Switching Layout Roadbed Question.


nwdrummer379

Class of '11
This is a question for anyone else with a switching layout, I just laid all of my track and as I started laying down the foam track bed I thought, do I even need it? My base is homasote which is already a sound deadening material. I'm just not sure if I want that raised roadbed look since I don't have a mainline. Another thing, the track nails barely do the job of holding the track down while the road bed is under it.

-Jeff


AC&L by Green1493, on Flickr
 
I just laid all of my track and as I started laying down the foam track bed I thought, do I even need it?

-Jeff

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ohio_motor_transit_photos/8263934721/
The short answer is....NO. Not if you don't think you need it......or don't want it. In the last year since I first got interested in model trains.....and started watching very closely how different people use so many different styles, techniques, and materials on their train layouts.....I've now seen it done almost every possible way imaginable. Whatever works.....within the limits of common sense.

Looks like you're in the basement and noise won't likely be an issue. I'm using N scale.....and finally decided to use 1/16 inch cork under my track. I like the slightly raised effect it gives.

At lowes I got a two foot by four foot sheet of cork for $10. I can cut it into one inch wide strips.....and that gives me 96 feet of roadbed......or a bit less since some of it will be curved. Cork this thin doesn't absorb noise all that well.....but it's only N scale.....and noise is not an issue in my situation anyway. But I've seen track laid without roadbed on homasote, cellotex, and plywood. And in real life......like you said.......the raised roadbed is generally more on the main lines than in a switchyard.

Mike
 
I'm going to experiment with small dabs of clear silicone caulk to hold track and roadbed to my freshly built benches. My intention in the beginning, is to use just small enough amounts of this adhesive to hold, yet be able to remove and make changes if needed....until I'm sure I like the trackplan.....then make it more secure and permanent. You can't see little clear dabs....and the silicone can be removed easier than some kinds of caulk......I hope anyway.


Mike
 
If you're going to use caulk as an adhesive with the intention of possibly redoing the trackwork, the last thing I would use is silicone. Silicone is an excellent adhesive but is too strong if you ever intend to remove and reuse your track. You'll never be able to remove the silicone from the ties, if you can get the track up without destroying it. Plus, almost nothing else will stick to silicone after it has cured.

Your best bet is to use regular latex caulk. It will adhere the track but will still allow removal, cleanup and reuse.
 
Your best bet is to use regular latex caulk. It will adhere the track but will still allow removal, cleanup and reuse.
Your probably right on Bob. I guess I was just thinking about the silicone being clear and kind of invisible. Haven't used it on anything in a long while.....and I guess it wouldn't be as easy to remove. I have the short atlas track nails....might test them out on a small section. Maybe latex is indeed the way to go. Thanks for your input!


Mike
 
Not to mention the mess that can be created with silicone. You'll need a solvent such as acetone to use for cleanup. Acetone is very flammable and dissolves many plastics, especially foam, and has strong fumes.

Latex, however, can be cleaned with soap and water.
 
Caulk works really good for securing track

I would also suggest using hot glue...
I prefer using hot glue over caulk as long as your using a dual temp hot glue .
Its fast, very efficient, if you need to remove track for any reason it pulls up easily with a knife.

It also works awesome for securing road bed of any material. Gluing to foam you need to use the low temp setting.

Its my preferred method because it get you running trains the fastest!
 
the track nails barely do the job of holding the track down while the road bed is under it.

Let's forget I even mentioned that. This is not a permanent layout and will be moved in a year or less. That's why track nails are my choice. Thanks for your input on the roadbed question Mike. Much appreciated.
 
Let's forget I even mentioned that. This is not a permanent layout and will be moved in a year or less. That's why track nails are my choice. Thanks for your input on the roadbed question Mike. Much appreciated.

Yes we know it's your choice. But you asked for opinions and wanted some feedback what to use. We meerly gave you suggestions what to use.

Whats wrong with that? Calm down their buddy....
 
I agree with motley. We gave you opinions since you asked a question. Otherwise we wouldnt have gave you our opinions if you didnt ask a question.

I will go back to my hot glue suggestion.
I think since your taking the track down in a year or so i suggest even more so just a small dab of hot glue on a few outside ties of the track here and there is all one would need to secure the track temporary. The track can easily be removed with a slight cut of your knife, versus pounding in nails then trying to remove nails.
 
I have used track nails on many layouts. They work great and you can pull them out and make changes easily. I even use the same nails to lay down the cork easy to pull up and move. When you are satisfied with your layout you then ballast the track and once dry go back and take the nails out.

Steve
 
I'm currently laying down the track on my switching layout as well! I'm actually using a combination of both Aileen's Tacky Glue and track nails.

The nails are extremely helpful with the flex track and hold it in place while small dabs of glue ensure that it doesn't bow up from base. Where the track lays on roadbed it is not as important to use the glue; but when I'm laying directly on the foam base (the yard area) I want the track to be solid with the base. This is in order to reduce the noise from the train that the roadbed would otherwise absorb.

I don't use much glue though! I use small dots of glue, spaced every 6-8 ties or so. It comes up very easily and as Steve said, you can re-use the nails and creates very solid track. :D
 
After a while away from the rails, we finally have the time again to work on the layout and we too are just about to lay track. Is there any particular brand of latex caulk that is recommended? I think DAP was mentioned before or something like that, though I may have gotten that mixed up. Also, does anybody use the woodland scenics roadbed? We were thinking of using elmers white glue to put that down. Any suggestions are appreciated
 
Can you get away with using hot glue to mount track to the track bed?

Matthew

Hi, it's best to use cheap ol latex caulk at your favorite home depot. Get the stuff thats grey, so it matches your ballast color.

Just spread a thin layer of caulk down on the roadbed, and press the track down into it. And add some soup cans on the track until it dries. This is exactly what I do.
 
Hi, it's best to use cheap ol latex caulk at your favorite home depot. Get the stuff thats grey, so it matches your ballast color.

Just spread a thin layer of caulk down on the roadbed, and press the track down into it. And add some soup cans on the track until it dries. This is exactly what I do.

Thanks for the reply, once you use the gray caulking I assume the mating of the track to the track bed is permanent?

Matthew
 



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