (roughly N gauge thickness) and comes in a large roll. The down side is that you have to cut for curves, but I simply placed the sheet under the curved track section and then traced the curve onto the cork. It does come with a adhesive backing, but I used an adhesive caulk to keep it in place. I purchased it at Home Depot and is great for yards and siding where you want a lower profile roadbed.

Larry

 

[RexHea]

Jacob, that doesn't sound typical of WS foam roadbed as it is more dense than that and with only a moderate downward give. I've had it on my present layout for 6 years (some ballasted and some not) and have not experienced any of those problems. That includes sitting on it, leaning on it, and just plain abuse during layout work (not intentionally, of course) There are a few other brand names out there that have been tried by others with terrible results. Maybe that is what you were dealing with or even homemade.

Ron, I don't use caulking, but once you ballast and add glue to it, that track is not going to move. In fact, you will have to dilute it with water to loosen it up...or use a hammer

 

[ICG/SOU]

Make sure it is ADHESIVE caulk. I used the wrong kind, non-adhesive, and it was too easy to pull up a few days later.

 

[rem37411]

I made a switch and am going to use elmers to adhere the roadbed to the foam table and then I am just going to use nails all over the track until I ballast then pull all the nails up then. Am I correct in thinking that the ballast is usually laid and then coated with diluted elmers anyway?

 

[UP2CSX]

Ron, that's correct. Just make sure you pull the nails out carefully after you ballast lest you damage the ties or ballast.

 

[RexHea]

I made a switch and am going to use elmers to adhere the roadbed to the foam table and then I am just going to use nails all over the track until I ballast then pull all the nails up then. Am I correct in thinking that the ballast is usually laid and then coated with diluted elmers anyway?

Now that's how I did mine, except I left my nails in...no particular reason, but I don't believe anyone has every noticed. Elmers white glue is plenty strong enough and a lot cheaper than yellow glue. In fact, you don't need but a couple of lines of glue under the roadbed.

 

[Neopuron]

I still have my nails in and I am not using a foam board on top of my MDF 4x8 sheet. Basically its MDF board, WS foam roadbed, then track. Only thing I had to watch out for was going too deep with the nail, that would cause the rail tie to have a slight bend in it. Other then that I think both the foam road bed and track is held in place very well.

I just finished my bus wiring and managed to wire up 10 feeder wires running from the bus to the track. Used solid 14g copper for the bus that is running to my DC power pack. The feeders are 22g solid copper. I managed to get the current flowing through the tracks the other night and did some test runs with my little SD-12 and my GP38 and it ran very well. Went through all the turnouts in both forward and reverse to only one problem... (forgot to turn the switch for the direction it was coming)

Anyway I was happy with the results of it all. Now I need to wire up my snap switches. I know its going to look a little tacky as I didn't get the under the table or ground throws. They are just basic Atlas #6 remote snap switches. But since its my first layout I am ok with it.

I have 5 in all right now. Might have to add 2 more if I am going to be able to finish my storage yard. Right now the track plan is very simple, outer loop and a inner loop. With the extra switch coming off the inner loop that will lead into the yard.

All in all I think its pretty good considering the space limitations I have in the room. Hopefully we can upgrade to the bigger house in the future. Then I can move from the guest bedroom, to a TRAINROOM!

Derek

 

[alexlileys90]

Hi my name is Alex
I was wondering if anyone has used felt for road beds? It wouldn't dry out or shrink and it offers weed popping through the ballast on sidings. I was thinking for my next layout that I would try somthing new.

 

[35tac]

WS foam

Latex clear caulk works finedries somewhat quickly and works fine. Spread is and use a roller and you are in business. No problem with ballast either.

Wayne

 

[Cjcrescent]

Hi my name is Alex
I was wondering if anyone has used felt for road beds? It wouldn't dry out or shrink and it offers weed popping through the ballast on sidings. I was thinking for my next layout that I would try somthing new.

Welcome to the forums, Alex. I hope that you will learn from us and we learn from you.

While the idea of this sounds fine, it may even work, my concern would be the fibers that look like weeds, getting into motors and gears of a loco. My fear may be baseless, but doing repairs on others locos, you'd be surprised at the stuff I've pulled out of gearboxes and motors. IMHO, Felt fibers just sounds like a problem waiting to happen.

