Switching

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hd-fatboy

Member
Don't know what happened to this the first time, here it is again.

This is a plan I have for a 2x8x8 shelf layout. My benchwork is completed and want to get started on the track.

Let me know what ya think.
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Nice, looks like a big yard, but its a terminal railroad, so...

I don't have any constructive advice.
 

FoamersNW

The Chief
I like how the line is laid out. Lots of industries for traffic. How are you going to have cars enter/exit the layout? What railroads will you interchange with?
 

SpaceMouse

Fun Lover
I have the same question as Robert. What makes a switching layout a railroad is the presense of staging--unless that is what you planned your yard to be.

Staging makes the railroad open ended. The yard sorts the cars to and from the railroad and sends some of the cars to switch the sidings. Without the railroad (staging), your yard overpowers your switching.
 

hd-fatboy

Member
I have the same question as Robert. What makes a switching layout a railroad is the presense of staging--unless that is what you planned your yard to be.

Staging makes the railroad open ended. The yard sorts the cars to and from the railroad and sends some of the cars to switch the sidings. Without the railroad (staging), your yard overpowers your switching.
Here is the area I am working on:

http://terraserver-usa.com/image.aspx?T=4&S=10&Z=15&X=3721&Y=21417&W=2&qs=|st.+louis|mo|

Yes, I'll redo the yard, not thinking clearly Sunday. (2 macaws annoying me all day!)

The railroads are Union Pacific Railroad, Burlington Northern and Sante Fe Railway, CSX Transportation, Canadian National Railroad, and Norfolk Southern Corporation others older/fallen flag railroads that could be seen are,

Missouri Pacific Railway Company, the St. Louis, Iron Mountain and Southern Railway, Wabash, the Ohio and Mississippi Railway, the Louisville and Nashville Railroad, and the Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago and St. Louis Railway.
 

SpaceMouse

Fun Lover
Yes, I'll redo the yard, not thinking clearly Sunday. (2 macaws annoying me all day!)
I'm not by any means suggesting you reduce the yard, there's a lot of action to be had from it. What I'm suggesting is you increase the traffic with staging to justify it.

This article is pretty basic and the examples are for layouts bigger than yours, but the truth is, the smaller the layout, the more critical staging is.

"What is Staging and Why do I need it?"

Staging is what will make your yard a true interchange. If you can find it, Iain Rice's Small, Smart and Practical Track Plans is great for creating staging for small spaces.

BTW, the layout you've drawn is super. Let's try to find a way to generate traffic for it,
 

SpaceMouse

Fun Lover
If you were to make the yard section 30" wide instead of 24" and put a backdrop at 24", you could get 3-4 nice staging tracks behind your yard. If you email me the the XtrkCAD file I'll show you what I mean. It will change your layout very little.

spacemouse@vitaconnect.com.
 
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FoamersNW

The Chief
I agree with Chip - Its a well thought out layout plan, but you want to have one that you wont get bored with after a few years. If you have the space, and extend the size of the module to accomodate a couple of hidden staging tracks I would think that you will be much happier in the long run.

The plan Im working on utilizes hidden staging to represent transfer runs to about 4 different railroads.

If you havent looked at the books by Ian Rice, they are a great reference. Already looking at a second plan by him for the Belfast & Moosehead Lake!
 

hd-fatboy

Member
No, actually I have to redo the yard because I have no AD track and no yard lead. Something similar to this.

SpaceMouse it's on the way.
 

JeffShultz

Stay off the tracks!
The only issue I have with the trackplan is the 3 tracks that do near perpendicular endings in the backdrop. They're a bit short - in that a normal sized boxcar will probably find itself extending past the industry it's sited at, blocking roads and whatnot. An extra 6 inches of depth - even 4 inches, will help that out immensely.
 

stokesda

My other car is a 4-8-4
[Edit: oops! I didn't notice this thread had a second page at first. Still, I'll leave my comments below for consideration. Not sure if you have the space to run the left end of the main into staging, but it would help with point #2 below.]

On the revised drawing, it looks like your A/D track will barely fit four cars w/o fouling the mainline or the switcher access. You can do two things to have longer trains on the A/D track:

1. Shift the switcher access to the A/D track (I don't know what the term is) further to the right by "cheating" on the yard ladder angle. In other words, if you're using #6 turnouts on the yard, build the ladder on a #5 angle using short pieces of ever-so-slightly curved track between the turnouts. This will shift the turnout leading to the A/D track a little to the right and allow more car space on the A/D track.

2. Move the turnout going from the main to the A/D track further to the left to squeeze a bit more room on the A/D track. You could even model the A/D track going straight off the layout parallel to the main - the turnout would be modeled off-scene in staging (or not modeled, but assumed to be there).
 
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hd-fatboy

Member
I wanted to figure out how to put track down in the street so I started a small project to see how well it would look.

I cut out a piece of picture frame. Glued some flex track down.

The brick design I am using is from Plastruct HO scale brick (remember I'm doing N scale) works out great.

Using .60 streyne inside the track and the brick, the level is just right.

I did not paint under the plastic but know now that you should so you don't see the white.

I still have to weather the brick and area.
 
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hd-fatboy

Member
Went to the local hobby supply store (Michaels) and found this neat item. 'Sophisticated Finishes' it is a 2 step process for creating rust. Gave it a try & this is the best for making things look like rust! I cannot get the cammera to focus close enough on the 2nd picture for the rust view.

They also have a patina finish for that old copper look.

The other product I have been using for my roofs is from plasti-kote called Fleck STONE. Spray it on wait for it to dry & then add paint, very realistic looking tarred roof.

Also trying it out as a road.

2 Products that are worth checking out.
 

hd-fatboy

Member
I finished up my test project of track & bricks in the road. I should have posted a revised plan this week also.

Let ,me know what ya think.
 

hd-fatboy

Member
Have a new updated version of the track plan. Added in an industry and gave them all names.

This pretty much follows how the actual prototype is set up. A couple of the industries are out of place but they are only a couple of streets down the line, I didn't think that would detract from operations.
 




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