Soldering track on a turn


NYC_George

NYC_George

Well-Known Member
I uploaded some photos on one method I use when soldering on turns. Soldering on straight track is a breeze, but turns present a problem. When I laid the track on my horse shoe turn I soldered three pieces of flex track together in a straight position and then turned it to fit the turn. I use a different method when soldering on a normal turn. The photos below show the routine. I use a old Sears soldering gun with the wide tip bent at an angle. I put the tip right on the rail joiner and move it back and fourth for about 10 seconds. Then I touch the solder to the gun tip. If it starts to flow I just move the solder gun back a forth a few times to smooth out the solder. Then I take my nail punch turn it upside down and press on the join slightly to make sure one rail isn't higher than the other. The trouble is you have only 3 seconds to do this. Putting the gun down so it doesn't burn you and then grabbing the punch is not all that easy. If I'm to late I just reheat the join and press down on it with the punch. This is only necessary if one rail is higher than the other.
Remember the thread I posted about anything worth while takes time and patience. I don't try to rush when doing turns. I take my time and get every thing right other wise they'll be derailments. I use a template to make sure ever thing stays in position while soldering. The turn in the photo isn't that hard to do. It's small. It's just to show you my method. This new main makes a big turn over by the helix. I'll use this method there. If the track tries to pull away from the template I'll put some temporary track nails in place to hold it into position. The last photos shows a body filler scraper. I use this to smooth down the road bed before laying the track. That's the good thing about using cord roadbed. You can easily take down any defect in the bench work. I'll try to make a video soldering some straight track together so you get the idea. One more thing. I'll stain the wooden ties in the last photo and glue them in place. You won't even notice them when you add the ballast.

NYC_George
 
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Hello NYC George

I've worked in electronics both as a hobby and as a professtion since the 1950's. In all those years I've must have soldered ten million connections from micro ICs to grounding plates in 50,000 watt transmitters. Your soldering method is sound but let me point out something your are doing that makes it harder then it should be. First get rid of the monster gun ! Get yourself a soldering iron of about 60 watts and some extra tips. It's all the heat you need for track soldering. Get a good stand for your iron. Get one with a weighted base. Keep the iron next to your work. Use a good grade of solder. Solder made for the electronics industry. Make sure your track is clean at the point you are soldering. Keep the tip of your iron clean. To do this, have a small sponge that is damp with water next to your iron. Wipe the tip of the iron on the sponge after you solder. Do this with fast strokes and the tip will stay shinny and clean. If the tip is hot and your track is clean, you will flow solder so fast and easy that you will be done in no time. :)

Larry the foundry guy
 
The right soldering tools

Hi Larry
Yea I know I work with steam fitters. They can solder rings around me. It takes me about 20 seconds to solder a straight join. I don't think I can improve on that time. I use the wide tip because it's almost the same length as a rail joiner. About 10 seconds and a few movements back and fourth across the joiner and it ready for solder. What I should do is make sure the rail can't move up and down to eliminate having to turn my nail punch upside down and press down on the two rails to make sure their even. I know your suggestions may be the right thing to do but I've been using the same soldering gun for 11 years so I think I'll stay with it. I solder everything with it, track, decoders, tortoise's, no water pipes though that's a whole other story. I think I've changed 50% of the pipes in this house. Thanks for trying to help though.

NYC_George
 
Ok what happens if you accidently get solder on top of the rails? HAHA don't ask how I did that. Its tricky stuff.
I tried taking a flat head to scrap a little off.
Can you sand paper on top the rails?
 
hotwinger said:
Ok what happens if you accidently get solder on top of the rails? HAHA don't ask how I did that. Its tricky stuff.
I tried taking a flat head to scrap a little off.
Can you sand paper on top the rails?
Click to expand...

No problem Just get a damp rag or paper towel. Heat the rail until the solder melts then quickly wip it with the rag. Be careful not to melt the ties.

You could also use a fine flat file and carefully remove it:)
 
I am with Bread&steel I prefer a soldering iron over a gun. It is hot when you put it on and melts instantly. I also put some plumbing flux inside the rail joiner before slide the rails together. Really makes and nice solder joint and doesnt take near the heat to get a good flow.
 
Rosin core solder

As long as the plumbing flux is the non acid type. If it's electrical you want to use rosin core solder.

NYC_George
 
I worked for an electronics company and remember the rework girls in the repair department used something I believed they called silver solder. Does that ring a bell to anybody? Would that be overkill to use it on track?
 
SF 4th District said:
I worked for an electronics company and remember the rework girls in the repair department used something I believed they called silver solder. Does that ring a bell to anybody? Would that be overkill to use it on track?
Click to expand...

Yes, it does. Very expensive, but if your railroad is going to be installed in a jet fighter then it's worth the price....however....overkill is the word :D
 
Lead, tin and silver solder

Well at home on the copper plumbing I found that 95% tin solder seems to work the best. I didn't have any luck with the tin solder on my railroad though, silver rosin core solder at least for me works the best. I think it costs about $3.00 a tube at Home Depot. In any case if you use acid core. The acid will eat away at the join over time. I'm not the type to get slighted or mad at anyone's comments. I just thought I'd do a thread on the methods I use when soldering on a turn. If you want to use lead, tin or acid flux that's totally up to the person doing the soldering.

NYC_George
 
I got a roll of RadioShack.022 RosinCore SilverBearingSolder awhile back is way more than I needed but wasnt that much.

The flux I am using doesnt say it is acid but doesnt say it isnt. I know it cleans it up well when I heat it up. Solder flows good.

Has worked for 4 years so far without problems. Guess if it is acid I have alot of cursing to do and will have to remember my line of "remember to have fun" darnit.

Thanks for all the posts I got good tips here from all.

Good Luck and remember to have fun!!
 
Acid and electrical current

Hi Fun Valley Line
Plumbing flux usually has acid in it to help clean the copper. There's no current running through the pipes so it's ok. The problem using it on track is the electrical current mixed with the acid corrodes the solder. Some thing like car battery poles. It will take a long time for this to happen, but if you buy the electrical rosin core solder whether it be tin or silver based you'll have no problems later. Radio Shack doesn't seem to sell it though. You can buy it at Home Depot in the tool section of the store.

NYC_George
 
Thank you. I guess I will deal with flux issues as they arrive. Fortunately I have only used it in some trouble spots. Gee I love cleaning battery posts!! NOT!!!

The Radio Shack Solder I got is High Tech Rosin Core Silver Bearing Solder 64-013 E dia .022 62/36/2 formula.

Is that what I want? Thanks in advance.
 
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