Tie down chains


tootnkumin

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I'm gonna buy some Lonestar chain tie downs (plastic, have the locking lever moulded into a short length) and am looking for some chain to extend them. Walthers have them both. They have HO brass chain in 27 links/inch and 40 links/inch. Walthers can't tell me which matches the Lonestar the closest. Any body got a clue as to which might be the most appropriate.

This is for tieing down Norscot HO Caterpillar stuff onto flat cars.
 
I think the 40 per inch would be closer to actual tie down, 27 is bigger than logging chain in HO.
I just bought some transport chain the other day and can't remember the schedule #.
When you tie down the Cats make sure to put the chain in the right place, and not just wrapped over the hood, looks much better!
 
I think the 40 per inch would be closer to actual tie down, 27 is bigger than logging chain in HO.
I just bought some transport chain the other day and can't remember the schedule #.
When you tie down the Cats make sure to put the chain in the right place, and not just wrapped over the hood, looks much better!

Yes I was thinking that the 40 per" would most likely look best, bit hard to judge from a photo and not being in your hand. I've managed to "glean" quite a few pics from the net and RRpictures etc of loads and cars. Usual method is either wrapped around axles, hubs or onto lugs provided on the chassis' (not that the models have these unfortunately)

I was lucky enough the other day to get a close up look at a large tractor on a road lowloader, so got some ideas from that, was why I went looking for the lever tightening/locking clamps.

The other thing I'll be looking for is wooden crates or pallets 'cause I've got 5 of the D9T Dozers that have to be partially dismantled to fit them onto the decks.
 
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For what it's worth, 40 links per inch scales to about 2" inches per link in HO scale. 27 links per inch scales to about 3 1/4" per link.
 
For what it's worth, 40 links per inch scales to about 2" inches per link in HO scale. 27 links per inch scales to about 3 1/4" per link.

The 40 links per it is then, the 27 would look far too big for tiedowns.

Thanks for that.
 
I'm gonna buy some Lonestar chain tie downs (plastic, have the locking lever moulded into a short length) and am looking for some chain to extend them. Walthers have them both. They have HO brass chain in 27 links/inch and 40 links/inch. Walthers can't tell me which matches the Lonestar the closest. Any body got a clue as to which might be the most appropriate.

This is for tieing down Norscot HO Caterpillar stuff onto flat cars.

I've used the 40 links with Intermountains tie downs. The 27's could be used as anchor chain. Phil
 
You might already know this, but....

A number of years ago when I was "chaining" loads down to my HO flatcars I wanted some straight chain (for use on the underside of construction equipment chasis then angling down to the flatcars' stake pockets - VERY prototypical.) The easiest way I did this worked great - hang a length of chain down from a pin or very small nail and run superglue (which is clear = invisible) down it. Let it cure and then cut off lengths of chain as you need them.

DougC
 
You might already know this, but....

A number of years ago when I was "chaining" loads down to my HO flatcars I wanted some straight chain (for use on the underside of construction equipment chasis then angling down to the flatcars' stake pockets - VERY prototypical.) The easiest way I did this worked great - hang a length of chain down from a pin or very small nail and run superglue (which is clear = invisible) down it. Let it cure and then cut off lengths of chain as you need them.

DougC

No, I didn't know that one, was wondering how to get the slack out of the chain, your hint is much appreciated.
 
40 is typically the right size for most HO projects that require chains. The 27 links per inch is probably the equivalent to an anchor chain on a battleship.
 
chains

a-Line makes some chains also. Might try that. I am a retired heavy haul trucker, and it always amazes me the way lots of folks tie down loads on either flat cars or low boy trailers. We always chained dozers over the rippers on the rear, and across the dozer arms in the front, graders had chain on the front axels pulling both forward and rearward, and over the rear axels on each side pulling forward. Front wheels were always facing the rear of the trailer. Loaders were about the same as the graders on the rear, and over the bucket arms on the gooseneck. Dozers and loaders had to have the dozer and bucks over the goosenecks so they were at least six feet above the asphalt roadway. Sometimes we used blocks to raise these high enough to be legal. Red flags front and rear on the outside of each load. We usually used oversize load signs and the equipment was usually overweight, and over width. Wide load signs are for wide loads only, not overweight loads.:D
 
Thanks for that info railnut49. Yes you've got to look at the load and ask youirself "which way is this likely to move under stopping, starting and cornering forces and brace it accordingly. Interesting about the 6ft clearance from the road surface, I guess that was to reduce the risk of the blade etc "scalping" bystanders or deroofing passing vehicles if they should swing out.
These days, I guess, as most of this stuff is loaded onto flat cars by crane/hoist the direction of travel is not as important as when it was done circus style.
 



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