Taking Athearn RTR apart

[gabby]

Is there any secret to this. On a couple of them I unscrew the couplers and take the boxes out and then body comes away from the chassis.

I am having dificulty with a couple of others in that I do the above and they won't come apart. Are there extra screws involved?

 

[tootnkumin]

Hi Bob, the newer RTR models seem to have the unscrew the couplers method of releasing the body. I have an earlier type as well and I have the same problem. Is yours like this underneath.

The 4 Rectangular holes in the fuel tank are clips (the screws presumably hold the motor in place). According to the instructions you press inwards on each side of the body in line with those clips to release them. I have never been able to get them to budge, so I too would like to hear from anyone about this.

 

[diburning]

The DCC ready RTR are just held in by the coupler screws. The older RTR (GP38-2, 40-2, and GP50) use the 4 fuel tank tabs. The trick is to squeeze between them with as many fingers as possible, and squeeze hard. If that doesn't work, gently pry the tabs with a flathead screwdriver, and insert a toothpick between the tab and the hole to stop the tab from springing back into place.

 

[tootnkumin]

The DCC ready RTR are just held in by the coupler screws. The older RTR (GP38-2, 40-2, and GP50) use the 4 fuel tank tabs. The trick is to squeeze between them with as many fingers as possible, and squeeze hard. If that doesn't work, gently pry the tabs with a flathead screwdriver, and insert a toothpick between the tab and the hole to stop the tab from springing back into place.

Thanks for confirming what I suspected might be the answer. The one in my pic is a GP40-2.

I did try the method you describe using 4 of my small screwdrivers to hold the tabs back but obviously wasn't game enough to apply enough "squeeze" on the body (plus they had a tendency to pop out). I feel somewhat more emboldened to give it another go now I know I was on the right track. I think I will also try a spot of lubricant on each tab, might help them to release, and after I get the body off, file a bit of an angle on them so they don't grip so firmly. I need to get this one apart so I can oil the motor bearings. The last time I ran it at the club it started making an odd noise which one of the other more experienced members identified as dry bearings.

 

[gabby]

Hi Bob, the newer RTR models seem to have the unscrew the couplers method of releasing the body. I have an earlier type as well and I have the same problem. Is yours like this underneath.

The 4 Rectangular holes in the fuel tank are clips (the screws presumably hold the motor in place). According to the instructions you press inwards on each side of the body in line with those clips to release them. I have never been able to get them to budge, so I too would like to hear from anyone about this.

I do have some like that and they also are a pain to get the body off. The ones I'm asking about haver the coupler screws and then there is a screw that releases the fuel tank. Then there are 4 more screws. I presume for the motor

These are GP40X (SP) if that helps - with the quick plug and play star on the lid of the box.

 

[tootnkumin]

I do have some like that and they also are a pain to get the body off. The ones I'm asking about haver the coupler screws and then there is a screw that releases the fuel tank. Then there are 4 more screws. I presume for the motor

These are GP40X (SP) if that helps - with the quick plug and play star on the lid of the box.

Haha, never mind. I also have one of the quick plug GP35's and I found that one no trouble so I'll do a refresher course on it after dinner and get back to you. At least with a bit of diburning's toothpics and my small screwdrivers I got the body off the GP40 and was able to give it a service. Also sanded about 1/2 the clip away on the 4 tabs and now they pop in and out no problemo but still hold the body firmly. Found it best to squeeze the sides of the walkways and not the hood as I was doing before.

 

[gabby]

Haha, never mind. I also have one of the quick plug GP35's and I found that one no trouble so I'll do a refresher course on it after dinner and get back to you. At least with a bit of diburning's toothpics and my small screwdrivers I got the body off the GP40 and was able to give it a service. Also sanded about 1/2 the clip away on the 4 tabs and now they pop in and out no problemo but still hold the body firmly. Found it best to squeeze the sides of the walkways and not the hood as I was doing before.

Thanks mate. These don't have the the 4 tabs so there must be something else stopping it. I'll have to give it a closer inspection and see what comes of it

 

[tootnkumin]

I've just taken the body off the GP35. All I had to do is take out the couplers and lift the body off. Was a bit tight at the back so didn't lift cleanly, but the reason for that was these locator "towers" front and back

They fit up into the body shape fairly closely at each end.

Actually I've just thought of something else, "I'll be baarck".

 

[tootnkumin]

OK. Genesis SD45T-2. To remove the body, take the couplers out then locate 2 screws that can be seen through the ends of the trucks next to the fuel tank and remove them, then lift off the body.

Maybe this is the same as yours.

Don't ask me what happened there, "I think we had a transporter malfunction, Scotty"

 

[gabby]

Thanks mate. I'll look at the options today and see what I come up with. I suspect that as you say it's just a snug fit

 

[gabby]

Well I got it. It was indeed just a very tight fit. Undid the couplers and had to riggle the body to release it from the chassis. Will look at the others now.

 

[tootnkumin]

Well I got it. It was indeed just a very tight fit. Undid the couplers and had to riggle the body to release it from the chassis. Will look at the others now.

Yes, I'm glad they've redesigned the DCC ready models, I hate squeezing things to get them apart.