 

[montanan]

I have seen layouts where after time cork has dried out. If you haven't started, try homasote. I used a product called "Homabed". It came in strips, like cork, and for switches there was a larger flat piece that you would trim to size. Most of my track is hand laid until recent years. Some of it has been in place for well over 15 years and it is as good as new. It holds spikes great, along with ballast. I don't know if this product is still available under this brand name, but homasote can be bought in quarter in sheets at better lumber yards. It used to be used a lot years ago, but I haven't heard much mentioned about it in recent years. I do know a lot of other model railraoders who have used it also and no one has ever had a problem with it.

 

[Cjcrescent]

I believe that Homabed is still available under that Brand name, but the availability of the sheets depends on what part of the country you're in. The product from Homasote, (the company's real name), that we knew as Homasote, according to the website, last time I looked, is now called Homasote Soundboard, IIRC.

I live in the south, and NO ONE carries it here, and except for specialty suppliers, NO ONE wants to. The price is outrageous as well from these places. I would prefer to use Homasote, but the price, (almost $80 a 5' x 9' sheet the last time I checked), from the only place that does carry some of it, prevents this.

Other general lumberyards are willing to order it, but their minimum order, (1 ton), would blow my budget for a couple of years. They won't even order it unless its all "bought" before ordering. I think this is because it is rarely used here at all, and they would have a hard time selling what was left over after my 4 sheets.

I have found a very good substitute, in what we call "Brown Board". Its insulating sheathing, 1/2" thick, 4' x 8'. I cut out strips, slightly wider than what is needed, and then split the strips with the saw into 1/4" thick strips. These are then beveled, and laid out for use. Partial cuts are placed thru the material, to allow for bending into smooth curves. Best thing is this material is $6.00 to $8.00 a sheet.

It really holds spikes well. I've had some of it in place for almost 7 years, and no spikes have worked loose in the partial climate controlled garage in the basement.

 

[montanan]

I believe that Homabed is still available under that Brand name, but the availability of the sheets depends on what part of the country you're in. The product from Homasote, (the company's real name), that we knew as Homasote, according to the website, last time I looked, is now called Homasote Soundboard, IIRC.

I live in the south, and NO ONE carries it here, and except for specialty suppliers, NO ONE wants to. The price is outrageous as well from these places. I would prefer to use Homasote, but the price, (almost $80 a 5' x 9' sheet the last time I checked), prevents this.

Other general lumberyards are willing to order it, but their minimum order, (1 ton), would blow my budget for a couple of years. They won't even order it unless its all "bought" before ordering.

I have found a very good substitute, in what we call "Brown Board". Its insulating sheathing, 1/2" thick, 4' x 8'. I cut out strips, slightly wider than what is needed, and then split the strips with the saw into 1/4" thick strips. These are then beveled, and laid out for use. Partial cuts are placed partway thru the material, to allow for bending into smooth curves. Best thing is this material is $6.00 to $8.00 a sheet.

It really holds spikes well. I've had some of it in place for almost 7 years, and no spikes have worked loose in the non-climate controlled garage in the basement.

I am glad to see that he is still in business. I wasn't sure on exactly how much I needed and overpurchased on purpose. I still have some left over in case I need it. As far as I am concerned, this is the very best material for roadbed. I hobby for well over 40 years and have helped others and clubs build layouts and by far Homabed is superior.

 

[montanan]

I am glad to see that he is still in business. I wasn't sure on exactly how much I needed and overpurchased on purpose. I still have some left over in case I need it. As far as I am concerned, this is the very best material for roadbed. I hobby for well over 40 years and have helped others and clubs build layouts and by far Homabed is superior.

The Homabed I bought was milled. It is almost shaped the same as cork roadbed. It has a 45 or so degree angle on one side like the cork, but in the center, it has cuts from the center so it is easier to bend into curves. I am not home now, but when I get a chance, I will take and post a few photos. It can be bought by the foot, not in sheets.

 

[Cjcrescent]

...As far as I am concerned, this is the very best material for roadbed. I hobby for well over 40 years and have helped others and clubs build layouts and by far Homabed is superior.

I completely agree with this. I've been in the hobby for 50 years myself. It was the #1 material cited in just about all the articles on building layouts in all the mags I've read since I got serious in the hobby when I was 8 years old! I wanted to use it as well!

