soldering brass

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dougcnup

Member
REcently bought 10 Andersley's DOD flat cars. I have never build a brass kit before. And recommendations or advice from anyone? what kinda solder to you use? soldering iron? Any help will be grateful

Thank you
Doug
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Someone should be able to chime in, but as for me, I used CA when I built my 53' spine.

Any chance you'd sell me a flat? I missed out on the last order by a day.
 

dougcnup

Member
Sorry, planning on making a military train with M1's, Bradleys, Hummers, trucks, HEMITT's... Just gotta start looking on ebay and train shows for these since ROCO is no longer in Walthers catalog.
 

rlundy90

Armchair Engineer
Unless you happen to be lucky enough to have a resistance soldering outfit you will be much safer using CA as Josh has mentioned.Without resistance type equipment you need too much heat which can make solder flow where it is not wanted or worse, it can distort the parts. Ron
 

Cjcrescent

Master Mechanic
Sounds like you're not very experienced soldering, and with that I have to agree with rlundy and Josh.

CA, 5-minute expoxy, cyano-epoxy will all allow you to assemble the kit with stellar results, and this is the way to go, esp. if you have no soldering experience of any kind.
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
Sorry, planning on making a military train with M1's, Bradleys, Hummers, trucks, HEMITT's... Just gotta start looking on ebay and train shows for these since ROCO is no longer in Walthers catalog.
Trident, check Trident, a tad more expensive, but much nicer in my eye. I just got 2 M1A1's an AAV7 & 3 LAV25's on eBay for $40.

The best part about CA, if you have a good clamping system, you can use the gap filling, insta-cure stuff (5-15sec) for the side sills. I held mine by hand (trust me, bad idea) and then ran it along the inside gap. It worked wonders. I've even dropped them a few times (on accident) and they CA still holds.
 

dougcnup

Member
Thanks for the info, gonna use either CA or 5 minute exopy.

I'll have to look for Trident, thanks alot for the heads up. My soldering experince is mostly hard wiring my loco's and decoders. what did you use to form your parts? I seen at my local harbor frieght store have a small press for $28 thinking of using that. think be easier

Doug
 

jbaakko

Diesel Detail Freak
I'd either suggest getting a wide grip (8" +) desk top clamp, or a smooth press of some sort. Micro Mark has a forming table, but I'm unsure as to if it can handle the thickness of the AC Models/Andersley sheets.

I myself used a 6" grip bench top clamp, with two 1/4" strips of steel bar added to the inside, because mine is not a smooth faced clamp. It worked ok, though next time I'll find a different way, that is whenever someone buys the line and re-releases.
 

Grande Guy

grande guy
I'd either suggest getting a wide grip (8" +) desk top clamp, or a smooth press of some sort. Micro Mark has a forming table, but I'm unsure as to if it can handle the thickness of the AC Models/Andersley sheets.

I myself used a 6" grip bench top clamp, with two 1/4" strips of steel bar added to the inside, because mine is not a smooth faced clamp. It worked ok, though next time I'll find a different way, that is whenever someone buys the line and re-releases.
Josh,

I am not picturing this clamp in my mind. Gotta picture? I have a set of each of Alans spine cars to build. Guess I will CA them as well. I used a regular solder pencil for my Custom Finishing Burro crane brass boom with good results but those long seams on the Spine cars are a little scary.:)
 




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