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I have found a web site that shows a 4700 uf capacitor installed to prevent sound reset in the soundtraxx decoder.
I have two ALCOs using the DSD-AT100LC decoder that have this problem. Has anyone added this capacitor yet, and if so, how did it work for you? I don't want to do all that work if there isn't a signifcant improvement.
Larry, is this the link you are talking about? It might very well work for you, but as for me, I try to avoid d-i-y electronics work like the plague, especially when it may void the warranty. The regular [non-plugNplay] decoder installs were torture enough for me.
The Tsunami for Diesel comes with a stay-alive cap installed, but this introduces its own bizarre behavior, as shown in this video of a worst-case scenario. The loco suddenly jumps ahead at full throttle, seemingly out of control (but you just have to manually bring it back down to normal speed).
In a nutshell: A SAC helps, but it's not a panacea.
Hummm, both are scary... I'd hate to loose sound, but hate it even more when it jumps. I'd think jumping is better, plus you'd be able to find out where your layout has electrical problems!
I had a look at that video, Ken. Is that rare ? On my layout, that could be disastrous ! Especially if my 10 year old grand niece is at the controls !
This is a vexing problem with Soundtraxx, Josh. The slightest loss of signal...like a micro second, causes the sound to reset but the loco kepts moving. I am thinking of a safer way to fix this problem. I will share it with you soon. By the way...it's my RS1's that are soundtraxx.
hmm... I have never had a burp with my TSU-1000 heavy steam? only issues I have had is that if the layout section that im in has a quick short the engine will continue to run but the sound goes off and acts as if the loco is staring from a stop. at this point the timing and speed acc/dec is all out of wack
I have a Alco TSU-1000 but I had only ran it a few mins before I lost forward functions and had to send it in for warrenty work
yes. I tried all the tricks in the book and still no responce. At first I wired it up for a test before I went cutting the wires. All was good with the test. Then I cut the wires to the lenght I needed them shrink wraped the solder and placed it on the layout. It was running great for 10 mins then I saw the headlight flashing when it stopped running in Forward? I checked the wireing and compaired with a simmilar loco and all was good? It just stopped running forward? It smelled like it was fried?
yes. I tried all the tricks in the book and still no responce. At first I wired it up for a test before I went cutting the wires. All was good with the test. Then I cut the wires to the lenght I needed them shrink wraped the solder and placed it on the layout. It was running great for 10 mins then I saw the headlight flashing when it stopped running in Forward? I checked the wireing and compaired with a simmilar loco and all was good? It just stopped running forward? It smelled like it was fried?
This is the only problem I have encountered with my heavy steam and no problems with my light and light timber. Doesn't happened often and it acts more like a default but easily reset by removing power from the loco as you did.
MY PROBLEM____ The sound resets on my RS-1 if it loses contact for a split second. My RS-1 has 8 wheel pickup, right...so if I double head two RS-1s ( Which I like to do ), the problem will still happen because I still have only 8 wheel pickup and now this reset problem is happening to two locos instead of one
MY SOLUTION_____MMmmm...okay this is what I am thinking. I'm going to take the motor, flywheels and worm assemblies out of one of my RS-1 I'm going to install a 150 ohm resistor across the motor connections on the circuit board. Im going to install, " two pin micro connectors " from Miniatronics. This will connect the track pickup wires on one loco with the track pickup wire in the other. I will program this loco with the same address as the other. Here are my preceived advantages:
1... 16 wheel pickup
2... no need to set up cab for double heading
3... room for a bigger speaker.
4.... big openning in frame bottom for sound
5 .... mini plug easily undone to run one ALCO only.
that sounds like a good idea to me. Thinking out side the box are ya?... I like that. at the club I like to doublehead both engines with the same address. this way when we have a member that shorts the layout and it glitches badly I dont louse the consist address.
