solder leads to the trucks

[bristolman]

when i get the nerve up going to put a decoder in bachmann spectrum dash 8 loco . would you solder leads to the trucks ?
mike

 

[wheeler1963]

Mike, for the best electrical pick up possible, yes I would. Use a small/flexible gauge wire so it doesn't derail your trucks.

 

[bristolman]

size

what wire size would you use ?
mike

 

[wheeler1963]

Mike, I'd use a 24 gauge or higher braided wire similar to these.

 

[bristolman]

thanks

thank you for the help , still a little nervous about doing this but what the heck ,bought the engine knowing id have to put a decoder in . just have to pay attention to what i am doing. thanks again for the guidance . has anyone on the forum done a spectrum dcc install ?
mike

 

[jdetray]

Hi Mike -

For best results, you want extremely flexible wire, because wire soldered to trucks will be subjected to constant movement and vibration. Stranded wire with a large number of very fine strands is the most flexible.

Something like 28 gauge with 44 strands would be good. North West Short Line has it in multiple colors. Be sure to get the 44-strand wire, not the 7-strand sold on the same page.

- Jeff

 

[RexHea]

Mike, I'm not sure what the Dash 8 has but I just installed a couple of Titan decoders in two Bachmann Specs H16's. With them, each side of the truck has a curved piece of metal that makes contact with one side of the separated frame. Cut the curved part off flush with the truck. Then you need to take your hobby knife and scrap a shiny surface (clean free of oil/grease) on a small area to allow your solder to bond easily. Put a small screwdriver under the metal to slightly lift the metal off the plastic (prevent melting the plastic). I like to put a dab of solder on this area and then solder my tinned 28awg wire to this. Almost forgot: remove the bottom cover of the truck to get easier access.

 

[bristolman]

saw something that might be easier than truck soldering

i read a post where someone else drilled and tapped holes at the top of the 2 frame halves , then they soldered the red and black leads to screws ( frame halves are insulated from each other anyway . i thought that might be a little easier than running leads all the way from the trucks .

 

[jdetray]

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the whole reason for running wires all the way from the trucks to bypass the not so reliable truck-to-frame connection?

- Jeff

 

[bristolman]

i guess i thought that the copper wipers ( that you cut or tape ) are the real culprit to bad pick up and the drilling and tapping would provide a more reliable connection ?
mike

 

[RexHea]

Jeff has it right; the curved metal piece making contact with the frame is just another potential problem. You have to connect the decoder wires somewhere, why not eliminate the frame problem by going straight to the pickups. Don't try to just tape the curve pieces as this could easily obstruct movement and will eventually wear through. Clip the things off....they won't be needed. The pickup metal takes solders easily and shouldn't be any problem for you. Using small stranded wire will be plenty flexible for the truck movement...just have a bit of slack (bend) above the truck. Don't forget: (If like H16) you have to clip the motor frame contacts as well and solder the decoder motor wires to those terminals. Still easy to do.