The novice has a question


M

Mike Shepheard

Member
I'm not ready to start running my layout on a regular basis, but I have a question that many will think "he outta know that" but I don't. Most of the freight cars, box, hopper, and tank are for the most part 50+ years old. I'm adding new as I go along. Most everything has plastic wheels. I have been reading about metal wheels and it seems they are the better item to use. My layout is HO scale. This is my first attempt at a full size layout since I was a kid 60+ years ago. Anyone have any suggestions about which type and which mfg. is cost minded, and ease to install? I'm open for any suggestions. Thanks,
Mike
 
Mike,

I think most manufacturers are pretty much the same; however, my preference would be for Kadee wheels and trucks. With the wheel sets, there are basically two types - standard and bearing wheel sets - I think that's right. Obviously the bearing sets will run smoother but will also be a little more than the standard.

Bottom line is that metal wheels are (in my opinion) better than plastic and all are easily fitted. The current wheels should just "pop out" and the new ones should just pop back into the trucks. Each wheel set should have a little lug on either end that slides into a "hole" in the trucks. About the only thing you might need to remember is to get the right wheels (size wise) for your rolling stock. I think freight cars run 33" wheels.

In short, virtually any metal wheels will be better than plastic wheels and they are all pretty much of a muchness when it comes to manufacturers.
 
What you will find with the various manufacturers is, although they use the same wheel diameters, as Tony has said, generally 33" for freight and 36" for passenger, though a lot of modern freight cars use 36", if your cars are from the steam era, many will have ribbed back wheels, later ones will be smooth backed, axle lengths will be your greatest challenge. "Athearn" Bluebox for instance were over an inch long over the axle points, whereas most later products were less. If you fit axles that are too short, the cars will ride lower than they should and there's the possibility of them tending to sway because the axles can move side to side. too long and they won't run freely. There is a tool called a "truck tuning tool" which can be used to cut away excess sideframe bearing material in cases where the only solution is to fit longer axles because the correct length aren't available, or to reform the socket where it's become worn.

Have a look through this page and the next 2 of these Reeboxx wheelsets on modeltrainstuff.com and you'll see what I'm referring to regarding axle lengths http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/HO-S...htmsearching=Y&sort=3&cat=1469&show=30&page=5. Most manufacturers use the pointed ends, but some of the up-market ones have straight ended axles that pass through the truck's side frame and have a plastic cap pressed on to represent roller bearings that actually rotate as per prototype. (darned hard to actually see them doing so unless they've been painted differently to the truck's color).

A vernier caliper will be necessary to measure your axles accurately.
 
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Oh, and as far as being "outta know that", after a 60+ years gap, there's gonn'a be an awful lot that you will wonder about, I came back after a 40 year hiatus and wondered what the heck was going on. As has been said, the only foolish question is the one not asked, so ask away. These forums have been the source of most of what I needed to learn.
 
Mike: Here's my 2 cents -

I've got three trains that average about 64 cars each, and I can run them all simultaneously. Over the past 22 years I've converted about 15% of the wheels from plastic to metal. Why did I do that and not convert ALL the plastic wheels? Easy answer: There was no need to - the current plastic wheels generally work (roll) fine, so if it ain't broke don't fix it. And yes, some of them pick up "gunk" from the rails but that's about maybe 10 cars per train, and I clean those wheels about every 5 years. (They are easy to clean because I use ONLY Wahl hair clipper oil on my track (all nickle silver Atlas code 100); the oil keeps any gunk soft and easy to scrape off.)

Every once in a while I convert a railcar's wheels from plastic to metal because they roll easier, especially when purchasing used railcars online.

Lastly, as info, in general the more you change plastic wheels to metal wheels the louder your train will be when running on your track. And the faster your trains run the louder the noise gets (just like the 1-to-1 railcars!) :)

DougC
 
I would be more concerned if some of those cars have chisel flanges. You are better to test roll them, get a block of length of wood and set it at a slight angle with some track on it, those that have trouble rolling look at cleaning them/lubing them, or replace them. Make sure the bolster screws are taught , not tight allowing some wobblyness, one truck the bolster screw should be taught and not allow wobbliness, but still swing. I would even lube the bolsters.
 
I thank you all for your input. It answers several of the questions I've had on my mind. I think to prudent thing is to do one car at a time as needed. I had no idea about the sound difference with plastic and metal. There is another reason this forum is so helpful for we nubies. Again Thanks,
Mike
 
I like the clickety-clack. Have not heard that sound or term since I was on a train coming home from the service in the 60's. Fond memories of that train ride. Thanks for sharing.
Mike
 
Intermountian makes a great 33" or 36" wheel. Buy them in bulk packs for about $70. This will convert about 25 cars.

Metal wheels are better than plastic. Not only will they roll better but the don't pick up as much dirt.
 
Though metal wheels are a tad bit better, I think the difference is pretty much negligible... you shouldn't have to clean either type more than once every five years, and a good set of plastic wheels can roll just as smoothly as metal wheels (IMO). Metal wheels probably add a little weight to the car, and weight typically makes things more stable when it's centered, but because the wheels are so low to the ground it shouldn't matter. There is a slight sound difference, and there is a slight price difference. (IMO), metal wheels give a car a quality feel. Might want to do some experimenting and see if it's worth it for you.
 
Do a test.. Take a truck installed with plastic wheels and then put it on a slight grade. Now install metal wheels and do the same test...Come back and tell me which one rolls better... I think you will be surprised just how much better a standard metal wheel rolls vs a plastic wheel.
 
Hello Trent,

I'll go tomorrow am and buy a group of metal 33" wheels. I will try your idea, it sounds like a good one. I'll let you know my results. Thanks for the input.
Mike Shepheard
 
I found kadee had a PDF file on their wheels and truck set I tried to place it here to big of file. And the copy print don't work to well on my phone. Truck_wheel_PDF is its name.
 
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