I have been able to use it in the past on other layouts I helped build, where the modeler went to an area that carried it, and bought some. Trouble is, the trips often involved traveling several hundred miles to get the homasote. That's how badly they wanted to use it. Trouble is, they either made those trips years before I knew them, or they didn't want to make a return trip, or sell me their surplus.

But, with my luck being what it is, as soon as I finish gluing the last set of ties and spiking down the last rail on the last spur, someone will call me and ask how many sheets I want!! They would have located some at a bankruptcy sale and bought 50 sheets at a penny on the dollar!!!

 

[montanan]

I completely agree with this. I've been in the hobby for 50 years myself. It was the #1 material cited in just about all the articles on building layouts in all the mags I've read since I got serious in the hobby when I was 8 years old! I wanted to use it as well!

I have been able to use it in the past on other layouts I helped build, where the modeler went to an area that carried it, and bought some. Trouble is, the trips often involved traveling several hundred miles to get the homasote. That's how badly they wanted to use it. Trouble is, they either made those trips years before I knew them, or they didn't want to make a return trip, or sell me their surplus.

But, with my luck being what it is, as soon as I finish gluing the last set of ties and spiking down the last rail on the last spur, someone will call me and ask how many sheets I want!! They would have located some at a bankruptcy sale and bought 50 sheets at a penny on the dollar!!!

Go to www.homabed.com. They have pictures of the final milled product. It is competative with cord roadbed. I had bought mine tears and years ago, but they are still in business. When I bought mine, I think it was a one man operation doing the milling. No more waste than using cork, but a better product as far as I am concerned. Here are some pictures. You can buy it by the foot and although I haven't had to price any roadbedin years, it is competative with other products on the market. It is all milled and cut, ready to use.

 

[bn-1000]

Well, I have decided to use foam for my roadbed and here in Australia we have a moulded product called TrackRite. See Here: http://www.gosfordhobbies.com.au/shop/product.php?productid=5919

It works out at about $30 for 10 metres. Okay it's not the best value product but it is easy to use, flextrack fits and sits perfectly in the recess and I find the sound transfer characteristics is far better than cork.

I have known people to use the foam product which is used in concrete expansion joints.

I found that the more dense the underlay material is, the more sound transfer you get from track to baseboard.

From my experience you can attempt to reduce the sound transfer from the track to the baseboard as much as you like, however gluing the ballast negates a lot of your sound reductions efforts. So I have found the the most you can do to acheive the minimum amount of sound transfer from the track to the baseboard in the initial stages, the better.

Cheers,

 

[Cjcrescent]

Go to www.homabed.com. They have pictures of the final milled product. It is competative with cord roadbed. I had bought mine tears and years ago, but they are still in business. When I bought mine, I think it was a one man operation doing the milling. No more waste than using cork, but a better product as far as I am concerned.

I've seen it, and one of the guys in the club has used it on his layout. It definitely is best if you're hand laying like me, but he put down flex and decided the price difference,(this was over 10yrs ago), wasn't worth it. Right now I have enough of my sheathing cut and ready to go for the rest of the layout, so I'll just stick to that as I only got about 49' of main left,with 26' or so of spurs.

 

[RexHea]

Well, I have decided to use foam for my roadbed and here in Australia we have a moulded product called TrackRite. See Here: http://www.gosfordhobbies.com.au/shop/product.php?productid=5919

It works out at about $30 for 10 metres. Okay it's not the best value product but it is easy to use, flextrack fits and sits perfectly in the recess and I find the sound transfer characteristics is far better than cork.

I have known people to use the foam product which is used in concrete expansion joints.

I found that the more dense the underlay material is, the more sound transfer you get from track to baseboard.

From my experience you can attempt to reduce the sound transfer from the track to the baseboard as much as you like, however gluing the ballast negates a lot of your sound reductions efforts. So I have found the the most you can do to acheive the minimum amount of sound transfer from the track to the baseboard in the initial stages, the better.

Cheers,

I fully agree with you. I have ~1500 of WS foam roadbed down and have found it easier to work with than other types. Yes, once it is down and ballasted there is no difference in durability, sound, or looks. It really comes to what you want to work with.